Category: Whangarei

Anchors Aweigh Or Not!

You know how you go through life thinking all your ducks are in a row.  Everything is working on all cylinders and your harmonic convergence has all of its feng shui maxed out.  That’s when you’ve told God your plans and you can hear the laughter coming as the last words of your plans slip past your lips.  Well, this has happened aboard Dazzler.  Having been tied alongside a concrete float in the marina was starting to feel like a permanent fixture with some roots starting to replace the dock lines.  Time to break the bondage, get off the dock and do what a boat was meant to do.  Move through the water and explore.  

Sunset at Urquharts Bay, New Zealand

So, that’s just what we did.  Call it a trial run of sorts.  We had a new mainsail resting atop the boom begging to be filled with the wind and harness its power of propulsion.  Oh to feel the movement of the water beneath the keel and the gentle rocking during the evenings while at anchor watching the last rays of light filter upward through the clouds along the horizon.  How could life be any better?  Do you hear the laughter from God yet?  Neither did we.  

Two days on the hook at Urquharts Bay and we decide to weigh anchor and head out of the mouth of the river, hoist the mainsail and let her fly.  Can you hear the laughter yet?  Wait for it….  With everything secure below and on deck we geared up.  Headsets, check.  Engine on, check.  Sail cover removed, check.  Here we go!  There I was on the bow using the 12 volt Lighthouse anchor windlass to retrieve the chain and anchor from its holding power on the sea floor.  A few minutes into the process a small puff of smoke rose from below deck followed by the all stop of the 12 volt mechanical beast.  “Well that can’t be a good thing.”  There’s still more than 100 feet of 5/16” chain and the 66 pound Lewmar anchor yet to be hoisted.  Where the hell is Grape Ape when you need him?  I now have the task of hoisting the remaining chain and anchor by a hand over hand technique that should be duplicated in gyms across the world to provide a real world experience to your daily workout.  

With the chain and anchor now secured onboard we set out to fly the sails to evaluate the new mainsail.  Its performance was nothing short of outstanding.  Its fit and its functionality was amazing.  Thank you Dave at Calibre Sails in Whangarei.  There is nothing like that first outing with your new wind engine.  We wished we could have kept going.  Alas the tide in the Whangarei River, the dock and the windlass issue was calling us back.  By late afternoon we were tied safely to the dock and I hit the ground running after a brief internet search for some local supplies needed to affect our windlass repairs.  Fortunately, back in 2009, before setting out away from Southern California I obtained a complete set of windlass seals and bearings to do an overhaul service of our windlass and only a few other parts would be needed.  Some odds and ends electrical components were needed.  Two days before Christmas isn’t the best time of year to search for components needed, but by noon on Christmas Eve I had everything I needed.  

Saturday after Christmas the job began.  What was I getting myself into?  I first had to remove a couple hundred feet of chain and anchor rode from the anchor locker.  Next was the removal of the 12 volt electric motor mounted below deck.  Once removed the top of the motor had visible grease/oil residue which meant that the lower seal of the windlass gearbox above had been leaking.  This meant that I would also have to disassemble the electric motor to clean all the oil from inside and hope that it would surge with life once the 12 volt power supply was added to the equation.  While in the anchor locker I found that the two main 12 volt terminal posts and lugs had some surface corrosion.  This was the first of several issues found that needed to be corrected.  I had a new deck switch to replace the existing switch that I had to repair and make work in Fiji about a year and a half ago.  While inspecting this switch and its connections, I discovered that the switch had given up the ghost and in fact needed replacing.  By the way, this switch is a high load style switch that I had direct wired to the windlass motor over 7 years ago eliminating the solenoid.  I know, I know.  What an idiot.  

I decided to install a new solenoid back into the system to remove the heavy 12 volt load through the foot switch and add a layer of added safety to the system.  Now it is time to get to the real work.  Pulling the windlass, tearing it apart and learning what I don’t know about the greasy innards.  

Captain Dan working on the windlass in the cockpit

Where do I begin.  I do have all the instructions from the Lighthouse Windlass manufacturer to follow.  I read through them a dozen times or so in attempt to somehow be blessed with some form of enlightenment.  At this point I would have given anything to have had a work bench available to me.  The windlass is machined out of a large block of stainless steel which is why it’s is SO heavy to muscle around while bending over on the dock.  Carefully following the directions, I dissected the beast trying to memorize where each part lived as it was removed from the 3 pounds of grease that was inserted the last time it was serviced.  Literally three pounds of grease had to be removed and cleaned from the gears and case.  I think I went through a kilo of rags, two rolls of paper towels and a half a box of nitrile gloves during this process.  Sure I could have done this on the hook in some exotic local but I’m glad I was on the dock and had access to the trash cans and supplies nearby.  

