Being Good Neighbors

This article is being published in honor of my mother, Peggy and my late father, Lyle, who raised me to be outgoing, giving, respectful, caring and open minded. Those traits and my positive attitude have allowed me to fit perfectly within the cruiser/liveaboard community. Their love of all people and the wonderful way they treated everyone they came into contact with is truly an inspiration. And since today would have been their 63rd wedding anniversary I can’t think of a more fitting way to celebrate them than to talk about being good neighbors. Thanks Mom & Dad! I love you!

Just when you think there is no good in the world. You know, when you can’t turn on the TV or read a newspaper without hearing about all the violence that surrounds us? Honestly…. in just the past week alone we had Will Smith’s aggressive and violent behavior at the Academy Awards, a mass shooting in Sacramento that left six people dead and more in hospital and, of course, we certainly can’t forget the psychotic leader of Russia who is needlessly killing Ukranians in a bid for more power. And that’s just a handful of examples. It’s really easy to see how people are becoming so jaded and frustrated and downright angry but there’s one thing about the cruising community around the world that really should inspire others. You see here it’s all about being good neighbors.

If you are a cruiser then you already know what I mean but if you aren’t let me explain. First of all, the world of liveaboard cruisers is relatively tiny. Depending upon who you ask, they will tell that in the USA there is probably only a maximum of 100,000 liveaboard cruisers. That’s a mere .03% of the entire USA population. Extrapolate that out across the world and its 7.9 billion people and you’re left with just over 2.3 million people who live this lifestyle. It’s pretty easy to see just how small the cruising community is worldwide. 

The thing is, what we lack in size we more than make up for in heart. This is where the being good neighbors part comes in. Because we are such a small group of people we all look after each other. True, you’re often known better by your boat’s name, i.e. “Here come the Dazzlers” than you are by your first names but that’s okay….at least people know you right? 

Fitting Into The Cruiser Community

When I first moved onto Dazzler in 2017 I really wasn’t sure what to expect from the cruising community in Mexico. Unfortunately there was a small subsection of people in La Cruz who treated me as a stepchild and commented behind my back that I was merely a boat bimbo just looking to hook up with a man so I could travel. Yes, there are gals out there doing just that. Of course I certainly wasn’t one of them. But, aside from the jealous ones who couldn’t understand that we actually loved each other and I wasn’t just there for the perks, I found that the cruising community welcomed me with open arms.

One of the first really welcoming experiences came when we were in a little anchorage called Puerto Escondido. Dan needed to make a run back to the States for some parts and was going to be gone for five days. I’d only been living on Dazzler for about a month and here I was going to be alone on her, on the hook, in a country where I barely spoke the language. Of course the good thing was I did know how to order a beer and tacos so I wouldn’t starve to death. You might say it was a bit daunting but, it was my first real test and I wasn’t going to fail. So, even though I was terrified, I acted like it was no big deal.

The night before Dan left we were invited to MV Mystic Eyes for sundowners with the rest of the yachties in the anchorage. I had briefly met a couple of them prior to this evening but really didn’t know any of them. They all welcomed me with open arms and upon learning that I would be alone on Dazzler for a week they offered any assistance I needed.

The day Dan left, Mark, of MV Delta Swizzler came by on his tender to check on me and let me know they were just a radio call away. He even told me that he came by rather than called because he didn’t want just anyone to know I was there alone. And, before they left the anchorage he had arranged with another cruiser to check on me daily until Dan returned. Here were these people who barely knew me but who made it their job to look after me. Talk about being good neighbors. I’ll never forget Mark and Cindy for taking me under their wing and making me feel comfortable with the situation.

Terry and Diane of SV Harmony Anacortes were also champions of being good neighbors when they watched over me and even took me out for an afternoon of fun and cocktails after I’d spent five days cooking pre-made meals for our passage from Mexico to the Marquesas. Since Dan was back in the States Terry even offered to come over and take care of a “situation” I was having with a neighboring boat who was stealing our water. Apparently their idea of being a good neighbor meant we would pay for the water they used to wash down their boat. THAT’S taking it a just a bit too far.

Terry and Diane of SV Harmony Anacortes (left) and Mark and Cindy of MV Delta Swizzler (back middle and right). Such Great Neighbors!

