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We received an email from Chuck on SV Jacaranda regarding new and not so great changes for those cruising to French Polynesia. We’ve copied his email in its entirety here. This is information you definitely need if you’re headed that way. Sure glad we made it through there when we did.

If you have questions, Chuck’s information is at the bottom of this post.

The French Polynesia paradise is changing rapidly.  There are a number of locations with anchoring restrictions either already put in place or going to be put in place very soon. The anchoring restrictions are not the only thing happening regarding Yachties in FP.

The French Polynesia Yachting Association (AVP) is a group located in FP trying to help resolve these issues.  See additional information at the end of this post.

Press release from the AVP (Association des Voiliers en Polynesie)
–       Association of Sailboats in Polynesia –

The AVP is concerned about a recent evolution towards restricting the conditions of stay of sailboats in French Polynesia.

For the last few months, one has witnessed a whole series of constraints, prohibitions, even violent actions towards the sailing community:

–        In Bora Bora, total prohibition to anchor, even on sandy grounds (sole available areas in green on the chart below). Obligation to take a mooring for 3000 xpf/night, without any guarantee the mooring is safe, as proven in the case of catamaran “Archer” which broke its lines, suffered considerable damage as did the pontoon of the Pearl Beach Hotel it ended up against. The boat’s insurance had to cover these damages, but the moorings concession holder (“BBMS”) refuses to answer the boat’s insurance queries, and notably confirm whether he is insured or not. (as of 11/11/2019).

–       In Raiatea, several yachts were insulted, menaced, and in at least one instance attacked in the Miri Miri area. One of the catamarans (“Tao”) had its anchor line cut – while the owner of the yacht was filming the deeds. A police report was filed, but was not followed up by the Attorney General (as of 11/11/2019). The DPAM (Maritime Affairs Department has informed the AVP, without showing any legal documents to that effect, that in fact anchoring was illegal throughout Polynesia and that regulations were being drafted to confirm these prohibitions wherever required.

–       In Moorea, a “PGEM” will shortly be put in place (General plan for the maritime area):

o     Prohibition to anchor outside area defined by the PGEM.

o     Prohibition to exceed the quotas allocated to each area.

o     83 boats maximum allowed over the entire Moorea lagoon.

o     50% of these allowed anchorages will be well inside the bays (Cook and Oponohu) in 25 to 35m of water.

o     Most allowed areas are on the Northern side of the island, where the sandy areas are the smallest and where hence the risk of damaging flora and fauna are the highest and where the concentration of housing and touristic activities are highest.

o     48 hours maximum allowed in any one location.

o     Only 13 boats will be allowed on the Eastern side of the island, the only one likely to be accessible reasonably by sailboats coming from Tahiti for the limited 48h allowed. Moorea has over 50 resident sailboats on this side of the island, and Tahiti over 250 resident sailboats. These areas will be used by the sailboats from marina Vaiare in Moorea for their week-end outings.

o     These quotas will be reviewed annually unilaterally by the commission.

–        In Tahiti, the Taina area is due to be “evacuated”. Some 63 boats were there on November 4th, more than 80 in high season. Some are wrecks, but most are in perfect state, and are either transient boats, awaiting spare parts or on provisioning runs or boats parked there more permanently. This technical stop is absolutely indispensable for all boats in transit after a long passage. Taina is home to a marina (full), a fixed mooring field (full) and an area of tolerated anchorage, which now is being cleared.

–        The minister in charge of this issue proposes to relocate some of these boats to Taravao (on the Southern end of Tahiti, some 40 miles away!), perhaps in a new marina that may be built a few years down the road (!), and meanwhile in zones P2 to P5 below in areas without landing facilities, and in any case catering to less than 60% of the boats concerned.

o      P3,P4 and P5: No landing possibilities at all, less than 1.5m depth and already occupied by small crafts used as party boats.

o      P2: Vaitupa Bay, already saturated as shown in the satellite picture below.

