Historical Sites & Deadly Fishing

Let me see if I can get this right here….

We were fishing about a mile from shore around Motuterahiki Island. It’s a small island that consists of nothing but jagged rock that rises a hundred or so feet above the surface of the ocean. We hear that familiar singing of the reel telling us that a fish has snatched onto the blue and silver Rapala lure we’ve been trolling behind our inflatable dinghy. 

Dan is reeling in our catch while mountainous waves crash onto the rocks sending white foam fifty feet into the air just a few meters from Sparkle.  Suddenly our dinghy motor stops. I turn to look over my shoulder and see nothing but rocks and sea foam racing closer as the huge waves push us toward this deadly island that sports nothing but sharp edges and signs of impending doom.

I scream out to Dan, “We’re getting too close to the rocks.” He frantically hands me the fishing pole and I begin reeling in the fish while he tries to start Sparkle’s motor. My stomach is churning as I think of the sharks that will soon be circling as the dinghy sinks. The jagged rocks will shred my limbs as I climb this mountain of death and the oozing blood will invite these savage beasts to their next feast..…ME!  I’ve made it over 15,000 NM across the sea and here I’m going to die just one mile from shore. This can’t be happening! Oh the horror of it all! Goodbye cruel world!

Just when I start to see my life pass before my eyes a miracle occurs. It is as if God himself has reached down from the heavens and gently pushed us around the island and away from the rocks. Before I know what’s happening God tosses that fish into our dinghy and we are saved from doom. THANK YOU LORD!

Jilly's favorite fishing pic!
And I helped!

Okay, okay….it really wasn’t all that bad but, in my defense, it is a bit nerve-racking when you are in an inflatable dinghy that is being pushed with a significant amount of force toward sharp rocks knowing that the motor isn’t working and you are now at the mercy of the sea. It’s even more unsettling when a wave swamps the back end of said inflatable dinghy and water is now up to our ankles in our new swimming pool where buckets and other items are floating all around.

I did, in fact, complain that my arms were getting tired because, well, they were. I’m not used to bringing in the big fish. I’m the photographer and videographer. The most I lift is a camera phone that weighs just a few ounces. And yes, I admit that once that fish was in the dinghy I called it an asshole. I’m making no apologies there. At the time my adrenaline was racing and I couldn’t think of a nicer word for a fish that brought so much chaos and fear into my life.

All that said it was an amazing experience catching our first Kingfish and what made it even more amazing is the fact that it was a true team effort. It took every bit of both of us to land him and I’m glad I got to be a part of it.  And, that I was still able to get some video of it too! Click Here!

Off To Marsden Cross

The beach at Marsden Cross
At the beach where Marsden Cross is located.

But this is just part of our day. The earlier part of the day, while not quite as adrenaline pumping, was brilliant as well. It was sunny with a great breeze and so we headed off to shore. You see we are anchored in Rangihoua Bay which is the location of Marsden Cross. What’s the significance you ask? Well, this is the official birthplace of New Zealand. 

The actual cross located on the shore is said to be the place where Samuel Marsden, a missionary, held the first Christian church service on Christmas Day 1814. With the blessings of  Chief Ruatara of the Ngāpuhi Māori tribe Marsden also established the first Pākehā (European) settlement. 

The beach where Marsden Cross is located
The view of Marsden Cross from our anchorage in Rangihoua Bay

Pākehā

An interesting note here is that while many today use the word Pākehā as a derogatory term against the Europeans or others who are not of Māori descent, we’ve learned that the word actually has a very beautiful meaning.

The Hongi. Pākehā
The Hongi Greeting

Pākehā references three words:

Pā – means to come in to contact, to make contact.

Ke – is related to the word ‘rerekē’ which means different, or unique.

Hā – is to share and exchange the breath. 

The whole reason Māori do a hongi – (the traditional greeting where they touch noses and foreheads) is to share and acknowledge the breath, the hā, that connects us all.

So putting those three words together we have:

“To come into contact with a unique essence of the hā”. This certainly is a much more beautiful interpretation of the word than what we’ve come to know. I think we’ll stick with this moving forward.

Back to Marsden Cross

Dan & Jilly at Marsden Cross

Enough language lessons for today. Let’s get back to our visit to the beach and Marsden Cross. We landed Sparkle on the shore and headed up to view the giant stone cross. There were two Kiwi folks standing there taking pictures so Dan asked if they wanted one together. They in turn took one of us and with all of this we ended up having a wonderful chat. We talked for about twenty minutes about everything from the history of the ground we were standing on to our sailing from Mexico. They turned out to be very kind folks and certainly embodied the “Kiwi way”. Of course that’s not unusual. We find that just about every Kiwi we’ve come into contact with is delightful and kind and completely welcoming.

