New Zealand

Fatu Hiva … Bay Of Virgins

We had two marvelous days at Tahuata but it’s time to move on. With a 90 day visa and so many amazing places to visit you don’t get a chance to spend much time in any one place. Today we are off to see the most photographed island in the Marquesas … Fatu Hiva and the Bay of Virgins. Originally it was called the Bay of Penises because the rock formations resemble phallic symbols. Apparently when the Christians came to the island many, many years ago they decided that Bay of Penises was inappropriate and the bay was renamed to something a bit more Christian like. We’ve also heard that the Christians were so offended by the penises on the tikis around the island that they broke them off. Hmmm…sounds a lot like people in America today. If you’re offended by something, rather than accept that it is different and ignore it, you just destroy it. Oh well, that’s another discussion for another time.
The forty-mile jaunt from Tahuata is all into the wind and swell. It is certainly not a comfortable ride by any stretch but it only takes us about eight hours and we are rewarded with one of the most beautiful sites we’ve seen since our arrival in the Marquesas. It seems that each place we visit is more beautiful than the last.
It’s about 1500 hours so the warm afternoon sun is casting a golden glow upon the mountains and the bay. There are fifteen other boats anchored in the bay. SV Nightide and SV Patience are here and we decide to drop anchor right between them. The place definitely lives up to its reputation for being a beautiful anchorage. The water is pretty clear but deep blue due to the black sand and it makes the perfect contrast to the golden shore.
With the anchor down we proceed with our traditional anchor down beer. After all, you can’t break a great tradition like that. As we are sitting in the cockpit enjoying our libations we receive a call on the radio from Ian of SV Nightide. He tells us that a couple of manta rays are heading our direction. I grab my camera and hop on deck. Not just a couple of them, but six are headed our direction. They aren’t quite as large as the one we saw in Tahuata but it is still a wonderful treat. Their large black wings glide gently through the clear blue water as the wing tips breach the surface from time to time. Their mouths are open wide to take in the plankton on which they feed. They are so majestic and graceful and I’m in heaven just watching them as they swim around the boat. We see a few other boaters in their dinks chasing down the rays so they can swim with them. No harm in that; it’s just that we’re not so sure about swimming in bays with black sand bottoms. We’ve been warned that it’s difficult to see sharks coming toward you even in clear water. This is the South Pacific and sharks are everywhere. Ed & Linda on SV One Fine Day had about a six footer swim along side their boat in Tahuata. We will be swimming in the bays but we’ll save that for the white sand bays. For today, we will just enjoy watching these majestic creatures from the deck of Dazzler. We haven’t even left the boat yet and something tells me I’m going to love this place!
Until next time…
Jilly

Marquesas, Tahuata

Tahuata … A Polynesian Paradise

Tahuata…Truly is a Polynesian paradise!

And we are now in heaven! We left Hiva Oa today. It was sad to leave the wonderful native people who have become our friends. Kaha the tattoo artist, Marc at Make Make, Sandra, our agent, and so many others but the fact is our visa clock is ticking and we must move on. We arrive at Tahuata after a short two hour passage across the very choppy channel. Tahuata is literally just across the way from Hiva Oa but the water is quite turned up and the winds are howling. They say this channel is known to be a bit difficult and it was but we were glad to be going “with” the swell instead of against it.

Now that we are here we see that THIS is exactly what we were thinking of when we thought of French Polynesia. The water is a beautiful, clear and light aqua in color. There’s a palm tree lined, pink sand beach at the bottom of the mountain and the waves are crashing on the black volcanic rock on either side of the bay. Best part….we are the only ones in this bay! Just one bay over at Hanamoenoa Bay there are at least a dozen boats anchored. Yes, the “sheep” have flocked to the bay that is mentioned in several cruiser guides but we chose to blaze our own trail and have been rewarded with absolute nirvana. We have chosen Ivaiva Iti Bay and are quite happy with our decision.

On the shore are several huts where the locals come to make copra. Copra is made from the coconut shells and left over coconut meat. They dry it on the large metal racks then crush it up. It is exported and used to make oils, lotions etc.

Today, however, the huts are closed up and we feel as if we are the only two people left on earth. It’s such a nice change from the crowded anchorage at Hiva Oa just seven miles north of us. Soooooo glad to be out of that anchorage and the chaos that surrounded it. I really hate to say that too because I do love the people and the village of Atuona. Unfortunately there are so many cruisers there who feel “entitled’ and who care so little about those around them that you just begin to feel cramped and crowded as if you are living back in a big, metropolitan city. That’s not why we are here. We love our lifestyle because we do not have to live in all of that chaos anymore. And so, we regretfully said, “Au revoir” to our friends and made our way here.

On the way here we had a huge manta ray swim past the boat. It was so big Dan thought it was a shark at first. The wingspan was well over six feet! We hear they swim in the bays in this area so we are hoping to get pics and video before we leave. We will stay here tonight and probably do some dink fishing tomorrow. Our plan is to stay two nights then head south to Fatu Hiva. That island is the most photographed of all in French Polynesian and is said to be amazing. Honestly, it will have to be pretty awesome to beat this place because right now, we are in HEAVEN!
Our friends, Ed & Linda of SV One Fine Day are in the anchorage next door so we head over to visit them and have a couple of cold ones. It is also a very beautiful anchorage but a bit more crowded and we are loving our little peace of heaven on the other side.

On our way back we toss a line in the water to see what we can catch. Within just a couple of minutes Dan has his first fish. We’re not exactly sure what it is but it appears to be some sort of snapper. Within a half hour or so we catch the snapper looking thing, a good size needlefish and a blue jack. We give them all back to the sea.

One thing you have to be very cautious of when dealing with the reef fish here is Ciguatera. This occurs often in tropical waters. Microscopic organisms containing ciguatoxin live on reefs. It is harmless to fish but not to humans. Eating fish that are poisoned with this can make humans extremely sick. A neurotoxin, ciguatoxin can cause nausea, tingling and cramping of limbs and can possibly even lead to death. They say people who live through Ciguatera poisoning will deal with its effects for the rest of their lives. We’ve been advised to talk to the locals to find out which lagoons and bays have it. We’ve decided we’ll stick to the pelagic fish like Tuna, Wahoo & Dorado. It’s the safer option.

So tonight we are having fresh tuna steaks on the grill. Fresh tuna is cheap here and we love it. When I say it’s cheap, let me explain. We bought it at the petrol station in Hiva Oa at the docks. Yes, I said we got it at the petrol station! They clean the tuna right there on the docks and sell it in the little store. It’s so cheap you won’t believe it…$5 USD per kilo! We cut it into nice thick steaks and grill it. Add a couple of fresh cut cucumbers or other veggies and some fresh French baguettes, also sold at the petrol station, and you have a perfect dinner.

Breakfast will be pamplemousse. Have I told you I’m addicted? Oh yes, I’m sure I have but it does bear repeating. If you are ever anywhere and they ask you if you’d like to try some pamplemousse, don’t hesitate, just answer, “Yes!” and then ask how many they have for you to take with you. I promise, you won’t be disappointed.

Well, what else is there to say right now? We are here at Tahuata, looking at the quintessential Polynesian beach. We are having a few brews, kicking back and enjoying all that God has blessed us with this day.

Thanks for checking in with us. Hope you are enjoying our posts as much as we are enjoying sharing them with you.

Cheers…until next time,
Jilly

To see more photographs our our trip to Tahuata click below.

https://atomic-temporary-123242177.wpcomstaging.com/color-photo-gallery-svdazzler/french-polynesia-svdazzler/marquesas-french-polynesia-svdazzler/tahuata-svdazzler/