Tag: New Zealand

Perilous Ride To Port Jackson
Coromandel Peninsula, June 2021, New Zealand, North Island, Port Jackson

Perilous Ride To Port Jackson

We awoke this morning to another rainy day but we will not allow this to dampen our spirits. Nope, we have places to explore and today we’re off to see Port Jackson at the northern tip of the Coromandel Peninsula.

The Coromandel Peninsula is a rugged landscape with mountains, beaches and few paved roads so to reach our destination we drive from our BnB on the eastern side of the peninsula across to Coromandel Town on the western coast. From here there is one road that leads north to Port Jackson. Having never been here and honestly having not done much research other than to look at a map on Google, we had no idea what we were in for on this trip.

Highway 25 takes us to the western coast and from there we take Port Jackson road north. The road begins as we expected….paved and solid and wide enough for passing traffic. The rains are falling a bit harder by this time and as we make our way further and further north the road becomes narrower and narrower not to mention it goes from paved to dirt, or should I say mud?

A Time For Bravery

Now, I’m a pretty brave gal and I love a good adventure but when traveling in the pouring down rain on a narrow, muddy and slippery road that is skirting the edge of cliffs where the ocean is 75-100 meters below, I tend to get a bit on edge so to speak. Yes, I trust my professional driver and I know he knows what he’s doing but I would be lying to you if I said my heart wasn’t in my throat a few dozen times as I felt the car sliding on the slick mud trail beneath us. My audible gasps have been a source of frustration for poor Dan. I think he thinks they mean I don’t trust him. I do! I honestly do, but accidents happen even to the best of drivers right?

When I’m not holding my breath, putting the death grip on the seat or pumping the imaginary brakes I do take the time to enjoy some of the spectacular scenery outside my window. Even in the rain it is truly breathtaking. The ocean is relatively calm with low clouds lingering above the emerald green waters. Small waves roll softly onto the shores below leaving a thin line of white foam behind.

The clouds are so low that once we begin climbing the mountain we find ourselves enveloped in them. I finally start to enjoy it as we are moving more inland and no longer clinging to the side of the cliff. I actually start to breathe a bit more normally but alas it will not last as the foray to the inner part of the peninsula lasts but a short time. Before I know it we are skirting the ocean again. The only bonus is that we are now at the shoreline and no longer hanging from the cliffs.

Port Jackson & Some Wildlife Too!

The further north we go the more remote it becomes. We see quail and even a few pheasant along the way. Of course we also come across cattle and more than a few sheep. I do love all the wildlife and the way we can get so close to it here. Dan begins to become a bit frustrated with my constant requests to stop but as always he grants my wishes. I swear he is so good to me.

Port Jackson
Port Jackson Beach

Arrival at Port Jackson was a relief and yet somewhat of a let down. Now, I’m sure if we’d have arrived on a beautiful, sunny day when we could have done a little hiking it would have been a different feeling. But, here we are standing on a beach in the rain.

Call me cynical but I’ve been on more than one beach in the rain in my life and they all sort of look the same….gloomy, wet and cold. Of course we aren’t the type of people to look at the negative side of things so as always we say…..”It’s not the destination….it’s the journey and the journey was an adventure.”

With the rain getting worse we hop into the car for the perilous ride back down Port Jackson Road to Coromandel Town. On the way we see several slips where rock and mud have fallen down the mountain onto the road. These weren’t here on the way north so we’re both ready to get this little trip behind us. With no cell reception and few houses we certainly do not want to find ourselves stuck out here because the road is blocked.

Coromandel Town

The ride back to Coromandel Town seems to take a lot less time than the ride up. Why is it that it always feels that way? Anyway, after our trip we decide it’s time to stop for a bite to eat. We find a cute little place to stop called the Umu Cafe & Restaurant. Much to our surprise they cook up a great “American style” pizza. This is something pretty difficult to find in the land of the Kiwis where they put things like BBQ sauce and squid on pizza. They also serve up some ice cold beer which, after this trip, is very welcome.

Coromandel Town
A dramatic shot of the main street in Coromandel Town. The rains are coming and it’s going to get ugly!

We arrive back at our BnB and are met with Evan who says he and Muriel would like to have us join them for cocktails this evening. What a lovely invitation.

A few hours later we are sitting in their beautiful living room enjoying some wine, nibbles and fabulous conversation. He’s a Kiwi, she a Scot and we absolutely adore them! Muriel is quite the artist who makes exquisite mosaic mirrors. She gives me a tour of her studio and a peak into her supply closet that is filled with broken china, tiles, shells….you name it. I only wish we were staying longer so I could have an opportunity for her to show me how to make one of these incredible pieces.

A couple of Muriel’s mirrors that were in our room….stunning…just stunning!

Evan is an artist in his own right with a workshop that houses all the cool tools you’d need to do woodworking or metal work. He actually designed and built the railing on the wooden deck outside of our room. Both are truly wonderful people and we completely enjoy our evening with them. The evening ends with hugs and kisses and we feel amazing knowing we’ve made two new incredible friends. If we ever make it back to the Coromandel we will definitely be looking them up.

Tomorrow we head back across the peninsula to Driving Creek Railway and Waiua Falls for some hiking. I actually think Dan is relaxing a bit too which is a blessing. Stay tuned for more fun stuff to come.

