Tanks A Lot!

Here we are back in the peaceful village of Whangarei.  We were hoping that the lion was sleeping tonight, but that isn’t happening.  Every once in a while there is a boat project that needs to be addressed.  You know the one that you put off as long as you can before it decides that you can’t wait anymore?  Sometimes it hints to you in a subtle voice tempting you with how easy it won’t be.  Then there are times that it screams at you with the urgency of a backed up septic tank.  Our little darling of a task is somewhere in the middle.  Our built-in freshwater, stainless steel storage tank has decided that it has been silent for too long.  It has developed a nasty little leak and the welded edges have too much corrosion to control anymore.  So, I say tanks a lot. NOT!

It’s a good thing we have finished our seasonal cruising and have started to settle down into the early signs of winter here in New Zealand.  Time for projects to be completed and none other than the built-in stainless steel water tank has thrust itself to the top of the list. Needless to say Jilly is less than thrilled as she begins to understand the sheer scope of the task at hand.

Where do we start?  

First of all we need to find a suitable replacement tank or locate a local tank fabricator. Señor Google search engine engaged. Warp factor five Mr. Google, if you please. Additionally, the coconut telegraph has been initiated as well with coconuts humming at maximum capacity across the North Island of New Zealand. With input from local, knowledgeable Kiwis and the internet, we locked our sights onto Hercules Tanks located in Katikati which is just southeast of Auckland.

I fired off an email and received a prompt reply from the owner Frank Aerts.  Their freshwater tanks are made of polypropylene, to custom sized specifications. They are pressure tested, baffled and come with a CE certification of thickness.  What more could one ask for?  Frank also explained that the turn around time is about 10 working days from submitted order and payment.  Without good measurements until after our existing tank is removed, he could only provide a rough estimate.  The cost estimate was substantially lower than I had envisioned.  

The rule of thumb regarding estimating the time or cost of boat projects is much like forecasting weather. It is not an exact science. You can and will be wrong at least 50% of the time.  The magic formula goes something like this:  The initial cost estimate plus tools; plus time; plus repairs for damage caused to things you didn’t intend to damage; plus medical costs for miscellaneous injuries; plus consumable supplies minus the learning curve; lodging; food and adult beverages.  Add that all together, multiply times three, turn around three times and look to the east as you chant the magic words, “I hope that’s everything.”

Why does it have to be the water tank?  

There is so much work needed to get to the water tank.  Only half of the saloon floor boards are removable to gain access to a small portion of the built in tank.  I’m sure that back in 1987 when Dazzler was being formed in the womb of the Union Yacht Company dropping the beautifully crafted stainless steel water tank was just that easy.  Set it and forget it.  Next the stringers were installed across the top of the tank to hold up the elevated teak and holly sole/floor boards.  Then they built in all the bulkheads, settee, dining table, storage compartments, mast compression post, head, shower, doors and cabin top to name a few.  A virtual jigsaw puzzle of fasteners, epoxy and fiberglass joints.  The tank is under it all! AAAAAAWWWWWKKKKK!  Where is the rum?

Basically this job, task or satanic ritual as it will come to be known as, will not be easy.  In fact, I’m still asking myself if this is really necessary.  The answer is still yes.  Damn it! I can hear  The Fiddler on the Roof singing, “If I were a rich man…….,” I’d pay someone to do this for me and go on a vacation for a month.  But, since I was not born into that category, I’ll be the laborer/contractor assigned to this project.  Okay, enough whining! Jilly is surely doing enough of that for the both of us.

My initial thought process was to buy all the equipment, tools and supplies and just go for it.  Equipment rentals and safety equipment needed to be purchased and then there is the wild card of possibly injuring myself while using all the tools and dealing with the sharp edges of the freshly cut steel tank.  Thank goodness I came to my senses and justified hiring someone with boat building experience and the necessary tools to cut out my old tank.  