I’d like to interject here.  I like to think of myself as on top of a good maintenance schedule aboard Dazzler, but I have to admit that this job was something that kept being pushed down the To Do list as others might be guilty of as well.  As I came upon projects like this I swore to myself that I wouldn’t let this happen again.  I’ll be more diligent in the future by replacing seals here and there, cleaning electrical connections and the like to help prevent issues in the future.  My intentions are well meant but reality gets in the way thus pushing certain items down that all powerful To Do list.  Let’s face it I’m not a slave to the boat and there has to be some time for enjoyment, fishing, visiting with locals and sundowners.  Right?

Back to the grease bucket.  LOL  After the windlass was all taken apart and cleaned, I set it aside to get into the anchor locker to do some maintenance and electrical work.  I first cut off the old 2/0 cable lugs from the positive and negative cables and re-installed new cable lugs.  The terminal posts were removed and cleaned as well.  I replaced the foot switch and installed wiring to actuate the windlass solenoid.  Over the last voyage from Fiji, we noticed there had been a leak emanating from the top of the anchor locker bulkhead that separated the Vee berth, so I added a thick bead of caulking along the upper edge of the bulkhead in the anchor locker to prevent any further leaks.  I also replaced and re-bedded four large bolts that were the apparent source of the water intrusion into the anchor locker.

Next I decided to disassemble the 12 volt motor.  My philosophy regarding things that don’t work is simple.  If it doesn’t work before you tear it apart and then doesn’t work once you put it back together you haven’t lost anything but your time.  But!  If it does work again and provides many more years (or days, weeks or months) of service you have gained a level of confidence.  The disassembly went well.  After about a half a can of contact cleaner, brushing here and there and a pound of rags it looked clean enough to reassemble.  Before I added silicone to the the end caps, I decided to give the motor a test.  I hooked it up to a 12 volt power supply and bingo.  The motor surged both forward and reverse with gusto.  Wow!  Onto the next part of the project.

Dan injecting grease into windlass

Back to the windlass.  I had three 465 gram tubes of grease to insert into the gear case as I started the task of putting it all back together.  I only ran into a few glitches during the reassembly that required a trip to Donovan’s Engineering supply for some replacement bolts.  I also had to order some replacement seals for future repairs.  Hopefully they won’t be needed for many months from the completion of this service.  The reassembly went smooth.  Perhaps too smooth.  It was now time to finish this project and reinstall the windlass onto the foredeck.  Very straight forward install.  I bolted it down onto its deck plate and then went below deck to crawl into the anchor locker to install the 12 volt motor.  Check!  I finished all the electrical connections in the anchor locker.  The 250 amp fuse had blown during the windlass failure so it also needed to be replaced.  

Drum roll please…Time to push the foot switch and feel the power as it roars back to life.  Waiting, Waiting, Waiting.  A few small adjustments below deck to correct my oversight during the electrical connections.  Drum roll take two…Pushing the foot switch and the windlass lurched into operation.  Tada!  Wait a minute.  It is running backwards.  Okay.  Back to the anchor locker to change the connections of the solenoid.  Back to the windlass.  It’s now turning in the right direction, but something isn’t right.  Another setback by the mechanic, me that is.  I somehow flipped the shaft and main gear 180° during reassembly.  Apparently the one way rotation of the shaft slipped by my eagerness to reassemble the gearbox.  Damn!  This meant, removal of the motor and windlass, reopening the gearbox full of fresh grease, flipping the shaft 180°, reassemble, reinstall and reattaching the motor.  Let me tell you this…  With the precision of a racing pit crew, I had the windlass back in the cockpit being disassembled in less than an hour.  Within the next two hours it was reinstalled on the foredeck with the motor below deck reattached and now working properly.  

The only difficulty this shade tree mechanic experienced during the whole process was that the anchor locker seems to have shrunk some over the years.  The last time I was in there I remember there being more room between the motor and my belly.  I didn’t know fiberglass shrinks over time.  Good bit of information to know.  LOL

Until the next time from the shrunken anchor locker, may your wake be bountiful with fish, your soul free and your anchor windlass always rise to the occasion.  Cheers!

Captain Dan 

Things That Bite In The Night

As you know by now we absolutely love New Zealand! This place is truly spectacular and if we have to be “stuck” in any one country for a time, this is is top on our list. That said, as warmer weather approaches we are faced with the evil side of the land of the Kiwis….the ever present, always biting sandfly and the extremely wicked While Tailed Spider. Both critters I could have gone an entire lifetime without meeting.

