Tag: Countdown

The Happy Ferry To Paihia

We awoke to another gorgeous summer day here in the Bay of Islands. Seems like everyday is just beautiful this time of year. The sun is out and the winds are down making the anchorage rather calm and quite enjoyable. The plan today is to take the ferry across from Russell to Paihia to do some provisioning.

After our morning coffee/computer ritual is complete we get dressed and head to shore. While there are two Four Square grocery stores here in Russell, we’ve heard there is a Countdown in Paihia that has more supplies so we decide to make the trip. It’s just about two miles across the bay and generally we’d consider taking the dinghy but the winds tend to pick up midday making this bay very choppy. Also, we’ve heard you have to beach your dinghy onshore with nothing to secure it to so we’ve decided the $13 NZD roundtrip ferry tickets are worth the cost. 

The Happy Ferry in Russell
The Happy Ferry In Russell

And don’t worry, this time we have chained and locked the fuel can and Sparkle to the dock. We aren’t taking any chances. 

We board the Happy Ferry around 1000. There are just a dozen or so people on it with us. We get a good chuckle when the Captain gets ready to shove off. He’s in reverse to get the line from the piling and the boat bangs hard against the dock. He goes forward and she hits again. The sound of aluminum beating against the dock rings through the air with a high pitched clanging like that of a cymbal being struck at the end of a dramatic symphony. I look around but no one seems even the slightest bit worried. Hmmm…maybe this is not their first ride on the “bumper ferry”.

Overhead view of the area from Russell to Paihia
Jilly on the wharf at Paihia

After a couple more bumps he throws her into forward gear and off we go. The ride takes about fifteen minutes. We pull into the wharf in Paihia and there’s a little more banging and clanging and still no one seems to get their feathers ruffled about it. Everyone just rises in an orderly fashion and walks off. Of course that is the Kiwi way…no one gets too upset about anything here.

The wharf is an interesting place with lots of tour operators and tourist information. You can book everything from fishing and diving adventures to parasailing here. There are a couple of restaurants right at the wharf and some touristy shops too. There’s also quite a bit of information about Paihia and her history. We stop for a bit to take in some of the historical facts about the area.

New Zealand Builds Her First Sailing Ship

A postage stamp featuring the Herald was made in 1975.

Paihia is where the first New Zealand built sailing ship was launched in January 1826. Her name was Herald” and she was a 55 ton schooner. She was built under the authority of Samual Marsden and Henry Williams, both missionaries who were in New Zealand to spread the word of God and convert Māoris to Christianity. She was used to reach the more remote people of the land as well as for trading so as to provision the Paihia settlement.

The Herald made just eleven voyages in two years and she eventually sank as she tried to cross the Hokianga bar on 6 May 1828. The accounts state she had been waiting outside of the harbor for two days for a favorable opportunity to cross. Just before sunset on the 6th she was making her way for the bar with a fair wind but as she was just atop of the bar the wind suddenly died. She was left to the unforgiving powers of the breakers and eventually carried upon the rocks. The master and his crew clung to the rigging until morning at which time the tide had receded allowing them to walk to shore. Amazingly there was no loss of life.

The Village of Paihia

After learning a bit of Paihia history at the wharf we take to the village to locate the pharmacy, the Countdown grocery store and the bank. This adorable seaside community is filled with people on summer holiday. Some are sitting at the outdoor areas of the restaurants taking in the fabulous weather, others are strolling along the quiet streets and still others are filling the tourist shops where you can buy everything Kiwi…even the stuff that looks like it is handmade here but is in reality just junk from China. As for us, we will stick to buying souvenirs we from the local craftsman.

After locating our provisions and completing our errands we decide it’s time for a little lunch. We stop at CBK Craft Beer & Kitchen which is located right at the wharf. The views are amazing and the entire place is opened up to enjoy the beautiful day. 

Dan orders us some beers and when Kawiti, our server, delivers them he drops off a couple of menus. As we look around we note that this place looks eerily similar to one of our favorite haunts in Whangerie, Jimmy Jacks. And, the menu has some of the same stone grilled items as well. Kawiti tells us this is owned by the brother of the guy who owns Jimmy Jacks. Ahhh…now that makes sense. 

