Tag: Coromandel Peninsula

Perilous Ride To Port Jackson

We awoke this morning to another rainy day but we will not allow this to dampen our spirits. Nope, we have places to explore and today we’re off to see Port Jackson at the northern tip of the Coromandel Peninsula.

The Coromandel Peninsula is a rugged landscape with mountains, beaches and few paved roads so to reach our destination we drive from our BnB on the eastern side of the peninsula across to Coromandel Town on the western coast. From here there is one road that leads north to Port Jackson. Having never been here and honestly having not done much research other than to look at a map on Google, we had no idea what we were in for on this trip.

Highway 25 takes us to the western coast and from there we take Port Jackson road north. The road begins as we expected….paved and solid and wide enough for passing traffic. The rains are falling a bit harder by this time and as we make our way further and further north the road becomes narrower and narrower not to mention it goes from paved to dirt, or should I say mud?

A Time For Bravery

Now, I’m a pretty brave gal and I love a good adventure but when traveling in the pouring down rain on a narrow, muddy and slippery road that is skirting the edge of cliffs where the ocean is 75-100 meters below, I tend to get a bit on edge so to speak. Yes, I trust my professional driver and I know he knows what he’s doing but I would be lying to you if I said my heart wasn’t in my throat a few dozen times as I felt the car sliding on the slick mud trail beneath us. My audible gasps have been a source of frustration for poor Dan. I think he thinks they mean I don’t trust him. I do! I honestly do, but accidents happen even to the best of drivers right?

When I’m not holding my breath, putting the death grip on the seat or pumping the imaginary brakes I do take the time to enjoy some of the spectacular scenery outside my window. Even in the rain it is truly breathtaking. The ocean is relatively calm with low clouds lingering above the emerald green waters. Small waves roll softly onto the shores below leaving a thin line of white foam behind.

The clouds are so low that once we begin climbing the mountain we find ourselves enveloped in them. I finally start to enjoy it as we are moving more inland and no longer clinging to the side of the cliff. I actually start to breathe a bit more normally but alas it will not last as the foray to the inner part of the peninsula lasts but a short time. Before I know it we are skirting the ocean again. The only bonus is that we are now at the shoreline and no longer hanging from the cliffs.

Port Jackson & Some Wildlife Too!

The further north we go the more remote it becomes. We see quail and even a few pheasant along the way. Of course we also come across cattle and more than a few sheep. I do love all the wildlife and the way we can get so close to it here. Dan begins to become a bit frustrated with my constant requests to stop but as always he grants my wishes. I swear he is so good to me.

Port Jackson
Port Jackson Beach

Arrival at Port Jackson was a relief and yet somewhat of a let down. Now, I’m sure if we’d have arrived on a beautiful, sunny day when we could have done a little hiking it would have been a different feeling. But, here we are standing on a beach in the rain.

Call me cynical but I’ve been on more than one beach in the rain in my life and they all sort of look the same….gloomy, wet and cold. Of course we aren’t the type of people to look at the negative side of things so as always we say…..”It’s not the destination….it’s the journey and the journey was an adventure.”

With the rain getting worse we hop into the car for the perilous ride back down Port Jackson Road to Coromandel Town. On the way we see several slips where rock and mud have fallen down the mountain onto the road. These weren’t here on the way north so we’re both ready to get this little trip behind us. With no cell reception and few houses we certainly do not want to find ourselves stuck out here because the road is blocked.

Coromandel Town

The ride back to Coromandel Town seems to take a lot less time than the ride up. Why is it that it always feels that way? Anyway, after our trip we decide it’s time to stop for a bite to eat. We find a cute little place to stop called the Umu Cafe & Restaurant. Much to our surprise they cook up a great “American style” pizza. This is something pretty difficult to find in the land of the Kiwis where they put things like BBQ sauce and squid on pizza. They also serve up some ice cold beer which, after this trip, is very welcome.

Coromandel Town
A dramatic shot of the main street in Coromandel Town. The rains are coming and it’s going to get ugly!

We arrive back at our BnB and are met with Evan who says he and Muriel would like to have us join them for cocktails this evening. What a lovely invitation.

A few hours later we are sitting in their beautiful living room enjoying some wine, nibbles and fabulous conversation. He’s a Kiwi, she a Scot and we absolutely adore them! Muriel is quite the artist who makes exquisite mosaic mirrors. She gives me a tour of her studio and a peak into her supply closet that is filled with broken china, tiles, shells….you name it. I only wish we were staying longer so I could have an opportunity for her to show me how to make one of these incredible pieces.

Evan is an artist in his own right with a workshop that houses all the cool tools you’d need to do woodworking or metal work. He actually designed and built the railing on the wooden deck outside of our room. Both are truly wonderful people and we completely enjoy our evening with them. The evening ends with hugs and kisses and we feel amazing knowing we’ve made two new incredible friends. If we ever make it back to the Coromandel we will definitely be looking them up.

Tomorrow we head back across the peninsula to Driving Creek Railway and Waiua Falls for some hiking. I actually think Dan is relaxing a bit too which is a blessing. Stay tuned for more fun stuff to come.

Until next time,

Jilly

Missed Day #1 of our journey? Click here to get caught up.