New Zealand Sandfly

Let’s start with the lesser of the two evils….the Sandfly or as the Māori people call them, Namus. These nasty flying beasts are like none we’ve ever experienced. I grew up in Florida, the land of the biting insects, with our no-see-ums and mammoth sized mosquitoes that can carry a small child away. We lived in Mexico and faced off against the ever fearsome jejenes and we’ve even endured a vast array of villainous insects throughout the South Pacific islands. None, and I mean none, of these compare to the sadistic biting fly of New Zealand! They are the worst ever!

To give you some idea of how atrocious these heinous creatures are allow me to regale you with a little history.  It is said that when Captain Cook and his men arrived in New Zealand they actually coated their bodies in rancid bacon fat to keep these little scallywags at bay.  You can imagine how bad they have to be for someone to be willing to go to that extreme.

Their bite is not just a bite like a mozzie (mosquito) bite either. Here’s what Trevor Crosby, a New Zealand Entomologist has to say about them.

Sandfly bite on Jilly
A sandfly bite on Jilly’s leg.

“Using tiny claws and a proboscis-like mouth, sandflies stretch the skin to make it taut and use mandibles to tear and saw through the tightened skin. An anti-coagulant in their saliva helps the blood pool and histamine causes itching.

What they inject into you causes a bit of numbness but it’s not as evolved as some overseas species that can bite and you don’t feel it. They have hooks that push the skin and use the mandibles to cut through.

“The New Zealand species is different. Once they’ve cut it they have these little spear-like saw hooks to deepen the wound and make a little pool of blood. They need the blood to mature their eggs.”

Captain Cook described them like this… 

“The most mischievous animal here (New Zealand) is the small black sandfly which are exceedingly numerous…wherever they light they cause a swelling and such intolerable itching that it is not possible to refrain from scratching and at last ends in ulcers like the small Pox,” 

Sounds like a fun time eh? But wait, there’s more! The bite isn’t the only joyful part of the experience. It’s how some of us react to it. For people like Dan it’s nothing more than a mild irritation. For me, I have a much more severe reaction wherein the bite swells and itches uncontrollably for days. I end up having to take antihistamines to deal with it and they leave small round scars behind. And the thing is when you live on a boat you can’t just close everything up and go inside. This lifestyle requires living with the outside inside so short of wearing a onesie, gloves and a hood I’m going to be exposed to them. Of course if you ask the Kiwis they will tell you that after you’ve been bitten enough you will actually become somewhat immune to them. As for me…..I’m still waiting for that day.

You can use bug repellent to prevent getting bit and here in New Zealand you can get repellent that is 80% DEET! I guess the Kiwis believe that poisoning yourself is better than dealing with the bites. At this point I tend to agree so we bought some Repel Xtreme. Unfortunately I can’t wear it inside because I don’t want it all over our new cushions in the saloon.

So far the best treatment I’ve found is to put white vinegar on the bite as soon as I notice it and take antihistamines. As soon as you notice it, you ask? Well yes. I don’t actually feel it when they bite. Maybe it’s that numbing juice they shoot in there as they are gnawing at my skin like a tiger on raw meat. No, it’s not until the histamines start pulsing through my bloodstream that I know I’ve been viciously attacked by a blood sucking demon from the darkest depths of hell. By that time it’s too late to find the tiny monster to inflict a slow and unusually cruel death upon it. Oh but in my dreams…yes in my dreams!!!

Enter the White Tailed Spiders…

As if the sandflies aren’t enough, I have, for some reason, become the target of the White Tailed Spider. Ask any good Kiwi and they will tell you that the White Tailed Spider is not native to New Zealand. It is, in fact, a transplant from Australia. Furthermore they will tell you with a bit of a cheeky grin that “All Kiwi enemies come from Australia.” I’m staying out of that debate!

White Tailed Spider

So what’s the deal with the sadistic White Tailed Spiders? Well, first of all they apparently like me a whole lot more than I do them. In fact they now occupy the number one spot on my list of critters that need to be eradicated from this earth! Secondly, they seem to have no interest in Dan or Grape Ape whatsoever. Third, if I thought the bite from a sandfly was bad I had a lot to learn as Summer started to bloom here in New Zealand because it takes just a single bite from a White Tail and you will begin to think sandflies are your friend.

One day about six or eight weeks ago I started sneezing and I almost couldn’t stop. I kept blaming it on the blooming Pohutukawa, my favorite New Zealand tree, as they were in full bloom with their red flowers so nicely complimented by the dark green of the leaves. These gorgeous trees line the marina basin. While they are simply stunning, they are also messy with the spiny stamens blowing everywhere and so I was pretty certain it was just allergies.

