Category: Bay Of Islands

Jack Of All, Master Of None


Have you ever had one of “those” days? Of course you have. You’ll have one tomorrow or the next day or the day after that. I know because they seem to come with regularity for me. I believe I could be called an opportunistic pessimist. You know what I mean? I want everything to workout just fine and be one of those peaches and cream kind of a days. But, I know that there is a thing called reality with all the gremlins it utilizes to inflict my days with those little darts of, “Got You!” You know those things that keep your day from becoming totally perfect and instead produce utter chaos resulting in a ruined mess? Or perhaps some varied degree in between.

As a boat owner we rely on our vessel as our home, for travel, protection from the elements or even fun filled recreational bliss on a day to day basis. It would be great if everything we owned was everlasting and endured the dreaded march of time. One thing for sure, there are varying degrees of the time something will last. Tools for example…you can buy expensive tools or the Thrifty one use tool from the Shipwreck Tool Store. Your choice. It really doesn’t matter because your 10 mm socket is just waiting for the package to be opened before it can go missing. LOL

The gremlin filled case number for today is 54280 dot 15, Star Date something dash something else in the gamma sector of the left pant leg quadrant. Outboard Terminology! If you’re following the bouncing ball on your take home tablet readers, you will remember the fishing story from a few posts back where death rock almost consumed the crew of Dazzler sending us home to the promised land. Well, there was an article that involved fishing and a stubborn outboard motor that didn’t want to fire up and decided that it didn’t want to play nice anymore. Yep! That’s the one.

I finally got around to disassembling the carburetor for the umpteenth time looking for a speck of dirt that might be causing all our grief. Actually I stopped looking for that microscopic particle and now just blasted the whole damn thing with Carburetor cleaner each time hoping for better results. By the way, I’m still looking for my original 10 mm socket. Anymore I buy them by the egg carton style dozen so I don’t run out. They’ll be on sale every once in a while at Sears and Roebuck in the tool section of the Sunday paper. LOL

Another thing that frosts my fanny! Can someone please tell Yamaha to make a carburetor bowl gasket that is not sensitive to Ethanol in gasoline? Geese! When I remove the carburetor bowl to clean the jets, the special proprietary O ring gasket, if soaked from any ethanol in the gasoline distorts its shape by growing an extra millimeter here or there and CANNOT be reused. This requires you to have an extra Yamaha carburetor bowl O ring gasket.

In the first world country of New Zealand, a Yamaha made for the USA market doesn’t have the same gaskets as the same style motor made for the South Pacific market. Who knew? So! We had to order gaskets from Japan. Happiness arrives after about three weeks of being lost in the cargo hold of some 777 freight plane that has been grounded because their engines have developed a nasty habit of exploding while in flight. Okay, I’m all better now. Move along. Nothing more to see here!

As a side note and of great importance is the continued shipping saga of how our parcel was delivered to us in the Bay of Islands. Our good friend Allan Gray, owner of Wynn Fraser Paints in Whangarei, graciously picked up our parcel in Whangarei. He had some business in the Opua area and and brought our parcel along with him for us to pickup. The three new gaskets could have fit into an envelop, but they came packaged in a box that could have housed a new carburetor. We were able to spend a little time with Allan before he had to head south again. You see his new puppy “Wynn” was arriving at the Auckland Airport later that day. His new baby is a four month old Pyrenees Mountain dog. We are so grateful for friends like Allan.

Anyway, back to the outboard story. Each time I get done going through the carburetor everything seems to be working fine for a few hours of run time. Then, POW! Back to the workbench, AKA, aft cockpit seat, for more carburetor cleaner blasting. Stand back. By the way, I am now buying carburetor cleaner by the cellophane wrapped six pack. It is usually on the shelf next to the carton of 10 mm sockets.

The other day wasn’t anything special and it just happened to be one of those moments when Saturn, Jupiter, the Moon and Uranus seem to line up and inflict that oh so grateful ahh ha moment. The light shone down from the heavens and illuminated the answer to life’s most perplexing question. Yep! The outboard decided to take a dump again. You know stop working while on our way to shore. I grabbed the fuel line bulb to give it a squeeze and gas started to pour out from the hose connection to the front of the outboard. Ding, ding, ding! It was oh so clear now. Could it have been this simple all along? Quite possibly yes!

You see, the hose connection ends of the Yamaha fuel line system have a proprietary fitting that bayonet connects onto the fitting on the forward edge of the outboard. There is a spring loaded ball valve that is pushed against an O ring and is all held in place by some kind of plastic retainer doodad. The O ring has a dual purpose. First it is to keep gas from oozing out when the hose is not connected to the outboard. Secondly, and perhaps more importantly, the o ring prevents gas from leaking from the connection and air from being sucked into the fuel line.

