Drowning In Goodbyes
New Zealand

Drowning In Goodbyes

Someone once told me that you can’t start a new adventure unless you bring the current one to an end. Sure sounds reasonable and practical but in reality, ending a remarkable adventure that’s been filled with stunning places and some of the nicest people on earth is a whole lot easier said than done. Over the past few weeks we’ve literally been drowning in goodbyes as we end our New Zealand adventure and prepare to cast off our lines and make our way north toward Fiji.

You see, it was never our plan to spend three years here. When we arrived in November of 2018 after crossing from Mexico we planned to spend six months and then move on to Fiji and Australia. As it turns out we had purchased a car while we were here and we didn’t get it sold before we left so we decided since we really like this place we’d come back for one more season.

After six months in Tonga and Fiji in 2019 we arrived back in New Zealand in November of that year with the same plan….just six months and then we were definitely moving on. Then, in March of 2020 the world turned upside down. The “Vid” hit and we were locked within New Zealand’s borders. Well, actually, we could have flown back home but the New Zealand government would not have let us back in to get our floating home. We know more than a few cruisers who ended up in that very boat and we just weren’t sailing down that waterway.

The good news is that by being “Covid Hostages” as our dear friend Allan calls us, we got the opportunity to experience so much more of this incredible country than we ever could have had we followed our original plan. Of course, like everyone else in the world, we experienced lockdowns that prevented us from doing things for a few months but because of their overly strict policies we also were released from lockdowns pretty quickly compared to the rest of the world. That allowed us the opportunity to travel the country rather freely in 2020 and 2021.

One If By Land

Our travels throughout this marvelous country started with road trips. Some were just simply “day trips to nowhere” in which we had absolutely no set destination so we’d just get in the car and drive. For a time I was on a waterfall hunt. We’d seek out the best waterfalls and hikes around so I could photograph them. Then it was the flora and fauna and then it was museums. Honestly, I think we’ve seen more of the land, parks and museums in this country than most Kiwis who were born and raised here ever will. (Note: We’re working on a coffee table book full of photographs from these incredible journeys so stay tuned.)

Orewa Falls
Orewa Falls

Other trips were thoroughly planned and much longer. This included a three week trip from Whangarei on North Island down to Queenstown on the southern part of South Island and back. It was a whirlwind adventure with great friends who flew in from the States in 2019. In three weeks we got to see everything from beautiful beaches to farmland to the Southern Alps and more. We also took a fabulous two week driving trip from Tauranga up to the Coromandel Peninsula then south to Taupo and then up to Tauranga again.

Click Here To Read About Our Queenstown Adventures

And, we loved Queenstown so much that when the initial lockdowns ended in 2020 we flew down with our friends, Lutz & Gabi, of SV SuAn to spend some time enjoying a little winter weather for a change. Of course we found out that what we always believed was true….snow is beautiful to look at but we are warm weather animals.

Two If By Sea

As for sailing, we’ve didn’t do a whole lot of that here. You see, like many who sail here we had boat projects and maintenance in mind. By the time we sailed from Mexico to New Zealand we all had a few items to deal with such as bottom paint, replacing broken parts etc… And, New Zealand is known for her excellent marine industry filled with great tradespeople. There’s also the fact that by the time we got here we were ready to fly home to visit our families we hadn’t seen in close to a year.

We flew home twice. Both times were in February which, ironically, is the warmest and most beautiful month of the year. That being the case we sort of missed out on the good sailing times but nothing beats going home to visit with family and friends so it was worth it.

We did manage to get in some sailing in 2021 when we circumnavigated North Island. We spent a few weeks in the Bay of Islands as we headed up the east coast. Now, I’m sure there are cruisers who will curse me for saying this but honestly, the Bay of Islands really wasn’t all that wonderful in our opinion. In fact, we found it quite overcrowded with a good bit of crime. 

One afternoon we actually sat at a restaurant in Russell and watched as two men started looking over our tender and messing with the fuel tank to see if they could easily get it out. Imagine their surprise when we showed up on the dock.

If you’re going to travel in this area be sure to keep your things locked up and always use a lock and chain to secure your tender at the docks. And yes, we did report this to the local police and provided a photograph to them. Seems dingy thefts are pretty common in the Bay of Islands.

The guys who were trying to nick our fuel tank. That’s Sparkle there in the yellow chaps.