The increase in the number of yachts since the rules of stay were changed 5 years ago has led to some degree of rejection from the local population. Some elected members of Parliament have indicated their intention to legiferate in order to prohibit the lagoon on the Southern side of Tahiti and thereby avoid the migration of boats towards this area, quite in opposition of what the Minister indicated. 

All existing infrastructure of the territory is saturated: Marina Taina, Marina Papeete, Marina Apooiti in Raiatea, , Yacht Club in Tahiti, Marina Vaiare in Moorea, Taravao, Raiatea mooring fields all full and will not be able to receive the yachts being removed following the prohibition to anchor.

The AVP points to the fact that the nautical tourism has been earmarked as a strategic component in the economic development of French Polynesia, towards which it contributes over 1.5 billion CFP today.

Aiming at increasing this contribution further, the government has chosen to increase the number of sailboats by lengthening the allowed duration of stay and by decreasing the import tax for boats to some 7% (June 2014).

However, against this increase, no new infrastructure has been put in place, leading to a significant concentration of yachts on anchor in all islands, and generating the relative rejection by locals today.

The AVP is a non profit organization founded and run by sailors, both transient and resident. Its charter includes:

–        Promote the image of the sailing community

–        Defend sailors rights

–        Educate sailors to all existing regulation and good practices, in particular environmental and cultural.

–        – Provide practical information regarding anchorages, infrastructure, suppliers and services to facilitate the stay of transient boats and the general well being of all concerned.

87 70 36 15 Arnaud JORDAN

Further information from Chuck
Currently AVP is the only group representing the yachties both French and International that is: 
1.  Attending the majority of meetings held by government agencies related to the sailing community.
2.  informing the general sailing folks that the meetings are taking place and where.
3. Summarizing the meeting and informing the sailing community.
4. They gather up all the incidents of issues in FP relating to the sailing community.
5.  They are also trying to gather any theft incidents, helping non french speakers submit a online police report and then helping follow up.
6.  The AVP have come up with a good practice charter and flag that will show the locals this boat has signed up to respect the lagoons, not pollute, etc etc.
7.  AVP has organized discounts with many marine vendors in Tahiti. Your membership card can pay for the membership in short order.

I could probably come up with more reasons to join if given more time.

In general AVP are the boots on the ground.  If not for AVP in many cases we would not have a clue what laws are being proposed and how they are being implemented.  Not speaking french we don’t listen to the radio or watch FP tv.

By having yachties join the number of boats they represent will gain more leverage in the talks to senior ministers.

HOW CAN YOU HELP WITH THE ISSUES IN FRENCH POLYNESIA – JOIN AVP >> For less than $17US your membership makes a difference.

How to join AVP

Additional write up by Totem

Safe Sailing


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The Statistics

Well, as you know we made it here to New Zealand. Here’s a quick look at the statistics for our 2018 Journey.

We left Banderas Bay, México on March 25th, 2018 and traveled just over 3100 NM to Hiva Oa, Marquesas in French Polynesia arriving on April 19th, 2018. The entire trip took 25 days.

Countries Visited: 6

  • French Polynesia
  • Cook Islands
  • American Samoa
  • Niue
  • Tonga
  • New Zealand

Islands Visited: 28

  • Hiva Oa, Marquesas
  • Tahuata, Marquesas
  • Fatu Hiva, Marquesas
  • Nuka Hiva, Marquesas
  • Kauehi, Tuamotus
  • Fakarava, Tuamotus
  • Toau, Tuamotus
  • Apataki, Tuamotus
  • Rangiroa, Tuamotus
  • Tahiti, Society Islands
  • Moorea, Society Islands
  • Huahine, Society Islands
  • Bora Bora, Society Islands
  • Maupiti, Society Islands
  • Suwarrow, Cook Islands
  • Pago Pago, American Samoa
  • Alofi, Niue
  • Neiafu, Tonga
  • Kapa Island, Tonga
  • Nuapapu Island, Tonga
  • Lape Island, Tonga
  • Mounu, Tonga
  • Lifuka, Tonga
  • Ouleva, Tonga
  • Nomuki Iki, Tonga
  • Nuku’alofa, Tonga
  • Pangaimotu, Tonga
  • Whangarei, North Island, New Zealand

