Category: September 2022

September 2022, Vanuatu

Zero Concept Of Time

Yesterday morning at 0800 we arrived quite safely in Port Resolution in the country of Vanuatu. The trip here was rather uneventful save a small issue with the roller furling for the jib. It is nothing we couldn’t deal with and certainly did not have to be fixed at sea. In fact, we will wait until we reach Port Vila to look at it further. Since we barely had enough wind to sail by and motor sailed or just plain motored most of the way it definitely was not an issue.

And, now we find ourselves in a primitive land where the people have zero concept of time. Now, don’t get me wrong. It’s not that this is a bad thing, it’s just that it is something a person needs to understand if they want to keep from being frustrated on a moment to moment basis.

Allow Me To Explain

You see, the Ni-Vanuatu people don’t really care about time. Why should they? They live in some of the most primitive and remote villages in the entire world. Their lives are truly as simple as it gets…they worry about food, water, shelter and family.

After all, it’s not like they jump off the mat in the morning and hit the ground running. No, they aren’t racing around fixing a hurried breakfast for the kids before jamming them into the gas guzzling SUV to drive them to school like their first world neighbors. They don’t have to worry about picking up the dry cleaning and stopping to get some froufrou, overpriced coffee before they punch a time clock. And they certainly aren’t dealing with some over anal boss who is giving them crap for getting stuck in a traffic jam and showing up three minutes late for a meeting.

No, their way of life is the most basic and primitive you can imagine. Concepts like time and racing the clock to get something done simply do not register in their brains. And to be honest, what’s wrong with that? I mean who wants to be hurried and stressed all the time anyway?

If you ask a Ni-Vanuatu how long it takes to say, hike up a mountain or to walk to a village they may say “not long” but what does that actually mean? Well, it could mean a few minutes, a few hours or all day. You see to them the time it takes is just that…whatever the time it takes. So it doesn’t matter if it takes a few minutes or all day. It is what it is and you can’t change it so why do you need to quantify it? Understanding this about their culture coming in can make a world of difference in how you handle it once you arrive. For me, a person with little patience, it could drive me crazy but since I know this going in…I think I’ll be fine. At least I think so anyway.

Our Arrival

Since we wanted to check into the country in Port Resolution we had to jump through a few more hoops than others. If you read our last article you know all about that. Anyhow, we had our permission to come here and we were excited about it.

When I woke up from my post watch nap yesterday we were less than six miles from the port. I was hoping to get my first glimpses of Mt. Yasur and the volcano but alas the clouds were in and there was nothing to see. Okay…not a big deal. I’ll see it in a day or so.

As we arrived in the anchorage at around 0800 we saw just one other boat. It’s a catamaran and as is usual for cats it was anchored in much shallower water leaving us more than enough room to pick whatever spot we wanted in this rather large and shallow bay. We located a good spot and began to run through our normal anchoring procedures. Dan on the bow running the winch and me at the helm. We’d been forewarned that while this anchorage does offer some great holding once you get the anchor set, it can be a bit tricky to get the anchor set in the first place. And, it was.

The first place we dropped we just could not get it to bite in for us so we pulled it up and moved to another spot. This time we thought we had the anchor in but as I began to back down on it we started to drag. I have a rule when setting the anchor. We have to maintain 0 knots SOG for at least twenty seconds with the engine in reverse at 2200 RPMs before I will say the anchor is set. If the speed kicks up during my count we start all over because once I say it’s set then it’s on me if we start dragging.

We did finally get the anchor set to my satisfaction and it was finally time, after four days, for us to shut down the engine and enjoy a little peace and quiet and, well, a couple of ice cold Fiji Golds. Ahhh….we made it….once again we cheated death.

As we sat in the cockpit enjoying our frosty rewards we began to survey the land around us. The scent of earthy jungle combined with a briny salt permeated the thick, humid air. On shore we could see but four tiny huts. One to our port stern sitting high upon a cliff, one about midway into the bay on the port side, one at the head of the bay and a final one sitting on a cliff overlooking the beach at the head of the bay. Yes, this appeared to be a most remote and desolate place.

Is Anyone Out There?

Once we were all settled Dan picked up the radio and called for Vanuatu Customs on VHF 16. No reply. He called again and again and got nothing. Next he tried Port Resolution Yacht Club. Nothing! So, here we were with no way to get checked in. Hmmmmm.