But it wasn’t just the criminal element and the overcrowding, we just didn’t feel like it was all that spectacular. Don’t get me wrong. It is beautiful and if you want to hike mountains then I’m sure you’ll love it there but for us, we prefer fishing and snorkeling. We did get in some great fishing but swimming there….no way! First of all, at an average of 20°C (68° F) in the summer, the water was far too cold for us and secondly, we pulled into bays where there were dozens of Bronzie (aka Copper) sharks swimming around the boat because the tourist boats come into the bays and feed them. So, needless to say the Bay of Islands just wasn’t our cup of tea.

These suckers can get to 2.4 meters (close to 8 feet) ©Dajiu Azuma

The absolute most beautiful sailing we did was once we arrived in Marlborough Sounds. I can’t even begin to tell you how spectacular it was in the sounds. It was so completely remote that it was easy to feel like we were sailors of old exploring new and uncharted territory. We’re actually quite surprised that so few international cruisers make the trip. Yes, the trip down the west coast of North Island can seem daunting but for us it was a breeze. And, as far as we’re concerned, sailing Marlborough Sounds is “the best sailing experience” in New Zealand.

A captivating sunrise in the Sounds.

Those Amazing Kiwis

Yes, there’s astounding beauty to be found here but none of it comes close to being as special and wonderful as the Kiwi people themselves. It’s nearly impossible to explain the incredible hearts and spirits these people possess. Living here has been like living in the USA forty years ago. The people are kind and welcoming and would do just about anything to help a stranger. 

Coming from the chaotic and often hostile world of the west it was actually a bit unsettling until we got used to it. I mean, when’s the last time you went into a store looking for something but they were out of it so the store clerk got on the phone and called their competitor to see if they could help you? And that’s not a once in a while thing, it’s a regular occurrence here.

When you drop off a part for repair or even clothing to be altered it’s actually quite uncommon for them not to give you a claim check. In fact, we’ve seen them write our phone number on the back of some scratch paper and put it in their pocket as they walk away with our alternator or other parts saying, “Don’t worry Mate, I’ll have that back to you in a few days.” That was truly disconcerting at first. But, never once did we have an issue. It’s just how they do business. You know, the old fashioned way.

Aside from the great experiences we’ve had with businesses we’ve found that getting to know the locals on a more personal level made our experience here simply magical. Of course we always lean toward spending time with the locals rather than the other cruisers. After all, if we wanted to hang out on boats with cruisers we could do that without ever leaving the US. For us our travel is about being fully immersed in the culture and community. To that end, we make a concerted effort to get to know as many locals as we can.

Drowning in Goodbyes

When you live the gypsy lifestyle you find that the best part is seeing new things and meeting new people. The worst part is when you have to say, “Goodbye”. Most of the time it’s a bit easier because we’re in a place for such a short time that we really don’t get a chance to know people very well. This time, however, we’ve been here for three years and we have had to say our goodbyes to people who have become like family.

In preparation to leave we’ve found ourselves making our way around town saying goodbye to so many friends. There’s the team at Jimmy Jacks, the place where we get the steak on a hot stone. We barely missed a week without stopping in for dinner. Then there’s Mike, Lauren and the crew at Roost. It’s a relatively new restaurant in Whangarei that serves American style fried chicken and we love it. Mike and Lauren became fast friends. 

Of course I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention our dear friends Allan and Joan of Wynn Frasier Paints or Chuck and Lauri on SV Free Spirit or Ian and Rachael of SV Gypsy Lane. And there’s Jemma at Loco Tapas Bar in the Quay. And still there’s the crew at White Cross who have taken such good care of us while we’ve been living here. Yes, it seems everywhere we go there’s someone else we have to say our goodbyes to and it’s really taking its toll on us…especially me. I’m just not good at goodbyes.

A Party For Us?

I guess you know you’ve become part of the community when the locals actually throw a going away party for you. Yes, our wonderful friends at Frings arranged a fabulous afternoon get together in our honor.

Frings is a pub that sits across the street from the marina. It’s not typically a pub where you’ll find most cruisers but then, we aren’t most cruisers. From the first day we wandered in for a cold beer we were welcomed by these kind and generous locals. Dave was our first Frings friend. We hit it off instantly as he and Dan began busting on each other and cracking jokes. Because of Dave we came back again and again and each time we met more and more people.

Left to Right…Haydz & Kermie (The New Owners) and Gary & Mel (The Previous Owners) Note the Dazzler sticker on the door just above the Harley one….We won’t let them forget us.

Wonderful Kiwis who even brought us fresh wild turkey meat on several occasions. Thanks Jeff & Rita!

