The dismantling of the freshwater tank is finished. Dazzler is in complete and total disarray and there’s nothing to do now but wait for the new tank to be manufactured. So, what do two adventurers with the longing to wander in their souls do? Well, we take off to explore the area by land. And so it is time to head off to the Coromandel Peninsula.
We’ve done a fair bit of traveling around this stunning country but the Coromandel is one area we’ve completely missed up until now. The drive up from Tauranga to our Air BnB would have been a little under four hours had we driven without stopping but then what kind of adventurers forgo stopping when there are so many great things to see along the way?
First Things First
Ryan at Hercules Tanks explains how the tanks are welded together.
Just because we’re heading out for a couple of weeks of R & R doesn’t mean Dan has completely forgotten about the work being done on Dazzler so our first stop after leaving Tauranga is in Katikati at Hercules Tanks. He is dying to see the facility where our new tanks are being manufactured.
We spoke with Jill and Frank, the owners, and also with Ryan who is one of their engineers. Ryan was kind enough to give us a tour of the facility and teach us exactly how these polypropylene tanks are created. Coming from a manufacturing family I’m always interested in seeing how things are made and, of course being somewhat of an engineer himself, Dan enjoys learning about manufacturing as well.
We were delighted with our tour and I think it gave Dan a sense of comfort that all will go well while we are off enjoying ourselves. Hopefully he will actually relax a little on this trip as there’s still a lot of work ahead of him upon our return.
Owharoa Falls
Tank facility tour complete we headed out to Owharoa Falls. I’m completely addicted to taking photographs of waterfalls and New Zealand has no shortage of them. These particular falls are touted as some of the nicest in the area so I told Dan we just had to stop. And, one nice thing is they are just a short three minute walk down a trail from the roadway. Even though it was a bit overcast and gloomy, they did not disappoint! I snapped a few dozen or so photos taken at just about every angle I could get and we were off again.
From here we headed back north on State Highway 25 toward Whitianga. (Pronounced Fit ē on ga or Wit ē on ga depending upon which Kiwi or Māori person you ask). Seems there is a great deal of debate about how to pronounce the “wh” in names and words here which is ironic since there are so many that begin with these two letters. For us we pronounce it the way the person we are speaking to does at the moment. Just seems easier that way.
The Drive North
The drive to Whitianga, however you choose to pronounce it, is a gorgeous drive. There are beautiful farms, mountains, ocean views and so much more. It is the beginning of winter here which means it’s also the rainy season. The hills and fields are literally glowing with green fauna that is so bright it is almost neon in color. The gloomy backdrop of grey skies and fog show them off in striking detail. I just can’t snap enough photos of this fabulous scenery. And even though the day is rainy we’re enjoying every moment.
Of course my love makes a few stops along the way for me to take my photographs and I also add some new images to my New Zealand at 100 km/hour collection that will appear in our upcoming book. We’re working on a coffee table book and this will be one of the chapters. It’s amazing how many great images you can get from a really good camera even while driving at high speeds. And, honestly, if we stopped each time I saw something I wanted to photograph we’d never have made it out of Whangarei.
We arrive in Whitianga and by this time we are famished so we locate a quaint little Irish pub called Grace O’Malley’s Irish Inn. We enjoy the view of the park and water while sipping on a couple of pints of Guinness and eating a tasty lunch. Then it’s off to the grocery store to pick up a few items to stock up our Air BnB. We like BnBs because we get tired of eating out so we always choose ones with kitchens that allow us the option of cooking meals in from time to time.
The Bush Studio Apartment….WOW!
The Bush Studio apartment we have chosen to make our home for the next few days is located just fifteen minutes outside of Whitianga in a little town called Kuaotunu.
Muriel and Evan’s place is simply delightful. This fabulous Air BnB is located in a valley deep within the forest. It’s remote while still being close to town and an easy drive to just about anything you want to do in the area. The home itself is a large octagon where the hosts live on the top floor and the BnB is located on the bottom floor. When you live on a boat sometimes it’s nice to stay in a different type of place for a while and this is perfect.
The unit itself has 180° of windows looking over the lush green forest with doors that open onto the beautiful wooden deck. From the deck you can see the the tops of the fern like Ponga trees which are some of my favorite trees in all of New Zealand. Below the deck you can hear the gurgling of the stream and at night you can even hear the screeching of the ever elusive Kiwi birds as they scurry about the forest floor. (Click to hear what they sound like.)
A beautiful sunrise as seen from our Air BnB
With no light pollution in the area, on a clear night, you can see the stars and the Milky Way just as clearly as we do on ocean passages. With a perfectly clear night this evening I am able to pick up a few interesting sky shots which is always a joy for me. Dan, on the other hand, has decided to turn in early. Poor dear is exhausted from the past couple of weeks. He’s definitely earned an early to bed night and maybe even a few naps along our journey.
The view from the deck on a clear night.