I looked at the clock and it was still just after 0900 and in fairness we had told them 1000 so maybe that’s why they weren’t answering. And, in order to get here the border officials have to travel 2-3 hours over gnarly, mountainous roads so I decided I needed to just be patient….a concept that is quite foreign for me.

When 1100 came around my patience was wearing and I felt I needed to do something. Even having lived this relaxed lifestyle for years now I still have a bit of that first world urgency running through my veins so I wasn’t content to just sit around waiting for something to happen. I felt the need to make something happen.

After all, it’s a Friday. If they don’t clear us in then we could be stuck sitting on the boat in the anchorage until Monday. THAT would not make Jilly a happy sailor. So, I set my fingers to work and started emailing everyone at Customs who had emailed me in the past few days. It took several emails back and forth before we were finally advised that they were leaving Lenakal to make the mountainous drive to Port Resolution.

By 1500 we finally had received a call from the Customs officer telling us they had arrived and were ready to complete the formalities of check in. We were asked to come ashore and meet them at the Port Resolution Yacht Club. (More on the PRYC later) What’s odd about this is that typically when you check into a country the officials board your vessel to be sure you are not a smuggler. Heck, depending upon the country they will even go through all of your lockers. But here they seem very trusting or maybe it had to do with the fact that it was raining at the time and they figured it was better for us to get wet than it was for them.

We dropped Sparkle in the water and in the misting rain we headed to shore. As we neared the shore we began to look for the proper landing spot. Finding the path up into the village was not as easy as one would expect as there is a lot of jungle there but we saw a line of Polynesian style dugout canoes on the beach and one power longboat anchored in the water so we knew we were in the right place.

After a few minutes of searching the shoreline I spotted it and quite frankly I wasn’t overly thrilled. You see the path from the beach was a narrow, muddy path that went practically straight up for close to 3 meters. The only way to traverse it was to climb it holding onto roots and whatever else looked to be securely fastened to the earth. “This will be fun, NOT!”

While Dan anchored the tender off the beach and then tied another line to a giant root for added security, I studied the muddy path to determine the best way to scale it without sliding back down. Fortunately Dan decided to take the lead and was there to assist me on the final, large step up to solid ground. I tried not to look back because I was really more afraid of the going down part than the going up. Oh well….I’ve got time to fall down later. For now it’s time to meet with the border agents.

With a gentle mist falling on the jungle canopy we made our way to what is affectionately known as the Port Resolution Yacht Club. We’ve been around enough to know that not every yacht club looks like the California Yacht Club in Los Angeles but this one, well, I mean, this is truly something. You know, something as in this is a yacht club????

It seems the folks here on Tanna Island have a completely different idea of what a yacht club is than I do. This yacht club is, well, a broken down shack with no doors, no windows, no lights and virtually no walls to speak of and the pungent scent of mold and dampness permeate the place. In fact the only part of it that even remotely resembles a yacht club are the courtesy flags from around the world that hang from the ceiling. Seems to me they need to up their dues so they can pay for a remodel. LOL

Oh but these are the joys of traveling and spending time in third world countries. You see things you’d never believe existed unless you saw them with your very own eyes.

Checking In

As we approached the yacht club we are greeted by the Customs and Biosecurity agents. They are both well dressed in their respective uniforms and they stand to greet us and shake our hands. The brother to the Customs agent was sitting on a wooden chair near the doorway and sitting on a raggedy old couch in the opposite corner is another man with his young son. Both the man and his son are very dark skinned but the boy has a blond, curly afro. Not something I’d have expected if I hadn’t read that many Ni-Vanuatu children have blond hair that will turn dark as they get older. Each of these men rise to shake our hands as well.

The agents lead us to the only table in the place. It’s a long wooden table that looks as if it’s been here a very, very long time. They’ve placed a blue and white striped cloth over it to make it appear a bit more formal. The Customs agent then asks us for our entry paperwork.

“What?” I’m thinking to myself. “I’ve emailed this package to you and a dozen other officials not just once, but four times.” As my mind is reeling in the thoughts of incompetency and a lack of professionalism he tells us that they were having issues with their printer and could not print them this morning. Okay, okay….even I have had technical issues in my day. I certainly can’t fault them for that.