It Just Doesn’t Seem To Happen On Land

The thing is, in the world of landlubber living this just doesn’t seem to happen as often as it should. You know what I mean. You have a new neighbor move in next door and you think, “I should really take over some muffins or something and welcome them to the neighborhood.” But then Billy needs a ride to baseball and Sally needs to be picked up from violin practice. You’ve got a doctor’s appointment, a hair appointment or pedicure screaming your name.  Your spouse is out of town on business so you have to do it all and well, you really just don’t have time to pick up muffins and stop over to greet the newbies in the neighborhood. In a matter of seconds that wonderful thought becomes little more than a distant memory of a good intention never realized.

Along our travels we’ve found over and over again that the stranger next door can quickly become one of your best mates if you just take a few moments to introduce yourself. And you see, in the world of cruising that is something we all just seem to do naturally. Some might say it’s because we are often in marinas and are so close to our neighbor that it’s easy but we find this in anchorages as well.

Others will say, “Well of course you do. YOU have the time to do it. You don’t work.” But, the truth is that many liveaboards are still working full time and there’s a good percentage of them that have children that they are homeschooling in addition to earning a living. Even they seem to find the time to reach out and be neighborly. 

And let me be very clear. Just because we don’t have to get up and go to a job does not mean we don’t have work to do. Daily there are chores and projects and other things that require our time and attention. And when you don’t have a car everything takes three times as long to accomplish. Time is precious to all of us. You just have to decide whether or not you will make the time to get to know your neighbors.

They Come When You Least Expect It

We were in the anchorage in Pago Pago, American Samoa a couple of years ago when we saw a tender approaching. We noted that they had come from an American flagged vessel and it’s not unusual for a stranger to come by to say hello when they spot another boat from their same country. Soon Helen and her husband, Mark of SV Charabia, were along side chatting with us. In our conversation we learned that they are from Jacksonville, Florida where I lived for several years. Imagine that….thousands of miles across the sea and you meet someone who lives just a few miles from where you did. 

What’s interesting about them stopping by, aside from the fact that they are from Jacksonville, is that we didn’t actually get time to get together while we were there in Pago Pago although we each offered any assistance the other required while in the anchorage. We did become friends on Facebook and we’ve emailed back and forth a few times and these two lovely folks have even offered to let us stay at their home in Jacksonville if we come to visit the area. And they did that because that is just what cruisers do. We open our hearts to each other and great things come of it.

(Note: Helen has written two books about their travels. Click the image to the right to find out more about them.)

Just a month or so ago I was in the galley when I heard the roar of bow thrusters and I knew it likely meant a new vessel was soon to be occupying the slip beside us. The bow thrusters is a telltale sign that it would be a big boat and it would only serve to block my wonderful view of the newly finished Hundertwasser Museum across the marina from us. As I poked my head outside I found my instincts were dead on. In comes a very large power boat. You know, the overpowering bulky kind with the fly bridge that thunders overhead blocking the view of anything and everything? Well, needless to say I wasn’t overly thrilled about this but I did know that most who come into this particular berth are just transients so they wouldn’t likely be there for long. I guess a few days wouldn’t be such a big deal. 

Despite my unhappiness with the new obstruction to my view I stepped out to ask if the Captain needed assistance with lines. He assured me he had it all under control so I went back below. A little while later I was on deck and he and I struck up a conversation. Turns out his name is Pieter and his craft is MV Hineawa. After chatting with him on an off over the course of a couple of days I found that I really enjoyed having him docked beside us. He didn’t know the area well so we made suggestions for restaurants and gave him a bit of the lay of the land. We even offered to pick up a pizza and bring it back to him when we headed out one evening. He and Dan hit if off like gangbusters and we entertained him on Dazzler a couple of times during his stay.

Pieter of MV Hineawa

Pieter is a true Kiwi in spirit and at heart. Knowing that we don’t have a car and upon hearing that we needed to go to Auckland for a weekend, he told us he had an extra car we could borrow if we could get down there. Seriously….a man we knew for less than a week was offering to loan us his car. Sometimes being neighborly in the cruising community goes far beyond what you’d ever expect.