After our chat we decided we’d walk up the trail to see what else we could find here. It turns out this is part of the Rangihoua Heritage Park. Along the trail there are signs that provide information about the the pā (settlement), the people and the history of the area. It is really quite fascinating and the scenery is truly out of this world! 

We couldn’t have picked a better day to visit here with bright sun, clear blue skies and cool breezes. Grape Ape had the time of his life running through the hills, climbing trees and just doing the all the things purple apes love to do.

Grape Ape insisted on having his photo taken with Dan.

My asthma often prevents me from taking really strenuous hikes so I was a bit concerned when Dan said we were going to hike to the top of the mountain. As it turns out it is a pretty easy hike with fairly gentle switchbacks. There’s one short section near the top that is tad steeper than the rest but I just took my time and eventually I was at the peak. My reward? One of the most stunning views I’ve seen in all of New Zealand. We could literally see for miles and the ocean below was so clear and filled with so many different hues of blue and green. I could have stood on that mountain top for hours!

The bonus of all of it, aside from the magnificent views, is that we did the hard work on the first part of the hike. It was all downhill getting back to the beach and the boat!!! That’s my kind of hiking. 

Back on Dazzler I had an icy cold beer and a nice rest in the cockpit to celebrate my accomplishment. Of course after that Dan decided we were going fishing and, well, you know what happened there.

This day was filled with a beautiful hike, a chance meeting with some terrific Kiwis and a near death (or maybe not so near death) experience. No matter how you look at it, this was a day filled with all the things that make a true adventure.

Until next time,

Jilly & Dan

P.S. If you want the less dramatic version of the fishing story you might want to read Captain Dan’s version. Sometimes he tends to be a little more level headed than me. CLICK HERE!

Where Did My Fishing Mojo Go?

I’ve been a fisherman and outdoorsman most of my life.  I learned to fish when I was just a wee lad off the stinky shores of the Salton Sea when it used to be teaming with Corvina, Crocker and Sargo fish.  Even the Whitewater trout farm had some good action for bare hooks.  I can remember hiking from Hurkey Creek Campground, across Highway 74, onto a trail through the woods to Lake Hemet where a box of worms and a Zebco push button reel on a cheap rod caught many 8” catfish and a stringer full of lake perch. And, occasionally I even caught a trout for dinner.  I’m not even going to address the fact that I was about 12 years old and unsupervised.  It was fishing in its purest form.  

Over the last six decades of life I have had many opportunities to fish.  Take my kids fishing and teach them life lessons and pass on the joys of being close to nature from that feeling that fishing brings.  Then there is also the catching aspect.  Because we all know that it’s called fishing not catching.  LOL

I Was An Expert In Mexico

While cruising in the Sea of Cortez for almost eight years, I became very good at catching many varieties of fish. Both by dingy fishing around anchorages as well as dragging hand lines behind Dazzler.

One time while traveling between Santa Rosalia and Bahia de Los Angeles I was dragging my favorite Mexican flag feather jigs on two separate hand lines. I caught and released 12 dorado in less than two hours. It was incredible! Another time I remember dingy fishing at one of our favorite anchorages and we caught 18, 4-9 pound yellowtail with a silver Crocodile lure. The lure would barely hit the water when the next fish hit it with that oh so famous strike that a yellowtail does followed by the screams of the reel’s drag. And the endless Cabrilla we caught and released. A little side note here. Just keep what you’re going to eat then catch and release everything else to increase your fishing skill and fun experiences with the entertainment that a fish leaping out of the water provides. Fun times!

Mexican Fishing Mojo

While in Mexico, I guess because of my background, inability of saying no, or fishing success, I was first talked into putting on a fishing seminar in Puerto Escondido.  Thanks Jack!  I suspect it was an overwhelming winner for other cruisers.  Who knew?  Additionally, word had stretched to La Cruz, where I was talked into conducting an annual fishing seminar there for cruisers, many of whom were preparing to jump to the South Pacific.  

During the seminars I discussed techniques, weather, equipment, hand lines, lures and looking for productive locations.  I even included a fish filleting demonstration with a large fresh Dorado and Pargo.  Bonus!   We grilled the fish and all participants took part in having fresh grilled fish after the demonstration.