It would appear that our fuel hose connection was not designed to last an indefinite period of time. To be somewhat fair, I should tell you that I have replaced this fitting before. I don’t recall it being that long ago. Regardless of the time that has elapsed since the last replacement, it wasn’t a set-it and forget-it part or replacement. Nope! As it turns out it might want to be one of those things you add to your spare parts list.

By the way, don’t forget to refill your parts supply when you take something out. As it would seem, I didn’t replace this fitting the last time I pulled it out of the spare parts stores and we had to acquire a new one from the local shop to get us going. We now have to remember not to forget to get one for the spare parts stores onboard. What was I talking about?

Remember, nothing lasts forever! Even if it says it comes with a lifetime guarantee. That just means the company won’t be available next week when you are hundreds of miles away on an island paradise trying to find which coconuts to rub together to make a new Yamaha fuel hose connection fitting thingy.

Until next time, check your parts stores and keep them well stocked. Don’t step in number two and sip that cold one while swaying in your hammock. Oh yeah, don’t take too long to finish that drink because the line holding up your hammock is deteriorating and you could blow out your flip flop. Remember, nothing is free or lasts forever in water world! LOL

Cheers!
Captain Dan

The Great BOI Shuffle

We love exploring BOI! (Bay of Islands). But, after a few fabulous days of fishing in Wairoa & Rangihoua Bays we had to head into Kerikeri so I could have my now famous “bites” analyzed by a skin specialist. They were getting substantially worse and Dan refused to continue the circumnavigation until we had them under control.

So, we stopped in at the Kerikeri Cruising Club for a few days. They have a nice little marina with clean showers. The only issue is that it’s a bit remote. There’s nothing in the area there. There’s no shops until you get to town and the one restaurant there is only open on Fridays and Sundays. We arrived on Monday and left on Wednesday.

Dan's Birthday Pic

It was Dan’s birthday on the day we awoke to head to Kerikeri so I had decorated the salon while he was sleeping and had his gifts waiting for him on the table when he came out in the morning. Nothing too cool….just a new shirt, some lollies and a DVD. He was a bit surprised that I was able to pull it off though. As a bonus I even made him a cheesecake with black cherries for dessert that night.

We headed out from the anchorage around 1000. It was a bit rainy and wet out but fortunately we didn’t have far to go…just a few miles. It was the Waitangi holiday so when we arrived the marina office was closed. We docked Dazzler in the assigned slip, took garbage in and had a nice warm shower. The rest of the afternoon we just chilled on Dazzler.

Kerikeri Cruising Club
Kerikeri Cruising Club Marina and Anchorage as see from the restaurant up the hill.

The following day we had arranged to have Kerikeri Taxis pick us up and drive us to the very small airport there to pick up a rental car. Getting from the marina into the airport was a $60 NZD cab ride. OUCH! But, the driver, Cameron, was a nice enough mate. He’d just recently started driving a cab. Before that he was a farmer. We enjoyed our chats with him and to be fair it is a pretty good distance from the marina to the airport so the price was reasonable.

The BOI Airport is so small that when we returned our rental car there was literally no one other than us inside! Apparently the workers only show up when planes are arriving or departing.

Rental car in hand we headed out to do some provisioning and then visit the doctor. Turns out that these are not bites at all….they are definitely some sort of skin infection. She called them Granuloma Lesions but honestly there are a million reasons you could get them so we will likely never know how or why they came to be.

Dr. Dowd said she thought I just had not taken the antibiotics long enough so she gave me more Trisul and put me on a month long course. I’m happy to report that two weeks later they are all healed!!! HOORAY! Of course I’m going to have the beautiful reddish purple scars on my arms and legs moving forward but I’ll just consider them permanent souvenirs from Kiwiland. What else can I do? It’s not like I thought I was going to win any beauty pageants anytime soon anyway.

From Kerikeri we headed back to Rangihoua Bay where Marsden Cross is located. We stayed there a day then were off to Patunui Bay. There was weather coming in and this little bay would offer some excellent protection. There’s absolutely nothing there to speak of and quite honestly it wasn’t even very scenic but sometimes you just have to take shelter.

From there it was back to Marsden Cross to wait out more weather. When you live on the water you have to move depending upon where the wind and swell is coming from. Sometimes this can be a daily event. It’s okay though. We enjoyed a couple of rainy days. Even broke out our set of Dazzler custom dominoes so I could kick Dan’s butt!!! I’m sure he will dispute that but you know, whatever. LOL  When the weather cleared we headed on to Waitata and finally into Russell. In two weeks we crisscrossed our way around BOI enjoying little anchorages and interesting scenery along the way.