Pohutukawa Tree

The following morning while sitting in the saloon having our internet and coffee time I looked down at my right thigh and saw a very large, swollen spot. It was distinctly different from the ones I get with the sandfly bites so it peeked my curiosity. I touched it. It was hot as a firecracker and the pain from merely brushing my finger over it was seriously intense. I immediately got up and put some vinegar on it as I assumed it was just a really bad sandfly bite.

White Tailed Spider Bite

Within a few hours I noticed I had several more of these spots. A couple on my left leg and three on my left arm. One behind my left elbow that was rather large too. At this point we decided I should draw dots around them, document the time and wait to see if they continued to grow. We also took some photos in case we’d need to see a doctor about it. 

Two days later the one on the back of my elbow had grown to the size of a half dollar and they all were beginning to ulcerate and become even more painful. It was really very scary. On top of all it I was still sneezing like crazy and the over the counter antihistamines we have on board weren’t doing a thing to help.

Time to bring in the professionals…

It was at this point Dan decided it was time to visit White Cross. Obviously I was having an issue that was more than just an allergic reaction to some sandflies. One of the great things about White Cross, other than the fact that I’ve become somewhat of a frequent flyer there so I get amazing treatment, is that they have an online gauge to show you how busy they are so you don’t have to go and wait for hours. 

We timed our visit and when the gauge showed they weren’t busy, off we went. The doctor didn’t seem too worried. He said they were likely spider bites, gave me some mild antibiotics and sent me on my way. Okay, that’s fabulous. Hopefully this little debacle will be past us pretty quickly. Or…..maybe not! Several days go by and these things are getting even bigger and the skin is literally peeling off of them in layers. A gentle brush against even the softest thing felt like needles being jammed into my legs and arms. So, back to White Cross we go. 

This time we got this amazing doctor who really took the time to thoroughly look at each area. He was pretty certain these are White Tailed spider bites but none of us can figure out how it ended up on the boat unless we brought it back from hiking. After I explained that ten years or so ago I had a Staph infection that landed me in the hospital for five days he decided to amp up the antibiotics, give me a strong cream and put me on some high powered antihistamines as well. Within two days I was getting relief. Of course now I am left with eight reddish, purple scars from the bites but at least they are healing. No beauty pageant wins in my future now. LOL

Miss Muffet's Spray

During this time Dan borrowed some Miss Muffet’s Spider Spray from our friends on SV Evenstar and he sprayed the entire boat from stem to stern. He never actually saw a White Tail but he did find a few other eight legged insects that were, as any spider should be, dead!

Some will ask how I didn’t know I was being bitten because it’s known that their bite is quite ferocious. Well, we believe it must have happened while I was sleeping. It would make sense as these buggers like dark, cool places in the summertime and our bunk area is pretty dark when the dinghy is on the foredeck. Also I sleep pretty soundly. Apparently many people get bit in their sleep and don’t realize it until the morning. 

That said, a few weeks went by and we thought we had put the chapter of the Biting Beasts Of New Zealand behind us. I was sitting at the table working on the laptop in the wee hours of the morning when all of the sudden I felt a sting on my leg that literally made me jump up from the table. The only lights on were from the TV and the laptop so I didn’t get to see the villain but I’ve not doubt who it was because by the morning the area was already beginning to ulcerate and was doubling in size.

Off to White Cross AGAIN! I really should get some sort of air miles or bonus dollars or something for the amount of time I spend in there. Anyway, back on antibiotics and antihistamines for another five days while Dan does another dousing of Miss Muffet’s Spider Spray.

Two weeks have gone by now and we’re out on the hook and BAM….three more bites! To say I’m about over this is a major understatement. Dan is determined to find these little sods and I’m just dealing with the bites as best I can. We’ll keep you posted on the saga of the Biting Beasts. In the meantime, if you’re here in New Zealand or your coming this way….all I can say is beware the things that bite in the night but whatever you do, don’t let them stop you from enjoying this amazing place! I know I won’t!

Until next time,

Jilly

P.S. If you think you’ve been bitten by a White Tailed Spider don’t try to be tough or just play it off as nothing. Since this started I’ve spoken to several people who have given accounts of friends who were bitten and sustained serious consequences including loss of fingers and limbs. They really aren’t anything to mess with as they can do some serious damage. See a doctor immediately.

Oh yes…if you’re wondering why Dan is not being eaten by the spiders….well, the doctor says it’s likely because he has hairy arms and legs so they just move on. Maybe I need to just stop shaving for a time. Hmmmm!