Yes, it looks like we chose the right BnB this time and we’re looking forward to staying here for the next few days as we explore the Coromandel. Tomorrow we are off to Port Jackson at the northern tip of the peninsula. Should be a fun trip with lots more to see in this dazzling part of New Zealand.
Here we are back in the peaceful village of Whangarei. We were hoping that the lion was sleeping tonight, but that isn’t happening. Every once in a while there is a boat project that needs to be addressed. You know the one that you put off as long as you can before it decides that you can’t wait anymore? Sometimes it hints to you in a subtle voice tempting you with how easy it won’t be. Then there are times that it screams at you with the urgency of a backed up septic tank. Our little darling of a task is somewhere in the middle. Our built-in freshwater, stainless steel storage tank has decided that it has been silent for too long. It has developed a nasty little leak and the welded edges have too much corrosion to control anymore. So, I say tanks a lot. NOT!
It’s a good thing we have finished our seasonal cruising and have started to settle down into the early signs of winter here in New Zealand. Time for projects to be completed and none other than the built-in stainless steel water tank has thrust itself to the top of the list. Needless to say Jilly is less than thrilled as she begins to understand the sheer scope of the task at hand.
Where do we start?
First of all we need to find a suitable replacement tank or locate a local tank fabricator. Señor Google search engine engaged. Warp factor five Mr. Google, if you please. Additionally, the coconut telegraph has been initiated as well with coconuts humming at maximum capacity across the North Island of New Zealand. With input from local, knowledgeable Kiwis and the internet, we locked our sights onto Hercules Tanks located in Katikati which is just southeast of Auckland.
I fired off an email and received a prompt reply from the owner Frank Aerts. Their freshwater tanks are made of polypropylene, to custom sized specifications. They are pressure tested, baffled and come with a CE certification of thickness. What more could one ask for? Frank also explained that the turn around time is about 10 working days from submitted order and payment. Without good measurements until after our existing tank is removed, he could only provide a rough estimate. The cost estimate was substantially lower than I had envisioned.
The rule of thumb regarding estimating the time or cost of boat projects is much like forecasting weather. It is not an exact science. You can and will be wrong at least 50% of the time. The magic formula goes something like this: The initial cost estimate plus tools; plus time; plus repairs for damage caused to things you didn’t intend to damage; plus medical costs for miscellaneous injuries; plus consumable supplies minus the learning curve; lodging; food and adult beverages. Add that all together, multiply times three, turn around three times and look to the east as you chant the magic words, “I hope that’s everything.”
Why does it have to be the water tank?
There is so much work needed to get to the water tank. Only half of the saloon floor boards are removable to gain access to a small portion of the built in tank. I’m sure that back in 1987 when Dazzler was being formed in the womb of the Union Yacht Company dropping the beautifully crafted stainless steel water tank was just that easy. Set it and forget it. Next the stringers were installed across the top of the tank to hold up the elevated teak and holly sole/floor boards. Then they built in all the bulkheads, settee, dining table, storage compartments, mast compression post, head, shower, doors and cabin top to name a few. A virtual jigsaw puzzle of fasteners, epoxy and fiberglass joints. The tank is under it all! AAAAAAWWWWWKKKKK! Where is the rum?
Basically this job, task or satanic ritual as it will come to be known as, will not be easy. In fact, I’m still asking myself if this is really necessary. The answer is still yes. Damn it! I can hear The Fiddler on the Roof singing, “If I were a rich man…….,” I’d pay someone to do this for me and go on a vacation for a month. But, since I was not born into that category, I’ll be the laborer/contractor assigned to this project. Okay, enough whining! Jilly is surely doing enough of that for the both of us.
My initial thought process was to buy all the equipment, tools and supplies and just go for it. Equipment rentals and safety equipment needed to be purchased and then there is the wild card of possibly injuring myself while using all the tools and dealing with the sharp edges of the freshly cut steel tank. Thank goodness I came to my senses and justified hiring someone with boat building experience and the necessary tools to cut out my old tank.
I called Frank at Hercules Tanks and he suggested that I contact Heath at B.M. Services in Tauranga. Heath indicated that he was busy, but should be able to fit us into his schedule. All I needed to do is send him some photographs of Dazzler’s interior tank areas. We also sent some photos of our last haul out to Tauranga Marine Society Marina to assist the lift operator with lift strap placements. Jilly found us a great Air B&B close by so we had a place to stay while while I worked on getting the tank out and cleaning up the bilge. The building blocks of the tank replacement plan were starting to fall in place.
Prior to departing Whangarei, I decided to get as many of the consumables needed to complete the tank replacement project. It’s not that we couldn’t get them in Tauranga but here we already knew the vendors. I planned to clean and paint the bilge area under the old tank before the new tank was installed. We figured that we might as well give Dazzler a fresh coat of bottom paint while she’s out of the water as well. We needed to get the bottom paint, bilge paint and primer, lumber to repair the stringers that needed to be cut, plumbing supplies for the tank fittings and a couple cases of beer. Ha ha ha!