Port Jackson Map

The Ever Stunning Coromandel Peninsula

The dismantling of the freshwater tank is finished. Dazzler is in complete and total disarray and there’s nothing to do now but wait for the new tank to be manufactured. So, what do two adventurers with the longing to wander in their souls do? Well, we take off to explore the area by land. And so it is time to head off to the Coromandel Peninsula.

We’ve done a fair bit of traveling around this stunning country but the Coromandel is one area we’ve completely missed up until now. The drive up from Tauranga to our Air BnB would have been a little under four hours had we driven without stopping but then what kind of adventurers forgo stopping when there are so many great things to see along the way?

First Things First

Hercules Tanks Tour
Ryan at Hercules Tanks explains how the tanks are welded together.

Just because we’re heading out for a couple of weeks of R & R doesn’t mean Dan has completely forgotten about the work being done on Dazzler so our first stop after leaving Tauranga is in Katikati at Hercules Tanks. He is dying to see the facility where our new tanks are being manufactured.

We spoke with Jill and Frank, the owners, and also with Ryan who is one of their engineers. Ryan was kind enough to give us a tour of the facility and teach us exactly how these polypropylene tanks are created. Coming from a manufacturing family I’m always interested in seeing how things are made and, of course being somewhat of an engineer himself, Dan enjoys learning about manufacturing as well.

We were delighted with our tour and I think it gave Dan a sense of comfort that all will go well while we are off enjoying ourselves. Hopefully he will actually relax a little on this trip as there’s still a lot of work ahead of him upon our return.

Owharoa Falls

Tank facility tour complete we headed out to Owharoa Falls. I’m completely addicted to taking photographs of waterfalls and New Zealand has no shortage of them. These particular falls are touted as some of the nicest in the area so I told Dan we just had to stop. And, one nice thing is they are just a short three minute walk down a trail from the roadway. Even though it was a bit overcast and gloomy, they did not disappoint! I snapped a few dozen or so photos taken at just about every angle I could get and we were off again.

Owharoa Falls

From here we headed back north on State Highway 25 toward Whitianga. (Pronounced Fit ē on ga or Wit ē on ga depending upon which Kiwi or Māori person you ask). Seems there is a great deal of debate about how to pronounce the “wh” in names and words here which is ironic since there are so many that begin with these two letters. For us we pronounce it the way the person we are speaking to does at the moment. Just seems easier that way.

The Drive North

The drive to Whitianga, however you choose to pronounce it, is a gorgeous drive. There are beautiful farms, mountains, ocean views and so much more. It is the beginning of winter here which means it’s also the rainy season. The hills and fields are literally glowing with green fauna that is so bright it is almost neon in color. The gloomy backdrop of grey skies and fog show them off in striking detail. I just can’t snap enough photos of this fabulous scenery. And even though the day is rainy we’re enjoying every moment.

Driving The Coromandel Peninsula

Of course my love makes a few stops along the way for me to take my photographs and I also add some new images to my New Zealand at 100 km/hour collection that will appear in our upcoming book. We’re working on a coffee table book and this will be one of the chapters. It’s amazing how many great images you can get from a really good camera even while driving at high speeds. And, honestly, if we stopped each time I saw something I wanted to photograph we’d never have made it out of Whangarei. 

We arrive in Whitianga and by this time we are famished so we locate a quaint little Irish pub called Grace O’Malley’s Irish Inn. We enjoy the view of the park and water while sipping on a couple of pints of Guinness and eating a tasty lunch. Then it’s off to the grocery store to pick up a few items to stock up our Air BnB. We like BnBs because we get tired of eating out so we always choose ones with kitchens that allow us the option of cooking meals in from time to time. 

The Bush Studio Apartment….WOW!

The Bush Studio apartment we have chosen to make our home for the next few days is located just fifteen minutes outside of Whitianga in a little town called Kuaotunu.

Muriel and Evan’s place is simply delightful. This fabulous Air BnB is located in a valley deep within the forest. It’s remote while still being close to town and an easy drive to just about anything you want to do in the area. The home itself is a large octagon where the hosts live on the top floor and the BnB is located on the bottom floor. When you live on a boat sometimes it’s nice to stay in a different type of place for a while and this is perfect. 

The unit itself has 180° of windows looking over the lush green forest with doors that open onto the beautiful wooden deck. From the deck you can see the the tops of the fern like Ponga trees which are some of my favorite trees in all of New Zealand. Below the deck you can hear the gurgling of the stream and at night you can even hear the screeching of the ever elusive Kiwi birds as they scurry about the forest floor. (Click to hear what they sound like.)

Sunrise
A beautiful sunrise as seen from our Air BnB

With no light pollution in the area, on a clear night, you can see the stars and the Milky Way just as clearly as we do on ocean passages. With a perfectly clear night this evening I am able to pick up a few interesting sky shots which is always a joy for me. Dan, on the other hand, has decided to turn in early. Poor dear is exhausted from the past couple of weeks. He’s definitely earned an early to bed night and maybe even a few naps along our journey.

Night View From Air BnB
The view from the deck on a clear night.

Yes, it looks like we chose the right BnB this time and we’re looking forward to staying here for the next few days as we explore the Coromandel. Tomorrow we are off to Port Jackson at the northern tip of the peninsula. Should be a fun trip with lots more to see in this dazzling part of New Zealand.

Until next time,

Jilly

Map of Leg #1

Read More About The Freshwater Tank Refit…Click Here