Nicky of SV Omarsea

And then there’s our long time neighbors here in the marina, Tony & Nicky of SV Omarsea. We’ve been docked next to them ever since we arrived back in New Zealand in 2019. Of course we certainly didn’t expect to still be here two and a half years later but here we are here on the Charlie dock with Tony & Nicky right next door.

These are the neighbors every person wants to have whether you live on the water or on land. They watch out for you and your home to be sure nothing happens to either. They spend time sitting in their cockpit aka “back porch” each day and are always game for a bit of a chat up. If you need something and they have it they will gladly share it with you. Over the last six or eight months they have even loaned us their car on a regular basis. If they see we are walking with our cart to go to the store they simply won’t hear of it. They insist on us using their car. 

Left to right, Tony of SV Omarsea and Barry of SV Vitesse

With Tony & Nicky we’ve shared some truly wonderful and special times. We treated them to their first ever American Thanksgiving dinner, the were guests at our wedding and Tony is always out on the dock helping Dan with projects or just keeping him company. And, if we are leaving the dock or returning you can bet your bottom dollar that Tony will be there to help with the lines. They are some of the best neighbors we’ve ever had, on land or on the water.

Being Good Neighbors Pays Off

There’s our very best mates, Lutz & Gabi of SV SuAn, who we met in Mexico. We became friends because they needed to borrow a hookah (air compressor) to clean the bottom of their boat before they left for the Marquesas. They heard we had one and so they asked if we would loan it to them. Of course we would. Shortly after arriving in the Marquesas they emailed us to ask if we could bring them some zipper material. We picked it up and delivered it to them a month later in Hiva Oa a little over 3000 NM away. 

Lutz & Gabi of SV SuAn

When we arrived there after twenty-five days at sea, who was there to greet us? None other than the crew of SV SuAn. And not only did they greet us but they prepared sundowners and a fabulous dinner of fresh tuna steaks as their way of thanking us for being such good neighbors. Since then we travel across the South Pacific together and become so close we are more like family than friends.

The point is that a couple of neighborly gestures offered up to complete strangers can result in relationships that are so meaningful and full of love you wonder how you ever lived without them in your life.

I could go on an on about other neighbors we’ve had along the way. Max & Alex of SV Y2K and Chuck & Lauri of SV Free Spirit who have also assisted us with wheels when we needed to get somewhere out of comfortable walking distance. Johan and Francina of SV Ntoombi who took video of our wedding. Yes, along the way we’ve met so many incredible friends and neighbors. 

And we try to do our part to be good neighbors as well. It seems Dan is always offering up his expertise to someone who needs to know how to do a particular thing like diagnosing engine issues or radio problems or even sewing some canvas for them. I can’t even begin to tell you the number of times we’ve been in a tienda having a couple of beers when he heard over the handheld HF radio that some stranger was in trouble and we’d have to pack up and race out to the anchorage to assist them. 

Dan sewing up some wiring sleeves for SV Y2K

As for me, I’m not nearly as talented as Dan so I stick to creating videos for people and being the lady on the dock who always brings bags of Christmas goodies the week before Christmas.  After all, someone has to do it and I can’t keep all those sweet treats on Dazzler. If I did we’d be so big we couldn’t get through the companionway doors.  

The thing is that cruisers meet and form lifelong bonds because we are open to the idea of introducing ourselves and making new connections. No, not all of our neighbors are the people we want to hang out with all of the time but regardless, we all treat each other with kindness and respect and in doing so we find that our cruising community is a very happy place to be. Wouldn’t it be nice if this sort of thing would blossom out to the landlubbers? It can. All it takes is a couple of minutes to stop and introduce yourself to your neighbors. After all, who knows where it could lead?

Until next time,

Jilly

P.S. Keep checking back as the Dazzler crew is gearing up to head back to the islands! We’ve finished our boat projects and are heading out of Whangarei this week. We will begin staging at Marsden Cove Marina as we await a good weather window. Then, we will check out of New Zealand, head to Minerva Reef for a few days and then on to Fiji.

Before you take off on passage make absolutely certain you’ve checked all your systems and rigging. Click here to see how Dazzler avoided what could have been a disastrous situation.

Avoiding Disaster At Sea

Dan getting ready to go up the mast.
The first of dozens of trips up the mast.