Where Did My Fishing Mojo Go?

Fast forward to the South Pacific.  One would think that I’d have died and traveled to fisherman’s heaven.  At least that’s what I thought.  Little did I know that saltwater fishing in the South Pacific had other ideas.  It was obvious that I was behind the fishing curve and needed some more schooling.  Or as I like to call it, “Rail Time!”  We drug hand lines all over the South Pacific with little action.  There are a lot of factors, but I’m afraid that the reality is the waters have had a lot of local and global fishing pressure.  

Trolling a line at Urquharts Bay

It has been since 2019 that we actually had any wet lines. Wow! Where did 2020 go? I wish we could just forget everything that happened last year, but the effects have been long reaching. Recently we left Whangarei Town Basin Marina and got our first chance to get in some dingy fishing. We were all excited to actually tie on terminal tackle and try to figure out how to put some fish on the grill. Although, we drug lures, tantalized the bottom of the ocean with plastic baits and even tried to temp fish to eat freshly thawed dead baitfish, nothing seemed to work around the local waters between Whangarei Heads and Rangihoua Bay. Or perhaps I wasn’t doing something right. We did, however, get something in Whale Bay to steal our freshly thawed bait offering.

This is a Bronze Whaler. They can grow to 3 meters long!
Photo Copyright Marine Dynamics Toby Rogers

I know there is some kind of tackle that we have that will work on these fish. But what? Jilly decided to join a local fishing group on FaceBook and posed the question of what to use to catch NZ fish. Lots of different answers were provided including using burley in a burley trap. Wait a minute! What the heck is burley? I didn’t know either. Break out the internet again. Burley is a combination of smushed and ground up meat products of differing flavors shoved into a plastic sausage like tube, frozen and then sold at all the bait shops to thaw and put in a burley diffuser. This diffuser basket is then tied off at a certain depth to the side of your boat. You then put some dead bait on your hook, drop it into the chum slick behind your dingy and wait for the action.

Wait a minute.  I’ve seen this chum crap being used during Shark Week to get pictures of sharks trying to eat boats.  I’m not sure we will be trailing a burley chum line in an inflatable dingy through shark infested waters.  Something here sounds like a possible Darwin Awards candidate application.  The area we’ve been fishing has a good population of Bronze Whaler sharks.  They are a type of reef shark that love to eat fish line caught and from those who spear fish.  No spear fishing or chum line thank you very much!  Wouldn’t want them to accidentally take a bite out of our inflatable dingy.  LOL

The Curse Has Been Lifted

Dan & Bonito Fish
A Nice Bonito For Dinner

We also got advice to troll a blue over silver deep diving Rapala lure at about 6-8 knots. The rest of the advice included working the lure closely around structure, rocks and points. It just so happens that we have these lures and techniques in our fishing arsenal. Due to some changes in the weather we had moved from Whale Bay to Wairoa Bay where there are four small islands to fish around. The first day out dragging said Rapala behind Sparkle hooked a very nice Bonito. Score! First fish. Has the curse been lifted? LOL The sashimi and grilled Bonito were awesome. The next day we went out fishing again and this time we scored two very nice Kahawai fish. Once again sashimi and fish tacos, outstanding!

One lure and two different fish species.  Could it be that we found the magic bullet?  We will see.  Several days later and after leaving Kerikeri Cruising Club and Marina where we took on some supplies, we headed to Rangihoua Bay, the birth place of New Zealand.  That’s a story for a different post. 

Landing Our First Kahawai at Wairoa Bay

After putting in a hike ashore and learning about the Marsden Cross Memorial, we decided to try our fishing luck again. After a short troll around the shoreline rocks with no results, I decided we needed to head out to a remote island about a mile away called Motuterahiki Island. There was about a half meter swell slapping the eastern side of the island. The water drops off to about 80 feet all around it. Looks good to me. I asked Jilly, “Clockwise or counterclockwise?” She gave a reply that included something like she doesn’t do anything the normal way so we went counterclockwise around this island that was about the same size as a city block. We had almost completed one lap around the island when it happened. Bang! Fish on and the drag was singing out. This is where the story gets a little different depending on whose side you choose to believe. LOL

Watch The Rocks!