Until next time,

Jilly

Missed Day #1 of our journey? Click here to get caught up.

Port Jackson Map
April 2021, New Zealand

Sometimes God Smiles On The Stupid

Sign me up for that.  You have surely noticed by now that there really isn’t a book in print that tells us exactly what to do in different situations.  Would we heed its advise even if such a book existed?  You know Life for Dummies,  Sailing For Dummies, Weather for Dummies, etc…  An emphatic, No!  Why not?  Why do we have to be our very own Darwin Awards Nominee?  Wouldn’t life be so much easier if there were instructions?  Things like, “That stove is going to be hot after you cook something”.  Or, “If you fall and break a leg, don’t come running to me.”  Some things are just more obvious than others and I believe that provides for the occasional moment when sometimes God smiles on the stupid.

We last left you dear friends as we put out to sea after getting our butts kicked by that nasty fast moving 996 hectopascal low pressure in Tolaga Bay.  We left that bay in our wake and headed north toward another unknown adventure.  Rounding the East Cape.  I hope we have enough Charmin with us.   

It was about 1530 hours and we had ruined our dinner plans for a home cooked fiesta of an empanada stove top experiment from the lovely and talented future Mrs. Morrison.  Look at her there with her hair shoved under that cap.  Outfitted in her ever stylish red and black West Marine foul weather gear looking for a photo shoot.  Her angst look of no sleep from the droopy eyes has that wild ride in the bunk look from the previous night that I’d like to take credit for, but alas it was the storm that kept her awake.  Well that, along with being magically elevated above the bunk mattress like a David Copperfield performance.  Only there weren’t any hoops or wires.  It was the sheer energy from the force of the storm swells pounding down upon us.  Yes, I’m guessing it was one hundred percent unadulterated exhaustion.  If only I’d have know she didn’t like it,  I could have unplugged the pony ride and turned it all off.  If only it had been that easy.

We gathered our thoughts, attacked the weather sites for a closer look as we left Tolaga Bay and Internet access.  Perhaps if we listened closely we might have even heard the captain on the Jungle Safari ride at Disneyland telling everyone to wave goodbye to our friends left standing on the shore.  

What?  Wait a minute?  Are we sure we want to take this boat ride?

As it turns out, the weather was going to work in our favor.  At least according to several prediction sites.  In fact it may even afford us a longer clear passage between East Cape and the Mercury Islands at the northern edge of the Coromandel Peninsula.  

Sometimes God Smiles On The Stupid

We arrived at eastern edge of East Cape at about 0130 hours.  Not what I originally hoped for…we were about 12 hours ahead of schedule.  I was expecting to be on watch from our departure from Tolaga Bay until 2300 hours.  But, I got a reprieve when Jilly, dressed in her foulies and ready for watch, greeted me from the companion way.  

I asked what she was doing and she replied it was 2300 hours.  I was fairly sure it was only about 2100 hours and checked several time keeping devices.  Needles to say, Jilly wasn’t very happy to be up dressed and ready for watch duties two hours earlier than needed.  Sure glad I wasn’t going to be on deck with her for the next few hours. Poor Grape Ape…there’s nothing worse than being on watch with a grumpy, sleep deprived mate. Sorry Buddy!

Knowing that under our regular watch schedule she would be the one at the helm as we steered around the eastern edge of East Cape, we decided that since she was already ready to go we would make a quick schedule change so I’d be awake to navigate the cape.  She took over the helm as I went down to get a few hours of lullaby time.    

At 0030 hours, I was up at the helm and she was off watch and left me to skipper Dazzler around a potentially dangerous cape.  We only experienced a few rough jumbled sea conditions while traversing across East Cape.  There was an occasional small pod of Common Dolphins and one well lit up fishing vessel along our travels along with a bright night sky and thousands of stars.  Orion and the Southern Cross stood out so vividly that it was hard not to stare at them for prolonged periods.

By 0900 hours, I was back on watch and we were clear the cape and any of the possible rips, currents or eddies that we could have experienced if the weather was a lot rougher. 

Our next target would be the Coromandel Peninsula about 120 miles to our west.  Although the winds were in our favor from the northeast along with the Pacific swell, the clouds overhead blocked the sunshine and blue sky.  Farther to the West we could see patches of blue sky that we hoped to see by late afternoon.

The Miles Stroll On By

With another overnight passage behind us we have completed motor sailing across the Bay of Plenty. By the way don’t fall in the water here. We’ve read of numerous stories of shark attacks in these waters. One included a Shark that literally leaped out of the sea and landed in a boat just a couple of months ago. The shark was almost as big as the Tinny it landed in.

This morning finds us passing through the Colville Channel.  Located between the southerly end of Great Barrier Island and the northern cape of the Coromandel Peninsula.  Jilly has taken over watch and seen lots of wildlife including a large raft of those darling little blue penguins.

Just a few more hours of motor sailing now and we will have nearly completed our circumnavigation of North Island New Zealand.  We’ll spend one night anchored at Uhrquharts Bay before making the final run up to Whangerie Town Basin Marina where we’ll enjoy a much deserved ice cold traditional anchor down beer.  Ahhhhhhhhhhh!

Until next time, enjoy life to the fullest and remember to tip your server.

Cheers!

Captain Dan