Oh joy! Continuing with pre-departure checks and inspections in anticipation of leaving the safety and convenience of marina life next week. We’re gonna go back to the wild! Yay! Today’s checklist included going up the mast to give all the bits and pieces of the rigging a bit of a scrub up and inspect for any visible damage or defects. This is one of those jobs that is sometimes like work. I actually had scheduled an insurance rigging survey for tomorrow. So I wanted to give it all a quick once over so there wouldn’t be any surprises.

I worked my way up the mast with my trusty Top Climber and settled in at the top to start cleaning with some white vinegar.  As I started with the top of the forestay I saw what appeared to be some corrosion just below the swage fitting.  I sprayed a little white vinegar onto the area and started in with the stainless steel wire brush.  Humm!  It didn’t come off at all.  Closer inspection revealed two small cracks in two strands of the SS wire rope.  The little voice in my head said, “Inspect, Repair or Replace? Which one should we do to avoid a disaster at sea?”

I immediately knew that our departure plans next week were going to be put on hold.  Bummer!  It always happens when you least expect it.  That being said, I would rather discover the broken wires in port where I can safely control the repair than have to cut away the mast and rigging at sea because it broke while underway.  

I cannot express enough the value of carefully inspecting your equipment before undertaking an offshore passage like circumnavigating North Island New Zealand or crossing oceans.  That means the standing and running rigging, engine and its necessary components, electronics, firmware updates, loose objects secured and hatches secured before setting out for adventure.

Finding a defective section of wire rope is disappointing, however experiencing an unexpected emergency while well offshore could have catastrophic consequences.  We all have heard or read about those fateful offshore sailing stories of boats loosing their mast, rigs or even lives being lost during a catastrophic event.  Acting with due diligence, pre-trip inspections will edge you closer to being better prepared then being surprised.

Some things can be avoided with proper planning.  And then there are those things that are out of our control.  Acts of God, poor metal qualities, freak incidents like visiting UFOs or even biologicals like whales.  There is even the possibility of encountering one of the thousands of shipping containers whether partially submerged or full on floating on the surface.  Either way preparation is a key element prior to heading away from the anchorage or off the dock. 

We vacillated for only a few seconds on whether to replace just the forestay or bite the bullet and replace all standing rigging.  It really wasn’t a hard decision.  Remembering the old adage of an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure came to mind.  I replaced all of Dazzler’s rigging in 2009 while preparing for her initial departure from Southern California.  She has served very well during those years and all the miles under her keel.  Yes it was time to give the old wires a retirement and replace with new full strength rigging in its place.  

I called our rigger, Matthew Smith over at C Spar Ltd and let him know I needed to cancel our survey appointment because of the discovered damaged.  Additionally, I explained that I would be replacing our rigging and that I’d be in shortly with our lower shrouds.

It Begins

I first removed the four turn buckles from the lower shrouds.  Next it was back up the mast to pull them out of the spreader bases.  Jilly was on deck to grab them and secured them on the deck until I could get back down.  Down the mast and off to the rigging shop to drop them off for replacement.

The next day I detuned our rig a bit more and removed the headsail and staysail from the roller furling tubes so they could be stored out of the way during this whole process.  I’m guessing it will take us about three weeks to complete the change over to new rigging.  But for now we’re just waiting for the first set of shrouds to be complete and reinstalled.

I would like to interject here that I had been contemplating the possibility of changing over to synthetic rigging like Dyneema or Amsteel.  One of the largest issues here is obtaining the necessary end fittings to make the transition.  Yes all are available but most would have to be ordered internationally and shipped to us.  The wild card in this equation is time.  How long will it take to get the right supplies in hand to complete the job?  Our New Zealand visa time clock is clicking away a week at a time.  Before we know it, it will be late April and time to start looking for a weather window for departure.  

There are many tradeoffs, pros and cons to consider before making this conversion.  We decided to stay with the traditional stainless steel rigging as we know its performance, track record and reliability.  Besides Dazzler is a blue water cruiser not an America’s Cup competitor looking for the smallest lightest equipment that works in a competition.  No, we are content moving along at a whopping 4-6 knots an hour, smelling the coffee, eating the freshly made morsels of ambrosia from the galley wench and enjoying the world slowly passing by.  So for now, we will continue with our course of action to stay with the shiny stuff.