We enjoy our lunch, our chats with Kawiti and the wonderful views but the time has come for us to hop the ferry back to the other side. This time we’re on a different ferry and the Captain seems to be a bit better at negotiating the docks. Of course it isn’t as funny of a trip but the point is we make is safely back to Russell.

Our neighbor, SV Al Vei, in the Russell anchorage.

We’re glad we took the ferry too because by the time we leave the wind is howling and the bay is pretty choppy. It would have been a very, very wet ride back across. Can you say, “Swamp ass?”

Back in Russell we decide that rather than stopping at the liquor store we will just go back to Dazzler and do that in the morning when it’s a bit more calm. Seems like the best decision given that even the protected anchorage has some chop to it now. 

Bay view of Paihia at night
It was a crystal clear night and the view of the lights of Paihia under the stars was simply sublime.

We spend the evening in the cockpit watching the ferries and other boats come and go. I play my tin whistle for a bit and Dan gets out his ukulele for a while as well. For dinner he grills some steaks and we just do what cruisers do….enjoy life.

Until Next Time….

Jilly & Dan

What Happens Now?

There is no doubt the world is in crisis and our realities are changing by the second. Sometimes it’s overwhelming and difficult to even think of what is happening and what could happen down the road. Of course everyone is dealing with this whole Covid-19 thing in his or her own way. Here on Dazzler we’ve taken a pretty positive approach to the whole thing. I mean really, what else can you do in times like these?

You’re probably wondering how this type of crisis affects people like us who are nomads roaming the world and drifting from island to island at the whim of the wind and sea. Fortunately for us we are here in New Zealand right now and not on some remote island where food shortages are possible and medical care is mediocre at best. And, even more fortunate for us is that we got Dazzler back in the water and into a marina before the proverbial shit hit the fan.

So, here’s a little info on what life is like here on Dazzler in the middle of a worldwide pandemic.

Let’s see, the first thing I’d say is that if we have to be somewhere during all this we’re very glad to be here in New Zealand. Based on what we see in the news and I mean news from a myriad of sources around the world, it looks and feels like the Kiwis really have a great handle on this. At a very early stage they enacted policies to prevent the hoarding and chaos we’ve see in the stores in the US and other countries. Even before the mandatory 28 day lockdown they were limiting the amount of food and paper products you could buy. They had a two maximum limit, which obviously prevented people from buying out entire stocks of things.

In the few days prior to the lockdown we did find quite a few bare shelves in the grocery store. Mostly it was meats, paper products and baking products like flower and sugar. But we went back to the same Countdown Market that we had been to the prior day and the shelves were fully stocked again so I think it was just the initial call that a lockdown was about to be in place that sent people out to buy up food. And even at that we never saw carts teeming over with groceries. It was people buying a week or two worth of food at most.

Honestly, I’m not even sure the average Kiwi would be the kind of person to go out hoarding food and toilet paper anyway. What we’ve found here is a country full of people who are more concerned about each other and doing for the whole of the community than they are for themselves. We’ve watched as people in long lines in the grocery stores stop to allow an elderly person in front of them so that person is exposed less to the crowds. People are orderly and everyone is friendly and smiling. Better yet, we’ve not heard a cross word from anyone as they stand in line and wait their turn to be helped. It’s really quite refreshing.

The Kiwis have even started a nationwide Bear Hunt for children. All over the country people are putting stuffed teddy bears in their windows for children to see when they go on walks with their parents. It’s helping to lighten the mood for the kids and gives them something to look forward to each day. We’ve even seen a few on our travels. 

As of last Wednesday evening we’ve been put on a minimum of a 28 day lockdown. What does that mean? Well, it means for the most part only grocery stores, gas stations, the post office and a few government offices are open. There’s no take out food here and you can’t just go hang out at the beach with your friends. Even us cruisers have been advised that we are not allowed to move about on our boats unless it’s absolutely necessary. We’re in a marina and here is where we will stay until the lockdown is over. 

We can take walks around town (it’s a ghost town now) to get exercise but the police are watching to be sure we are not “grouping up” and they can stop you at any time to ask for identification and determine what you are doing out and about. A fellow cruiser told us on the net yesterday morning that they were stopped and questioned by the police while on their walk a day earlier. One top NZ official made it clear that if you aren’t comfortable on your couch at home they have a nice hard bench in a cell for you. I’d say they are pretty serious about this lockdown stuff.