So, now we will have to fill out all of the paperwork by hand. Dan and I each grab a pen and begin to fill in the blanks. It’s dark in here even though it’s 1500 in the afternoon. Of course it’s raining outside too but the lack of lighting is making it difficult to even see what we are filling out. Dan grabs his phone and uses the flashlight while I keep holding my forms up to the light to see what the question is then put it back down to write.

As I begin filling out the Yachts Master’s Certificate the Biosecurity agent stops me and asks if I am the Captain. I tell him I am not. I am just filling in the information for Dan to sign it. Then, of course, in my usual smart aleck way I say, “Really I just like to let him think he’s in charge.” It’s at this moment that I become abundantly aware that in Vanuatu I will need to watch my tongue as the Biosecurity agent looks at me as if to say, “If my woman talked like that I’d beat her into next week.”

You see here, in their world, the order of hierarchy is Chiefs, Elders, Village Men, Boys, PIGS and then women & girls. Yes…pigs are more highly revered than women here. Hard to believe in the year 2022 that this could be the case but alas it is just that. This in mind and seeing how my joke was received I’ve resolved myself that I will have to watch my tongue over the coming weeks. Good luck with that.

With the matter of the paperwork finished up it’s time to pay our fees. If you’ve ever traveled via yacht to a third world country you know that fee time is often an interesting and sometimes even a corrupt experience. It seems the fees that are requested are very often much different than what is shown on the government websites and Vanuatu appears to be no different. We’ve been asked to pay $5000 Vatu to Customs, $5000 Vatu to Biosecurity and $3000 Vatu for the fuel to cross the mountain and check us in at Port Resolution. In reality this comes to about $130 USD and is quite frankly pretty reasonable as border fees go but it is not what shows on the website.

The options are pay it or argue about it. Now, given the fact that the Ni-Vanuatu have been historically known as cannibals and that we’ve just traveled close to 500 NM to get here we quite easily decide to pay the fee and move on. After all, what’s $50 USD here or there to get to spend time in a primitive country where voodoo, black magic, penis sheaths and women with bones in their hair are here to entertain us? I mean really….all that has to be worth twice the pice right?

We’ve paid our fees, received our paperwork and then are notified that the Immigration agent didn’t feel like coming over the mountain so we will have to seek them out when we arrive in Port Vila in a week. After we leave the agents I comment to Dan that it almost sounds like Biden and Harris are running this border but then he points out that they demanded money and gave no promises of anything free. Point well taken.

We decide to take a little stroll through the village before heading back to Dazzler. WOW! Now this is primitive country. When comparing their village to that of those we saw in even the most remote areas of Fiji, the Fijians appear quite wealthy in contrast. The only buildings that are made of wood or concrete walls are the church, school and meeting house. We’re guessing that’s because those are the places they would go to hide from a cyclone.

The houses are huts that are raised about a half a meter above the ground. They have wooden floors and the walls appear to have been created with woven mats….mats that were woven from palm fronds then stitched together. The arched roofs are thatched palm fronds and very thick.

As we walk around we note that there are little “neighborhoods” for the lack of a better word. Each neighborhood has several huts. Without knowing for certain we believe that much like in Fiji each neighborhood represents one clan/family. This village appears to be quite large as there are lots of the little subdivided areas.

Everywhere we look there are chickens….big chickens, baby chicken and loud squawking roosters that strut around like they are the kings of their domain pushing the females and chicks one direction or the other. I guess the pecking order even in the chicken world here puts men above the women. I wonder where the roosters put the pig in their order of hierarchy.

Our walk leads us to a large field where we find a cricket match being played by the women of the village. At least it looks like a cricket match with then exception that they have two batters on at once. It turns out even one of the village men, Were (pronounced weary) had the same question about it. But, it really didn’t matter as they look like they were having a great time. There was even a spectator’s box filled with women and children in colorful costume cheering on the ladies. Around the field the were men sitting under the trees, in the grass and on concrete platforms that appeared to have once been the foundations of buildings.

The Pit Of Death

As we introduced ourselves to Stanley and Were we asked about the trip to the volcano. You see Tanna Island is home to Mt. Yasur and one of the world’s most accessible, active volcanoes. The main reason for coming here is to make the trip to the rim where we can look down into the burning pit of death and feel the power that is Mother Earth.