I will say that our Dyneema lifelines have held up exceptionally well over the last four years.  There are very little signs of deterioration and minimal fraying if any.  They do what they are intended to do.  The texture and feel took a while to get used to in the beginning from the texture of the stainless steel lifelines, but overall it was a nice upgrade.  

Hey! Get Back To Work. OKAY!

You get off topic a little and the Best Mate thinks I’m sluffing off. The first four pieces of rigging were now ready. I picked them up and easily installed them on Dazzler. Next I had to remove the staysail and one of the intermediate shrouds. I only had to replace one intermediate shroud. I won’t go into detail but I had replaced the port side last year due to my own stupidity.

I also removed the two whisker stays. The 12 year old ProFurl roller furling system has five aluminum tubes that are held together with aluminum bearing holders that encase two half bearings made from what looks like DuPont Delrin ( Polyoxymethylene POM) that insulate the stainless wire rope from the aluminum bits and pieces. The bearing holders are held in place inside the aluminum tubes with two recessed hex grub or set screws on each end.

Tube Truth

I’m sure you are wondering why I went into detail about these tubes. Well I’ll tell you Shoutie. It was these grub/set screws that presented the biggest pain in the backside. These little babies had been installed in 2009 without having been removed since then. In order to remove the stainless steel wire rope from the aluminum tubes these small screws had to be removed first. Penetrating oil, heat, drill bits and screw extractors were used to remove these little stinkers from their holes. I guess these tubes weren’t going to just fall apart anytime underway.

Needless to say, the process of disassembly of the tubes took a lot more time than anticipated.  Which, brings to mind one of my favorite sayings, “Every boat project is a broken bolt away from a three day event.”  This part of the project should have been completed in about 20-30 minutes.  It was finally done about three and a half hours later.  Eight screws had to be painstakingly extracted with several different tools including a drill.  When it was all done, three broken drill bits, a few metal shards and sweat were strewn about the dock surface.   

I tried to use the smallest bit possible as to not bugger up the threads tapped in the aluminum tubes.  The grub/set screws were 4mm in size and when properly installed were below the surface of the aluminum tubes to allow the headsail upper bearing to easily slide up and down the assembled tubes.  Luckily I had a small supply of replacement grub/set screws onboard for replacement.  After finally being able to remove the stainless steel wire stay, I ferried them over to the C Spar for replacement. 

Always nice to have a good mate to help you work through the issues.

One of my immediate concerns was how bad is the headstay going to be as it has two more sections of aluminum tubing.  That will have to wait its turn.  Next up on the rigging repair was cleaning up the threads of the staysails roller tubes for reassembly.  I had to obtain a 4mm tap to assist in cleaning up the threads.  Using a smaller drill bit helped keep the threads in the aluminum tubes from getting too damaged. 

The threads all cleaned up nicely.  I did obtain some ¼” grub screws just in case I needed to increase the size a bit.  But, in the end they weren’t needed.  Being in a first world country has supply advantages.  As does possessing a good supply of spares and a decent arsenal of tools to make repairs along the way.

Moving Along

The staysail, whisker stays and intermediate shrouds were now complete and reinstalled on Dazzler.  Next up for replacement were both of the upper shrouds.  So up the mast I go.  This time all the way to the top.  Dazzler has two parallel folding steps about four feet from the top of the mast.  This allows the rigger to stand easily while working on the masthead.  I use a tether to tie around the mast and my waist to free up both hands while working. 

I first had to remove the masthead plate.  The shrouds both have stemball fittings on the top end of the wire which means the shroud must be pulled through the top of the masthead to remove it.  The starboard side slid right out.  Once it was removed I lowered it down to the crew down below.  The crew consisted of Best Mate Jilly and our neighbor, Tony, of SV Omarsea.  

The stemball fitting on the top of the port shroud had other ideas than being removed.  Apparently, little things like dissimilar metals decided to join the party.  It would appear that the aluminum material of the mast and the stainless steel fitting had created a little electrolysis corrosion during their time together making an easy removal more difficult.  Memory power engaged.  