I called Frank at Hercules Tanks and he suggested that I contact Heath at B.M. Services in Tauranga.  Heath indicated that he was busy, but should be able to fit us into his schedule.  All I needed to do is send him some photographs of Dazzler’s interior tank areas.  We also sent some photos of our last haul out to Tauranga Marine Society Marina to assist the lift operator with lift strap placements.  Jilly found us a great Air B&B close by so we had a place to stay while while I worked on getting the tank out and cleaning up the bilge. The building blocks of the tank replacement plan were starting to fall in place. 

Prior to departing Whangarei, I decided to get as many of the consumables needed to complete the tank replacement project. It’s not that we couldn’t get them in Tauranga but here we already knew the vendors. I planned to clean and paint the bilge area under the old tank before the new tank was installed. We figured that we might as well give Dazzler a fresh coat of bottom paint while she’s out of the water as well. We needed to get the bottom paint, bilge paint and primer, lumber to repair the stringers that needed to be cut, plumbing supplies for the tank fittings and a couple cases of beer. Ha ha ha!

The Journey to Tauranga

With all the arrangements in place the time came to make the two day passage from Whangerei to Tauranga. The trip would take us southeast down the coast past Great Barrier Island and into the Bay of Plenty where we would find Tauranga. The first day was a pretty long one. We left around 1030 hours, just before high tide. We had some communication issues with the bridge operator at the Hatea River Bridge which costs us a half hour or so but the rest of the trip was brilliant.

We spent that evening at an anchorage called Cooks Bay which is inside the larger Mercury Bay.  We were the only boat in the anchorage and the beach was pretty deserted.  Of course we are in the beginning of winter here and most of the bachs on the beach are holiday residences for Kiwis.  Given the cold weather it is understandable that they were mostly empty.

The following day we departed at first light to make certain we arrived in Tauranga at slack tide.  This marina is what is referred to as a tidal marina meaning you need to time entry and exit on the tides as strong currents and big tidal swings are the norm.  The right timing for entrance or exit can make all the difference. 

On the way down we came across a large bait ball bubbling on top of the ocean.  Given the size I couldn’t resist so I grabbed a pole and steered Dazzler in that direction. Within a few minutes I made one of my favorite announcements, “Fish on”.  I pulled up a nice Kahuwai that would have made for a great dinner but it was cold and I just wasn’t feeling like filleting a fish so this one was returned to the sea where he can continue his watery existence until the next fisherman hooks him or a tuna or shark make him dinner.

Tank Demolition

The day after our arrival we started rounding up our supplies and contacted Heath Fairweather at B. M. Services.  Heath came down to Dazzler at the visitor berth at the end of H pier.  How many steps to the end?  At close to a thousand, it’s a fur piece.  After examining our tank and discussing our options we developed a plan.  Heath suggested we use Pete Gilliam of Dockside Marine Mechanical for the tank removal cutting.  Pete met with us and we agreed to start the following Tuesday as Monday was the New Zealand holiday for the Queen’s Birthday.

This left me with a few days to get things organized onboard.  We had to cover everything with plastic to prevent dust from creeping into the lockers. We also had to put up protective cardboard on surface areas that might be damaged by sharp edges of cut up stainless steel tank pieces.

Tanks A Lot
As you can see, it was a huge undertaking and disruption to Dazzler to get this project completed.

I took a very deep breath as I cut the stringers.  The plan for re-installing them was in place but nothing could be done until after the new tanks were installed.  Additionally, I had to make a surgical cut out of the floor under our saloon table for added access to the tank area for removal and installation of the tank. This was especially concerning as we’d been advised that finding teak and holly flooring would be next to impossible due to Covid and the resulting material delays from overseas.

All in all things were falling into place and the stage was set for demolition of the old tank.  This project was so invasive to our living space we were not able to live onboard during the process.  With saloon cushions covered in plastic and safely stowed in the forward bunk along with everything else from the saloon and walls and lockers covered, we were ready to get started on the demolition.  With any luck we hoped to be able to have the old tank out by mid week.  