All of these great people have such warm hearts and we will truly miss them. Thirty or more people turned out for the event and they even prepared some homestyle Kiwi cooking for us. Who would have believed when we stopped in there on a sunny day three years ago that we’d end up with such great friends? I cannot lie….as we walked away that afternoon tears streamed down my face. These fine folks have become a part of our daily lives. Saying goodbye to them was one of the hardest things we’ve done.

Frings Group Shot
Such an awesome group of people!

In addition to all of the locals who have become friends, there is our incredibly special Kiwi family that took us in like shelter mutts and gave us a home base…a place to get off the boat from time to time, a place to spend the holidays and most importantly the love of a wonderful family. Sean and Donna and their family truly went above and beyond to make us feel loved and welcome. Saying goodbye to them was another tearful experience.

Our Kiwi family from Brown’s Bay!

The Final Goodbyes

Tony & Nicky of SV Omarsea

Leaving the dock to head down to Marsden Cove Marina to begin looking for the right weather window presented us with yet another tearful goodbye. You see, our dear friends and dock mates, Tony and Nicky of SV Omarsea were always right there to help with the lines, chat or just smile and wave as we walked by. If Tony was on their boat when we came or left the dock he was always there to grab a line for us. He and Dan spent untold hours cussing and discussing boat projects. We always enjoyed spending time chatting with them and sipping a cool beverage whether it was in their cockpit or ours. They most definitely are two of the finest neighbors we could have ever had. It’s an honor to call them our friends.

But, the most tearful and distressing goodbye we had to say was to our very dear friends Lutz & Gabi of SV SuAn. We met in Mexico in 2018 and have sailed together in French Polynesia, Niue, Tonga, Fiji and New Zealand. We’ve spent holidays together and celebrated birthdays together. They were even there the night Dan proposed to me in Havelock during our time sailing in Marlborough Sounds last year.

Lutz and Gabi aren’t just friends….they truly have become cherished family. But, as things happen they are now headed to Indonesia and we are headed west to Australia. Saying goodbye to them means we will likely never see them again in this life. Oh how I dreaded the day. We were already at Marsden Cove Marina awaiting our weather window so we rented a car to go back in to Whangarei for some final provisioning and one last afternoon with the two people who have made our South Pacific cruising so much more enjoyable.

We weren’t even in the car five minutes when the tears started welling up in my eyes. I did my best to keep it under control because I knew if I didn’t I would never make it through the day. We picked up our dear friends and took them to do a little provisioning then headed out for one last pizza at Parua Bay Tavern. We had the most enjoyable afternoon chatting about old times, talking about each of our future plans, laughing and just being together. 

You can always count on Dan & Lutz wearing their “Brother Shirts” they got in Fiji in 2019

Of course, as I said when I started this article…. “You can’t start a new adventure if you don’t end the one you’re on” and our new adventures are going in opposite directions. As we neared the boatyard where they have their boat you could feel a distinct feeling of melancholy wafting through the air. The conversation slowed and the feelings took over. By the time we reached the gate I was fighting back the tears. I got out of the car and when Lutz wrapped his arms around me the floodgates opened and Niagra Falls poured down my cheeks onto his shoulders. 

Sure going to miss these two amazing humans!

I may have been the only one actually crying but everyone’s eyes were misty and the mood was solemn. We tried to lighten it with laughter and the thought that just maybe we’d meet up again in this crazy world but we all felt it….the stinging sadness of goodbye. There were many hugs and we took one last selfie of the four of us together before we got in the car. The last image in my mind of these amazing friends was them standing at the gate smiling and waving.

This was the last big goodbye here in New Zealand. Thank the Lord! I just don’t think I can handle another one. No, I’m ready for some cheerful bulas, halos and g’days in Fiji, Vanuatu and Australia. I’m ready to see the joyful, welcoming faces of the islanders as we sail into an anchorage. Yes, it’s time to say goodbye to goodbyes for a while….it’s time for hellos!

Until next time,

Jilly

Brilliant Day In Whangarei
2022, April 2022, New Zealand, Whangarei

Brilliant Day In Whangarei

We’ve spent months preparing Dazzler for our upcoming journey from New Zealand to Fiji and two an a half years waiting for this time to finally arrive. There’s no doubt we are definitely ready to move on but before we cast off our lines and say our final goodbyes we decided we needed to spend one last brilliant day exploring Whangarei.

Living in this town of around 90,000 people has been quite the experience for both of us. First of all, we never meant to have it feel like home, rather more like an extended vacation spot. Of course the “Vid” had other plans for us and, quite frankly, that’s okay. If the recent pandemic did anything good it gave us an opportunity to get to know New Zealand in ways many Kiwis never will.