The Journey to Tauranga
With all the arrangements in place the time came to make the two day passage from Whangerei to Tauranga. The trip would take us southeast down the coast past Great Barrier Island and into the Bay of Plenty where we would find Tauranga. The first day was a pretty long one. We left around 1030 hours, just before high tide. We had some communication issues with the bridge operator at the Hatea River Bridge which costs us a half hour or so but the rest of the trip was brilliant.
We spent that evening at an anchorage called Cooks Bay which is inside the larger Mercury Bay. We were the only boat in the anchorage and the beach was pretty deserted. Of course we are in the beginning of winter here and most of the bachs on the beach are holiday residences for Kiwis. Given the cold weather it is understandable that they were mostly empty.
The following day we departed at first light to make certain we arrived in Tauranga at slack tide. This marina is what is referred to as a tidal marina meaning you need to time entry and exit on the tides as strong currents and big tidal swings are the norm. The right timing for entrance or exit can make all the difference.
On the way down we came across a large bait ball bubbling on top of the ocean. Given the size I couldn’t resist so I grabbed a pole and steered Dazzler in that direction. Within a few minutes I made one of my favorite announcements, “Fish on”. I pulled up a nice Kahuwai that would have made for a great dinner but it was cold and I just wasn’t feeling like filleting a fish so this one was returned to the sea where he can continue his watery existence until the next fisherman hooks him or a tuna or shark make him dinner.
Tank Demolition
The day after our arrival we started rounding up our supplies and contacted Heath Fairweather at B. M. Services. Heath came down to Dazzler at the visitor berth at the end of H pier. How many steps to the end? At close to a thousand, it’s a fur piece. After examining our tank and discussing our options we developed a plan. Heath suggested we use Pete Gilliam of Dockside Marine Mechanical for the tank removal cutting. Pete met with us and we agreed to start the following Tuesday as Monday was the New Zealand holiday for the Queen’s Birthday.
This left me with a few days to get things organized onboard. We had to cover everything with plastic to prevent dust from creeping into the lockers. We also had to put up protective cardboard on surface areas that might be damaged by sharp edges of cut up stainless steel tank pieces.
As you can see, it was a huge undertaking and disruption to Dazzler to get this project completed.
I took a very deep breath as I cut the stringers. The plan for re-installing them was in place but nothing could be done until after the new tanks were installed. Additionally, I had to make a surgical cut out of the floor under our saloon table for added access to the tank area for removal and installation of the tank. This was especially concerning as we’d been advised that finding teak and holly flooring would be next to impossible due to Covid and the resulting material delays from overseas.
All in all things were falling into place and the stage was set for demolition of the old tank. This project was so invasive to our living space we were not able to live onboard during the process. With saloon cushions covered in plastic and safely stowed in the forward bunk along with everything else from the saloon and walls and lockers covered, we were ready to get started on the demolition. With any luck we hoped to be able to have the old tank out by mid week.
Pete showed up on Tuesday morning and we started cutting out the old tank. By the end of the day we had at least 3/4 of the tank removed. Wednesday we finished the removal by noon. Looking at the tank pieces on the pallet, I discovered that there were two ruptured welds along the bottom corners of the tank. I guess it was time for removal and replacement after all. Ryan from Hercules Tanks showed up at 1230 hours and obtained the necessary measurements for the new tanks.
Next I had to clean and sand areas of the bilge in preparation of applying bilge paint. I would love to have just one tank that slips down into the bilge like a sexy evening glove. However, it wasn’t that easy. The plan was to have two tanks made that would fit side by side down into the bilge for ease of installation. We were not having an exact duplicate tank made. In fact we figured we would lose about a third of our current tank capacity. The existing tank volume is about 150 US gallons. Our new tank’s capacity will be somewhere around 100-130 US gallons plus or minus. Our water maker has been very reliable which will make the smaller size a comfortable modification. We will always have the option of jumping in the ocean to get clean if needed. HA HA
Painting Anyone?
Before we left Whangarei we obtained all of our paint supplies and other paint consumables from our friends at Wynn Fraser. One of the good things about being detained in New Zealand has been the friendships we have developed with the local businesses around Whangarei. Not just the chandleries, but all of the other marine related business as well. Seeing familiar faces and having developed friendships has resulted in an incredible network of knowledge base for being able to discuss solutions for boat projects and project dilemmas.
It is very much like days of old when I was a lot younger and growing up in a small California desert city. I loved going to Jennings Hardware. The staff was incredible. Their knowledge base was so broad and they happily shared it with you. Some of the big box hardware stores of today employ lots of people with limited knowledge for the department they are working in. Yes they know all about the products, but they may lack the actual usage or application experience. That’s not the case here.
Primer and Bilgekote now applied and I’m not too dizzy from all the fumes yet. Thank goodness for vapor masks. Looks good enough to eat off of. Now it’s time for a couple of weeks of R&R while we wait for the tank to be manufactured. Don’t worry, Jilly will tell you all about that over the next few articles. Until then I think I’m going to kick back with a beer or two.