Pete showed up on Tuesday morning and we started cutting out the old tank. By the end of the day we had at least 3/4 of the tank removed. Wednesday we finished the removal by noon. Looking at the tank pieces on the pallet, I discovered that there were two ruptured welds along the bottom corners of the tank. I guess it was time for removal and replacement after all. Ryan from Hercules Tanks showed up at 1230 hours and obtained the necessary measurements for the new tanks.

Pete from Dockside Marine Mechanical working hard at cutting out the old stainless tank.

Time To Get My Clean On  

Next I had to clean and sand areas of the bilge in preparation of applying bilge paint.  I would love to have just one tank that slips down into the bilge like a sexy evening glove.  However, it wasn’t that easy.  The plan was to have two tanks made that would fit side by side down into the bilge for ease of installation.  We were not having an exact duplicate tank made.  In fact we figured we would lose about a third of our current tank capacity.  The existing tank volume is about 150 US gallons.  Our new tank’s capacity will be somewhere around 100-130 US gallons plus or minus.  Our water maker has been very reliable which will make the smaller size a comfortable modification.  We will always have the option of jumping in the ocean to get clean if needed. HA HA

Painting Anyone?

Before we left Whangarei we obtained all of our paint supplies and other paint consumables from our friends at Wynn Fraser.  One of the good things about being detained in New Zealand has been the friendships we have developed with the local businesses around Whangarei.  Not just the chandleries, but all of the other marine related business as well.  Seeing familiar faces and having developed friendships has resulted in an incredible network of knowledge base for being able to discuss solutions for boat projects and project dilemmas.  

It is very much like days of old when I was a lot younger and growing up in a small California desert city.  I loved going to Jennings Hardware.  The staff was incredible.  Their knowledge base was so broad and they happily shared it with you.  Some of the big box hardware stores of today employ lots of people with limited knowledge for the department they are working in.  Yes they know all about the products, but they may lack the actual usage or application experience. That’s not the case here.

Primer and Bilgekote now applied and I’m not too dizzy from all the fumes yet.  Thank goodness for vapor masks.  Looks good enough to eat off of. Now it’s time for a couple of weeks of R&R while we wait for the tank to be manufactured. Don’t worry, Jilly will tell you all about that over the next few articles. Until then I think I’m going to kick back with a beer or two.

Cheers,

Captain Dan

Want to see more Dazzler boat projects? Click Here!

Where Did Dazzler Go?

Okay, okay, we know, we’ve been very lax, too lax in fact, in failing to wrap up our circumnavigation of the North Island of New Zealand with you which is likely leaving you asking the question, “Where did Dazzler go?” Please accept our sincerest apologies. 

Our arrival back in Whangarei presented us with boat projects, wedding plans and a myriad of other things that have held our attention. No excuses here, just the facts. So, without further delay please allow us to wrap up the circumnavigation for you.

If my old gal memory serves me right we left you in the Colville Channel which runs between the Coromandel Peninsula and Great Barrier Island on the east coast of North Island. Initially we had planned to call in at Great Barrier for a few days on our way north but after the butt kicking we took at Tolaga Bay we were both ready to get back to the marina and enjoy a little “land time”. And, of course, I was chomping at the bit to get working on wedding plans. Namely finding a dress. You know us girls…we love to plan a good party and a wedding….even better. 

Our trip north from the Great Barrier Island area was pretty non-eventful. The weather held out until a couple of hours before we reached the mouth of the Hatea River but even then, it wasn’t too bad. It was getting close to sunset as we neared the small island known as “Sail Rock”. Located just 13 NM south of the entrance to the Hatea River and less than 2 NM southwest of the Hen & Chickens Islands this towering rock formation is surely filled with tons of mana. From afar it looks like the sail of a ship. Up close you can see faces that remind us of the mana we see everywhere in the South Pacific. 