Sharks, Sharks Everywhere In BOI!

Dazzler Waves

On our way into Marsden Cross the second time it was pretty nasty out with rain and rough seas. As we turned into the bay Dan said, “Look! A Shark!” There was a Bronze Whaler shark about a meter or so long swimming right beside the boat. A minute or two later we saw another then another and before we knew it we had a school of eight or ten of them swimming on either side of Dazzler. None of them were really big but there were enough that I knew I wasn’t going to be swimming in this bay.

Then on our way to Waitata a couple of days later I was on the bow filming and taking pics when I looked off the starboard side and low and behold I see a Hammerhead shark come swimming along. He was well over a meter long. What the??? If I ever even thought that I would want to swim in the cold waters of New Zealand this has certainly set that notion aside.

I’ve done a bit of research and they say the bays here in BOI are full of these Bronze Whaler sharks. They can grow up to 3 meters!!! No more bleeding the fish over the side of Sparkle either. Just what I want is some shark to come chomping down on a fish and end up taking out an inflatable tube. No, we will bleed them in the bucket moving forward.

And I just read where a little further south on the North Island some guys were out fishing on their tinny. That’s what they call the aluminum fishing boats here. These things are everywhere. Anyway, they hooked onto a Mako Shark and the thing leaped out of the water so far that it landed on the top of their boat smashing the windscreen and bending the bow rail before bouncing back off into the water. These guys, who are seasoned fishermen, said it was easily the biggest shark they’ve ever seen in these waters. One of the men estimated it to be about 4 meters long!!! Yes, I think I’ll just enjoy the water from above! Thank you. Besides…it’s too cold for this cold puss anyway. (To read about their experience here…click here)

Tsunami Warming

Tsunami Warning Sign
This sign was posted at the entrance to the Kerikeri Cruising Club that morning.

One other interesting item of note….One morning in Kerikeri I found myself wide awake at around 0300. Not wanting to keep Dan awake I crawled out of the bunk and sat in the salon playing on my iPad. We were tied to the inside of an end tie at the marina and all of the sudden I started feeling something odd happening with the boat.

I stepped out in the cockpit to try to access it. We were moving quite a bit side to side but there was no wind. There was just enough light from the docks reflecting on the black water for me to see lots of swirls and quite a bit of current. It was odd, but nothing so odd that I thought I should wake Dan. It was only our second day here so maybe this was normal. Maybe I had slept through it the prior morning. I decided I’d just keep an eye on it for the moment.

I went back below and continued reading the news and checking out what the friends and family were doing back home on Facebook. At about twenty till six I came across a post on one of the cruiser forums stating that there had been a 7.7 magnitude earthquake in New Caledonia which had resulted in a tsunami warning for much of the South Pacific….New Zealand’s north island included. Okay….this may be something I should wake Dan up to discuss.

Mind you this was a full hour and a half after I had noticed the strong currents. I’m not sure he was really happy to be woken up but the fact is…he’s the Captain and it’s his job to assess these things. I made him coffee while he read up on the events of the morning. Turns out we were just to expect some higher than normal tides and strong currents…. AHA! That’s what I witnessed earlier that morning. My first tsunami effects! In the end that’s about all we noticed. THANK YOU LORD!

Back to Russell

After a week or so of island hopping we headed back to Russell to work on provisioning and prepare for the next leg of our journey which is to head over the top of New Zealand and down the west side to Marlborough Sound. You have to really watch the weather closely and plan accordingly as the west side can be wild and woolly. And, there’s really no place to pull into if you get into bad weather. They say this trip is not for the faint at heart. But, it’s just a four day jaunt so why not? The reward will definitely be worth it.

While in Russell we visited a couple of museums. The Russell Museum and the Pompallier Museum (New Zealand’s oldest printery) where we took in a little of the area’s history. Russell was the original capitol of New Zealand in 1840. It has quite a history of missionaries, shipping, whaling and even some cannibalism. Of course the museums don’t talk much about that. I guess it’s not PC to talk about how the Māori used to eat their enemies.

If you ever make it to Russell we highly recommend the Bayside Restaurant & Bar. It’s a great little place located right on the water. We ate there five times in a week and tried something different each time. We were never disappointed. The owners are wonderful too. And, the views of the wharf and the bay are simply gorgeous. Make sure you tell them we sent you!

Dan Loading Sparkle on Deck

It seems our time in BOI has come to an end for now. We’re all provisioned up…Sparkle is on deck and our window of opportunity has arrived. Tomorrow we’ll be leaving the Bay of Islands and heading north. We may make a stop or two along the way or we may just continue on. Only the weather can determine that for us.

We will keep you posted along the way. 

Until next time,

Jilly & Dan

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