We took our first walk to get some exercise and it was rather surreal. It felt like we were in an end of the world movie as we walked down virtually empty streets going blocks on end without seeing a soul. The sound of the silence was peaceful yet a bit disturbing as our minds tried to grapple with the fact that what they were seeing and hearing was not how it should be. We saw police driving by and even in their cars they wore masks and gloves. The thought came that the masks and gloves could be a bit of a show to make people take this seriously but then maybe not. Either way it’s clear they aren’t messing around here.

We did our first post lockdown run to the grocery store yesterday, which was quite interesting. They are only allowing a certain number of people in the store at a time. People are lined up outside waiting their turn to get inside. When it’s your turn they have already sanitized the shopping cart handles as there is someone standing there doing it to each one before you grab it. We’ve noticed that the Kiwis are quite keen on following the rules. As we all know the rule is to be socially distanced by at least 2 meters. At gas stations and in the grocery store line we noticed that without having to be prompted they automatically are spacing themselves out. Of course it makes the line appear much longer than it really is but that’s okay. We’ve been asked by the government, that whenever possible, only one member of a family go into the store as to limit the number of people. Guess what? We didn’t see even one incident where people or families were trying to break this rule. It was incredible. I swear these people inspire me to be a better, kinder person each day. 

Dan went into the store while I sat in the car watching the show. He said all the shelves were fully stocked and only a few produce items were a bit light. He said the people were all moving about quickly and quietly and everyone kept their distance. At the cashier stand there were tapelines on the floor denoting where you should stand in line and you had to bag your own groceries. All in all it was a very good experience. 

For now we’ve been given permission to use the shower, head and laundry facilities here at the marina as long as only one person or “isolating family” is in the building at a time. That could change as we now have our first death in the country and there are two confirmed Covid-19 cases here in Whangerie. Each day we wake to check the news and FB pages that provide us with information as to what the next restriction will be. But, you know what? We are all, and I mean all (visitors and Kiwis alike), okay with this. We are working through it and doing what has been asked of us because it has to be done. It’s the right thing for ALL of us.

As for keeping busy on the boat, well, if you know boats you know that is never a problem. We’ve got more than enough boat projects, cleaning and blog stuff to keep us busy. Dan’s been working on sewing projects this week. He made new covers for our gas cans that sit on deck and now he’s deep into sewing new chaps for Sparkle…our dinghy. Me? Well, I’ve worked on my taxes, done some reading and writing, worked on some Fiji Book Fundraising stuff as well.

To keep connected with other cruisers there’s the morning radio net where we all share information as to what we’ve heard or know about things that are going on in the area. And, our neighbor on SV Evenstar set up at 5 pm Virtual Happy Hour where were all log into a video meeting and chat from our boats. Everyone has their cocktails and snacks and we just chat about our families, the world, boat projects and the like. You know, the normal sundowner topics. 

What’s going to happen this year as far as cruising goes? Well, we really don’t know. Honestly, it’s anyone’s guess at this point. With the borders closed in the islands and places we’d hoped to visit we are in a holding pattern. Fortunately New Zealand extended all visitor visas until 25 September 2020. That makes it a bit easier but the thing is we really can’t take off that late in the year as we’d be heading into cyclone season on November first. So, we are just taking it a day at a time. If the borders start opening up earlier than expected we will just do a short season and head on to Australia as planned. If not, we will apply for a longer extension and wait things out here in New Zealand until next year. Of course it gets pretty darn chilly here and we don’t have the clothes for that so we’re hoping the lockdown ends before it gets too cold. We’re going to need to pick up some clothes. We did pick up a small ceramic heater for the cabin a couple of weeks ago so at least we can stay cozy and warm on board. Who knows? Maybe I’ll even take out one of my new bikinis and wear it INSIDE Dazzler. 

For now, just like everyone else, we are praying this ends soon so we can get back to our normal lives. Until then we will keep busy and continue to follow the rules because, well, we’re rule followers and that’s what we do!

Until next time…

Jilly

P.S. When you see our frontline workers like doctors, nurses, police, firefighters, EMTs, military, grocery workers, postal workers and other “essential personnel”… PLEASE take a moment to thank them for what they are doing. A little “thanks” can make a big difference in their stressful days away from their families.