I decided to ask Tony to grab a wrench and start applying a twist in the wire rope.  I also used a pair of pliers in one hand applying additional twist to the shroud while tapping the top of the stemball fitting.  The tapping was more like pounding.  Needless to say the stemball finally relented and broke free of the electrolysis bond with the aluminum and the shroud was easily removed.  When I reinstall the new shroud I’ll coat the upper fitting with some Tefgel to prevent any future corrosion.  And now off to the rig shop for replacement. 

Other Projects Along the Way

While at the mast head I applied some McLube spray to the sheeves in the masthead sheeve boxes.  I discovered that two of the sheeves in the forward box were frozen and didn’t move.  This explained a lot as one of them had the jib halyard running over it.  The last time we had hoisted the jib it was very difficult to pull up.  Now the little light has gone on.  Add another project to this job before completion.  It will have to be done tomorrow while waiting for the shrouds to return.

I first decided that I’d replace the jib halyard with a spare halyard we had onboard.  The old halyard was Dacron 1/2” double braid and may have been about a millimeter too thick and with a splice, even thicker still.  Perhaps the extra width may have caused the sheeve to spread open and wedge against the sides of the sheeve box.  Unknown, but for now I was going to use smaller diameter line in one of the unused working sheeves.  

Before heading up the mast for this job, I tied a messenger line to the tail of the existing halyard.  Once at the masthead, I pulled the existing halyard out of the sheeve box until the messenger line was present.  I then moved the messenger line over to the unused working sheeve and attached the replacement halyard to it.  Jilly pulled the messenger line down until the tail of the halyard was present and made it fast to a cleat.  Next?

Once the upper shrouds were ready they were easily put back into place with a simple trip up the mast.  Now it was time to prepare to head back up the mast to remove the fore and aft stays.  But first we had to detach the foot of the forestay/jib roller furling from the bowsprit.  The back stay was also detached at its foot.  With those done and secured it was time for another trip up the mast.  Once aloft, I attached a halyard to the top upper end of the backstay, removed the Clevis pin and lowered it down to the deck crew.  

I used a Prusik knot to secure a lifting halyard to the roller furling tube to lift and lower the rig once its clevis pin was removed.  Through a coordinated effort the lowering of the roller furling tube and forestay worked flawlessly.  Once on the dock, it was easily disassembled.  In fact, it was much easier than the staysail disassembly.  Nice!  Off to the rigging shop with the insulated back stay, forestay and the bobstay.

Good News?

A few days later, I received a call from Matthew advising that a defective crown ring would need to be replaced on one of the swageless fittings of one backstay insulator.  In 2009, during the last rigging replacement, I installed two Hi-Mod backstay insulators with swageless fittings.  They are also known as Petersen insulators.  The internet is an invaluable tool for finding what you need once you wade through a mile or two of bullshit.  

With shipping prices excessively high from the US to New Zealand, I found a company in the UK, Jimmy Green Marine. An incredible rigging supplier with everything one could want including replacement crown rings for my insulators.  Four new crown rings including shipping to New Zealand was about $125.00 USD.  From one company in the US, the same purchase with shipping was going to be about $400.00 USD.  Suffice it to say I went with Jimmy Green Marine and I had my replacement bits in about 10 days.  My last FedEx priority shipment of an envelope was about three weeks.  A considerable difference of time and money. (Note: When getting things shipped to New Zealand…Do NOT use Federal Express! DHL seems to be the best & most cost effective.)

Everything was now all back together.  Time to break out the band and tune it all up.  With my trusty Loos gauge, I set to tuning the rig.  A little twist here and there with a little time invested and it was all set.  It was now time to pin the turnbuckles.  A good friend turned me onto a very cool way to pin your turnbuckles.  Instead of split pins or rings he used stainless steel welding rod.  It bends easily and secures the upper and lower studs together at the same time.  Just bend the tail pieces and you’re done.  A very simple and easy way to secure your rig tuning.  There will still need to be a dynamic check of the rig tuning, but that will have to wait for another day.  

That’s it sports fans.  Up and down the mast a couple of dozen times for exercise.  There was some boat yoga at the masthead.  No injuries and a few extra maintenance issues added in to keep it all real.  I think it’s Steinlager time.

Until the next adventure or project, make all your dreams boat dreams.  Cheers!

Captain Dan

For more maintenance articles and tips from Captain Dan be sure to go to the Captain’s Toolbag…Click Here!