It also gave us the opportunity to really get to know the little gem known as Whangarei. Whangarei is a quaint and diverse little city with a lot of culture and beauty. She’s got dazzling parks, walking and bike trails that skirt the fabulous basin as well as traverse lush forests filled with waterfalls and giant Kauri trees. There’s some fabulous restaurants and pubs, a little shopping and just about everything a yachtie could need in terms of tradespeople and supplies.

Comprised of approximately 70% Europeans, 25% Māori and 5% other nationalities such as Pacific Islanders, Asians etc…we’ve found the people here to be truly fantastic. They are kind and most will go out of their way to help you with whatever you need. Yes, living here for the past few years has been a wonderful experience. 

So, on this, our final full day in the area, we’ve decided to spend our time visiting our favorite haunts as well as the brand new Hundertwasser Museum that we’ve watched being built here in the Town Basin. Yes, one last walk around town just to soak it all in before we cast off our lines and head to Marsden Cove to await our weather window.

The Rolling Ball Clock

One thing we love about Whangarei and New Zealand in general is their amazing use of outdoor spaces. The parks and walkways in and around the cities are truly special. Here in Whangarei they seem to have this obsession with clocks. There’s the Clapham’s Clock Museum behind the marina office that has a giant sundial in front of it.

Atop of the marina office is the black time ball time keeper where each day at noon the ball slides down the spire. It is a symbolic connection between the area’s maritime history and its maritime future, as represented by the cruising community on the Hatea River.

And now, there’s the new About Time Rolling Ball Clock right beside the playground and clock museum. Now this clock is actually something to see. It took 14 years to come into existence. The last two of which were the actual building and trial phase. The folks over at Absolute Stainless built it and it is truly fascinating. This “rolling ball” kinetic sculpture sits inside a glass enclosure that is topped with an stainless steel waved roof.

The sculpture is comprised of 35 “bowling balls” that run along stainless steel tracks. In one corner you have the the sculpture of a female peddling away. As she peddles the balls are lifted up a chain elevator and then dropped onto various tracks. They roll, twist, turn, do loop the loops, banked curves and more. Eventually the balls land on time teeter totters. There is one teeter totter that illustrates the hour, two for the minutes and one for seconds.

By looking at the balls in the trays you can tell the time. It’s really very fascinating to watch. I could literally sit there all day watching it. Click here to see a live feed of the clock in action.

A Tasty Treat At The Butter Factory

A cold beer at Split is a great way to waste a little time.

Next we were off to the Butter Factory for some lunch but we arrived a tad early so we ended up stopping at Split just around the corner where we had a beer and bought some time. We have enjoyed eating here too as they have great salads and incredible wings but my favorite meal in all of Whangarei is at the Butter Factory and if I am going to enjoy one last meal in the area then it’s got to be there. 

The Butter Factory has become a true favorite of ours for the historical building, great staff and truly amazing food. Built in 1905 this building was actually used as a butter factory; hence the name. The stone floors are uneven and sloping reminding you that this is a very old building. Constructed of basalt blocks (volcanic rock blocks) and huge wooden beams made from Kauri trees this place reminds me of the inside of an old European castle. There’s a wonderful outdoor patio area that’s under cover and they even have a stage where they host bands on the weekends. 

Today it’s a bit rainy out but it’s still warm enough to warrant sitting outside. We arrive early enough so as to beat the lunch crowd. I’m nearly drooling just thinking of the meal that I’ll be having. For me, my favorite is the spicy chicken sandwich but I opt to forgo the bread so they put the spicy chicken on a bed of greens and then drizzle chipotle mayo over it. Around the plate they scatter a few jalepeno poppers. It is sooooooo good!

For Dan, it’s the creamy garlic prawns over garlic bread, topped with cheese and bacon. I think we’ve both had the exact same meal the last dozen times we’ve been in here. And, honestly, that’s a bit crazy because they have so many other fabulously tasty dishes to choose from. In fact, if you ever get here you should try their Butter Burger. This sandwich is epic with slow cooked brisket, a cajun chicken breast, slaw and a deep fried pickle. I mean really….it’s a meat lover’s dream and it’s loaded with flavor. 

As expected they did not disappoint. We enjoyed our last meal here chatting with the staff who we have come to know quite well. Our feast here was one to be truly savored. When we were done the staff wished us a fond farewell as we headed out for our next stop.