A WONDERFUL WELCOME

We were maybe two miles away from Sail Rock when we looked off the starboard side and much to our delight we saw literally hundreds of dolphin. It was such a beautiful sight watching them jump out of the water and swim along side of Dazzler. Not since our time in the Sea of Cortez have we seen so many dolphin in one place. It was a truly wonderful way to end a day and our trip around North Island. And no, just in case you’re curious, we never tire of the sights and sounds of the wildlife on the ocean. 

Just after dark we pulled into Urquharts Bay. If you know us you also know that it is the very rare occasion that we drop anchor or go into or out of a place in the dark. It’s not that we can’t do it, we just prefer to err on the side of caution because most places we visit we’ve never been to before or have only been to once or twice. But, we’ve spent enough time in this small bay that we decided it would be just fine and, as we predicted, all went well. 

After a couple of days at sea we were truly ready to enjoy a few anchor down beers and relax. The skies were beginning to clear up and the bay was calm. One of my favorite things about this bay is the view across the river to Marsden Point and the refinery there. It is New Zealand’s only oil refinery and something about it just fascinates me.

On this particular night the view was simply spectacular. The clouds were beginning to move out of the area and the colors of light reflecting off of them from the refinery were simply stunning. It was even a bit eerie as it almost looked like the whole area was on fire. Thanks to my awesome Huawei phone I was able to capture some brilliant images of it too. And no, I don’t get paid by Huawei to say that either. Their camera on my P30 Pro is just so good that I can’t help spreading the word. 

After a good night’s sleep we were up bright and early to finish the final leg of the circumnavigation. We needed to get up river and under the Hatea River Bridge while the tide was still high enough. Even though they recently dredged the area it still is a bit shallow during low tide. So, off and running at 0630 we made the final two hour trip. We were still going to be a bit later than we hoped but Dan was certain it would be okay. 

I didn’t know until we were sipping our celebratory anchor down beers at Town Basin Marina (our Kiwi home away from home) that when we passed by Dockland 5 just before the bridge our depth finder showed zero feet under the keel! Thank goodness for the fluffy mud in the river. We must have just been sliding through it.

The sun was bright overhead and there was no wind to speak of as we made our way under the bridge, past Riverside Drive Marina and into the town basin. As always, I was on the bow taking in the sights and snapping a few photos. It felt a lot like coming home as we approached the marina. Of course we’ve been living here for the better part of two years now so it sort of is our home for the moment.

As I sat on top of the dingy on the foredeck I found myself reflecting back over the past few months and all that transpired. I am grateful and humbled by the people and places we’ve been so blessed experience in these three months.

THE HIGHLIGHTS

Where Did Dazzler Go?

We traveled just under 1580 NM in 86 days and visited 31 different anchorages and ports. During that time we experienced days at sea that were so calm it was hard to believe we were even on the water. On a few of those days the water so flat and mirror like it was hard to tell where the sea ended and the sky began. We also endured rough seas, rain, freezing cold and moments I would have much rather have been sitting on shore over being tossed like a cork in the ocean. But, that’s part of the adventure so there’s no use complaining about it. 

We saw incredible wildlife I never thought I would see in my life like rafts of wild Blue Penguins in their natural environment and the nearly extinct Hector’s Dolphins of which they believe less than 70 are still in existence. We saw them three different times! We saw sea lions, seals and the incredibly large and magnificent Albatross as they flew ever so gracefully around Dazzler on several occasions during our trip. 

I saw my first ever harbor seal in the marina at Nelson. Unfortunately I never got a photo because we were docking and the Captain was insisting that I tend to my duties, which at that moment, did not include photographing the wildlife. He can be such a killjoy sometimes. 

There were the thousands and thousands of very odd yet interesting phallic shaped jellyfish that surrounded us for miles and the hundreds of dolphin that seemed to welcome us home as we approached the mouth of the Hatea River on our second to last day.

We saw simply stunning mountain and water views and went hiking in places so beautiful they absolutely defy description. 

We met people whose kindness and generosity is so genuine it made us ponder what the world would be like if everyone was as kind as the Kiwis. If only….