Languages Spoken: 7

  • French
  • Marquesan
  • Tahitian
  • Niuean
  • Tongan
  • Samoan
  • Māori

Total Miles Traveled from Banderas Bay, México to Whangarei, New Zealand

7556 NM!

Yes, it was a whirlwind year where many great memories and friends were made! Can’t wait to see what awaits us in 2019.


Jilly & Dan

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Magnificent Maupiti!

Maupiti MountainJust about 25 miles west of Bora Bora is a magnificent island named Maupiti. It’s a small coral atoll with a volcanic island rising from the center of it. There’s approximately 1,200 people that live on the just over 4 square miles of land. They say entering the passage can be tricky as it’s very narrow and there’s lots of bommies on either side of the pass. Fortunately for us we found it to be a pretty easy passage into the atoll.

Once inside we were literally in awe of the beauty surrounding us. There is no doubt in our minds that this is the single most beautiful place we have visited in all of French Polynesia! We were looking forward to spending a week or so here before moving on toward the Cook Islands.

For the first few days we anchored down near the main village. It was close to shore and stores etc… Some fellow cruisers whom we had met at the Gendarmes office in Bora Bora happened to be staying here as well. Our first night in the anchorage they had us over for cocktails and dinner. Rob & Lauren of SV Southern Comfort are super people and we really enjoyed getting to know them.

Yes…That’s a small waterspout up there but nothing too concerning for us.

While staying in the “village” anchorage we went into town and rented bicycles to explored the island. We actually rode around the entire island. Most of the road was flat as can be but there was one section that went almost straight up a large hill. Needless to say these two old people walked our bikes up the hill. It was worth the walk in the hot sun as the views we experienced from the top were nothing short of spectacular! And, the ride down was refreshing. And one day we were sitting in the cockpit when we saw a dog swimming out into the middle of the anchorage! Apparently his family left on their boat and he wanted to go too. Dan got in the dinghy, at Jilly’s urging, to try and get the dog but the dog wasn’t having any part of it. He growled at Dan so Dan stayed with him until he reached the shore. That dog swam about a half a mile from the shore to the sandbar where his family was playing on the beach. Guessing this wasn’t the first time he did this!

After a couple of days we headed out to the south anchorage which was like being in heaven. The water is so clear and you are near the edge of the reef so you get these stunning sunsets and views of the waves crashing over the reef into the atoll. We saw a huge manta ray swimming in the shallows.

We took the dink and went exploring one day. Another day we went out to one of the beaches where Dan flew the kite one of his daughters bought him as a birthday gift a few years ago. And of course Jilly took the opportunity to enjoy a little float time on the Royal Swan in the crystal clear waters too.

We spent almost a week here before we planned to leave for Suwarrow in the Cook Islands. On the morning of our departure Dan started the water maker for a bit. Soon he realized we had a leak in the pressurized end cap. Water was literally spraying everywhere. Well now, this is not going to be fun.

Mau WatermakerHe got on the satellite phone and called a few places trying to figure out a temporary fix. Of course we had no internet here so we couldn’t do our normal research. We did call on Jilly’s brother, Brad, to see what he could find on the internet. After our first fix was a complete failure, between Dan & Brad they were able to come up with a solution that worked. Of course this delayed us several days which meant we needed to re-provision before taking off to the Cook Islands. Oh, and we needed internet so we could order the parts we needed and get them on the way to American Samoa. So, we headed back to Bora Bora where we got provisions and ordered our parts.

Within a few days of our arrival back in Bora Bora, the proper weather window opened and we set sail on the six day passage to Suwarrow in the Cook Islands.

Until Next Time,

Jilly & Dan