No Straight Lines

A short walk back through town and we arrived at the newly opened Hundertwasser Museum and Art Centre. Now, to fully appreciate this place you really need to know a bit about Friedensreich Hundertwasser. He was a famed architect, artist, painter and true friend of the planet. Born in Vienna, Austria in 1928 it wasn’t until he was fifty-five years old that he started designing buildings. Prior to that he was a painter and artist. 

If you look closely you will see the grounds around the building are undulating

As you can see from the building here in Whangarei he was one who detested straight lines. Even the floors in and around the museum are undulating. He once said, “rolling floors are a melody to the feet”. He thought flat floors were unnatural and disconnected humans from the earth. He actually believed straight lines were evil and the downfall of humanity. Yes, he was the typical oddball artist. But, that said, he did create some very interesting paintings as well as thirty-five buildings around the world that are absolutely fascinating.

Hundertwasser moved to New Zealand in the seventies and purchased some land where he could live off grid for the most part. In Kawakawa, a town just outside of Opua, you’ll find the Hundertwasser Toilets. Yes, I said, “toilets”. We’ve been by there but never could go in because it was undergoing a giant reconstruction. The toilets were commissioned by the local council as a way to grab some tourists on their way up to Opua. 

Unfortunately he died at sea in 2000 and was not alive to see the museum here in Whangarei or the beautiful park that was created around it. Having watched the construction here over the past three years we weren’t going to leave until we took a stroll through it. So, after lunch we decided to take a look.

In the bottom floor of the museum there is a Māori exhibit which, sadly, we found to be of little interest. There are so many talented Māori artists in this country and the handful of exhibits in this room were quite frankly, just not very good. We’ve heard that the reason for this is that with the Covid delays in construction many of those who planned to exhibit their pieces here pulled out and put their work in other museums so hopefully as time goes on this exhibit will get better.

The second floor houses a restaurant called Aqua. We haven’t eaten there but we did stop in for a pint not long after they opened. The view across the marina from the outside tables is lovely but quite frankly the menu just doesn’t appeal to us. With things like rabbit ribs and Vietnamese omelettes filled with shrimp, crispy pork and peanuts or oysters at $5 NZD a piece, this just isn’t a place we decided to try. But, if that’s your thing then you’d probably enjoy it and you’re sure to love the views. 

The third floor is where the interesting paintings and artwork of Friedensreich Hundertwasser are on display. As I said, he’s a bit out there….sort of like Picasso in a way, so the paintings were a little strange as well but, nevertheless, they were interesting to view. He had a very energetic style filled with lots of color.

One of Hundertwasser’s signature elements in buildings is the living rooftop and this museum is no exception. In fact, this building hosts the largest living rooftop in the Southern Hemisphere. 540 cubic meters of soil were lifted to its rooftop before the plantings arrived. 

The Golden Tit of Whangarei

From the roof you can see all of the basin and the town of Whangarei. On the northeast corner of the roof there is, as Dan affectionately refers to it, the Golden Tit of Whangarei. It’s the 3.5 ton cupola that crowns the tower and it’s actually covered in $50,000 NZD of real gold leaf. 

What’s really interesting about this is that tile layers were tasked with abandoning what they know about tiling to create something truly different. There is not a single straight line of tile or brick in the entire place! Workers were given creative freedom to do what they thought fit the building. Some added Māori style artwork, others paid tribute to Hundertwasser himself and still others saluted the sailing community. In every corner there’s something unique about the structure.

All this said, you can see the museum in about a half hour…maybe an hour if you really take your time. The entrance fee is $21unless you are a local resident. Honestly we felt it was a bit high for what you got but I guess they to find some way to recoup the $33 million they spent building it. As Dan said, the place is really about the building itself and, well, you can see that all day for free. Anyway, we’re happy we took the time to stop in before we left.

It’s A Wrap

Frings Button

After our stop at the museum we needed to stop by Frings to pick up our personalized beer mugs and, of course, have one last beer with our friends there. There weren’t many people there as it was still early but it was nice to see Haydz one last time. 

As we strolled along the quay looking at the restaurants and shops, watching the kids play in the new fountains and on the playground I felt as if we were saying goodbye, not only to the people here in Whangarei but to an entire way of life. Don’t get me wrong, I’m ready to move on but this place will always be very near and dear to my heart.

Views from atop of the Hundertwasser tower.

We took one last photo on the Victoria Canopy Bridge where we were married and from there it was back to Dazzler to prepare for our departure the following morning. 

Until next time, 

Jilly