We caught our first New Zealand Kingfish and almost crashed Sparkle onto the rocks in the meantime causing me to name the rock island in question, Death Rock. We also caught our first Kahuwai fish and learned that they are simply delicious whether you eat them sashimi style, grilled or put them in tacos!!! 

We explored the world famous Bay of Islands and a place we thought was even more spectacular, Marlborough Sound. 

We spent five weeks enjoying the company of our dear German family, Lutz & Gabi of SV SuAn as we traveled together throughout the sounds. We played dominoes, hiked, explored, laughed, joke and shared many meals and sundowners together. The memories we created with them will surely live on in our hearts and minds forever.

More Firsts

And…there were many other firsts as well. I endured a crazy skin infection for the first part of the trip that the doctors could not identify. With enough antiobiotics it eventually went away, but not before leaving numerous very ugly scars on my arms and legs thereby ensuring I will never win the Miss America title. Good thing I didn’t have my heart set on that.

I got seasick leaving Russell and found myself chumming over the side of Dazzler as we left the harbor. This was first for me but also for Dan as he’d never had someone get seasick on her. I certainly hope never to have happen again.

I experienced my first tsunami warning in the wee hours of the morning of 10 February when a 7.9 magnitude earthquake occurred just south of the Loyalty Islands in New Caledonia. Fortunately the effects in Kerikeri were mild and consisted only of swirling waters, stronger than usual currents and higher tides. 

I wrote my first song ever that I now play regularly on my tin whistle. It’s called “Dolphin Song”. I named it as such because I was playing it in the cockpit when we were just outside of Nelson at the end of our four day passage from Doubtless Bay. I had been calling out to the ocean asking the gods to send us some wildlife for an hour or so. The moment I started playing this song we were surrounded by some of these gorgeous creatures. That happened more than once on our trip so there was no doubt what the name should be. No, I’m not Dr. Doolittle but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn Express once. LOL

We rafted Dazzler to SuAn in Stafford Bay. It wasn’t Dan’s first rafting experience with Dazzler but it was mine and I was a bit on edge as we brought her along side but as usual Dan was a pro. And, I did find it to be quite enjoyable having our dear friends right next door. It certainly made our afternoon happy hour very easy to attend.

For the first time in my 53 years on earth I was serenaded on my birthday by dear friends who actually practiced ahead of time. Lutz played the guitar, they sang and truly melted my old girl heart with their German accents singing the “Happy Birthday” song. You really haven’t lived until you’ve heard this song being sung with a thick German accent. 

We spent eleven days in Windy Wellington, the World’s Windiest City where I learned that living in a super windy city is not all it’s cracked up to be. The weather changes at the drop of a hat, I was constantly dealing with dirt in my contacts and my hair always looked like I had just gotten out of bed even when I spent a half hour straightening it before leaving the boat.

On our way back north we experienced one of the worst storms we have ever experienced at anchor. It was a night that made being at sea during a storm feel like a peaceful experience and it’s also a night neither of us will ever forget. 

And, oh yes….let’s not forget the most spectacular thing that happened during this trip…Dan & I got engaged! It is truly the most wonderful thing to ever happen to me and I’m so looking forward to October this year when we get married on the beach and I finally get to be Mrs. Dan Morrison a/k/a Mrs. Dazzler.

Best Day Ever

Looking back we certainly did pack a lot of fun and adventure into 86 days didn’t we? I guess that’s one of the things we love most about this life….we never know what’s coming next. Sometimes it’s scary or crazy but for the most part it’s truly extraordinary and makes each day feel like a blessing! The exhilaration of not knowing what will happen next keeps us feeling alive!

Now….it’s time to get on with the “business” of boat living. Don’t worry, we won’t wait so long to make our next post. Dan has lots of projects and we’re going to be doing a bit of traveling too so stand by to stand by. The Dazzler crew is back!

Until next time,

Jilly

Click below to find out more about our trip around the North Island of New Zealand!