Whatever the fish was it was big, strong and or big and strong.  I roll off the throttle and put Sparkle into neutral.  Could this be an elusive Kingfish?  Let’s not get our hopes up just yet.  One thing for sure, if it is a Kingy, I didn’t want to let it get into the rocks.  So, I continued reeling against the line being stripped from my reel.  The engine then decided it needed to shut down.  No big deal we were still about 200 feet upwind and up swell of the island.  I hand the rod to Jilly while I restarted the Yamaha outboard.  I then moved us away from being allowed to drift onto the windward side of the island and its rocky shore.  Jilly hands me back the rod and I continue to fight Mr. Fish.  Pumping away on the rod and reeling in the fish I start gaining line against its strong tail thumping pull.  I hear from the port side of Sparkle, “We’re getting too close to the rocks.”  

Motuterahiki Island….a/k/a Death Rock

Close has many meanings!  Close could mean I want to sit close to you.  We’re close to New Zealand and yet we are still 500 miles away or it could mean impending doom with certain death to all that are nearby.  Apparently, I didn’t interpret close in the same way Jilly did.  Who knew?  

Once again I hand the rod to Jilly, tell her to let the fish run while I start the Yamaha again to move us away from the north side of the island. This time Sparkle doesn’t want to cooperate with my starting efforts. I pull and pull and pull some more. Yes we were getting a little closer to the rocky shore of what is now being called “Death Rock” from the port side of Sparkle. The outboard sputters to life. I put her in reverse and back away from the island. Just about this time a swell decides that we need a little more water inside Sparkle and some water enters over her transom.

I ask Jilly, “Is the fish still on the line?” You would have thought the wall of water that Moses and God created for the Israelites to walk across the seabed had let go into Sparkle’s interior by the look on Jilly’s face. The newly acquired indoor swimming pool came complete with our now floating five gallon bucket. I ask Jilly again, “Is the fish still on?” Still there’s no reply as I motor us away from the shore of the island only to have Sparkle’s engine stall once again. We were now in a position that would allow us to drift past the leeward side of the small island while we continue to fight this fish but Jilly still has this look of impending doom on her face.

I take the rod from Jilly and start pumping the reel where I finally get my answer. The fish is still on. Wow! It’s a miracle after all of the supposed near death experiences that the port side of Sparkle had endured. Just about that time I see the leader line appear from the water near the rod tip and about eight feet below the surface I see the long silver belly of what appears to be a Kingfish. Just as I’m saying those words, the fish pounds its tail and dives away from the surface rapidly peeling line from the reel. I guess he’s not ready to give up yet. Ha Ha Ha

Fish On!

This happens about three more times. Just as it gets close to Sparkle, it turns and dives for the depths. The last time he got into some rocks. I know a few tricks to try to get him out of the rocks. I let the line go limp and handed the rod to Jilly while I tried to get Sparkle started again and steer her to the other side of the rocks where this fish was hiding. I instructed Jilly to start taking up the slack on the line as we steered toward the fish’s hiding spot. After getting past that location I shut down the engine. The fish was obviously free from the rocks and Jilly was cranking away on the reel. “Here take it, my arms are getting tired” she says. I grab the rod from Jilly and Bam! The fish was still on and more importantly it was out of the rocks. After a few more soundings we finally tired the fish enough to attempt to boat it. I lift it over the port tube of Sparkle and as it hits the deck I hear, “Take that you Asshole!” Hummmm!

I measured this nice Kingfish against my tape on the floor of Sparkle. It was just over the 75 cm length requirement. The jubilation and cheering from the port side of Sparkle was as if we had just won some kind of world fishing record.

I quickly got it on the stringer, de-hooked it and cut its gills to bleed it.  After a few high fives, I got Sparkle’s outboard running again and we headed back to mothership to prepare our catch.

Dan & The Kingfish

Apparently, our Yamaha decided that this outing was the appropriate time to be temperamental. It was acting like water had somehow gotten into the carburetor or something. It still remains to be an intermittent issue. But, I think it is the new California EPA fuel tank I installed during our lockdown experience last year. It is supposed to let air in but not allow the tank to vent out when the fuel heats up in the sun resulting in a rectangular tank becoming round like a ball and rolling all over the floor of the dingy. Thanks California government. NOT! LOL

The sashimi and fresh grilled yellowtail Kingfish was incredible and it looks like my “Fishing Mojo” is back!

Until the next near death experience or as I like to say, “The difference between brown nose and kiss ass is not a matter of closeness, but rather death perception.”  LOL

Cheers!

Captain Dan

P.S. I’m sure there will be a “She Said” article about this same adventure where we were both mere inches from the jaws of death when the hand of God waved over us and pulled us from the doorstep of Fiddler’s Green and just like that life returned to normal.  Until then, tight lines to you all.