We’re advised that they take people up in the late afternoons as it’s the best time to see it. The cost is $8000 Vatu for the experience and $2500 Vatu for the ride to and from. For this we get to go through one of the villages to see primitive locals in their native costumes. And, we are relieved of the necessary and strenuous four hour hike up a steep, rocky trail to reach the top. Yep…$105 USD/pp to be taken there by truck seems a whole lot more attractive to this ol’ gal.

We make arrangements to follow the weather and let them know which day looks to be the best. With that we make the trek through the jungle back to the shore where Sparkle awaits to deliver us back to Dazzler for the evening.

Oh, and just in case you are curious….I did not fall down the steep muddy path getting back to the beach. At least not yet. Stay tuned for updates on the situation.

Until next time,

Jilly

2022, Biosecurity, Customs, Immigration, October 2022, September 2022, Vanuatu

Customs Chaos At Sea

For those of you who have never had the opportunity to travel from country to country via a private yacht you may be surprised at what is involved in dealing with Customs, Immigration and Biosecurity. Depending upon the country there can be mounds of paperwork that must be filed out with forms asking redundant questions and seeking the most intimate of details about your vessel. It can result in a form of “customs chaos” and when Customs waits until you’re at sea to respond it can be highly frustrating.

As the Best Mate on board the duties revolving around the paperwork for our entries and exits lie in my hands. It’s definitely not my favorite thing to do but then I’m quite certain servicing the Yanmar, cleaning the bottom of the boat or the myriad of other things Dan does aren’t his favorite things either so I bury my head in the computer, suss out all that is required and try to be sure everything is sorted long before it will ever be needed. After having done this in seven different countries with two more to be tackled in the coming days and months I don’t mind saying I’m becoming somewhat of an expert at it. Whatever that means.

Welcome To The Jungle

Here in the jungle of Customs, Immigration & Biosecurity paperwork I am highly efficient and well ordered. Why? Well firstly it makes our life a lot easier when we arrive or depart. When you have all your proverbial ducks in a row you make it simple for the officials to get you processed and underway. Border officials, as well all do, like things to be easy so they tend to give you less hassles if you’re properly prepared.

Most importantly, if you don’t do things the right way they have the options of refusing you entry or exit, fining you, jailing you and/or even confiscating your boat!! And let’s be honest…we’re often dealing with third world countries where corruption is everywhere and so the last thing I want to do is give them any possible excuse to avail themselves to any of those options.

Quite frankly these days with the internet and government websites it “should” be rather easy, even if it is a little cumbersome to get the paperwork filled out and returned to them. The fact is, it is NOT! Nope. Not even in the year 2022 can you find easy to locate, easy to use document packages that give you exact instructions on what you need to do. And, when you add the new Covid restrictions that may or may not require pre-departure and/or arrival RAT tests that can only be done within 24 hours of departure it becomes Customs chaos!!!

Can I Just Get A Fillable Form Please?

As someone who specialized in streamlining processes in my career I have a very hard time dealing with government agencies and their inability to do exactly that. My biggest pet peeve with all the border agencies around the world is not the mountains of forms they want filled out or even the redundant and/or invasive questions they ask. No, it’s the fact that it’s 2022 and these agencies provide forms online that are not able to be easily filled out.

I mean come on….how difficult is it to create a fillable PDF? And why can’t they make it dynamic so that when you answer the question of your boat’s name on page one it fills it out in every other section on the form where the boat name is required? I’m pretty certain there are about a thousand Youtube videos that could teach them how to do this. This isn’t rocket science people.

Some agencies have forms that are uploaded on their websites that are just Word documents with dashes for the space to enter your information. Apparently they are expecting you to print the document and fill it in. They don’t seem to understand that yachties tend to be very techie because we don’t have room for printers, reams of paper and extra ink cartridges.

Heck, even on Dazzler when we get a boat card from another yachtie we scan it into our files and toss the card. That probably sounds bad because we all spend good money having cards made to share but room is at a premium on a boat like ours.

I guess it just gets to me because creating a fillable PDF for your customers is a simple thing to do and in the end it makes your job easier because you aren’t trying to decipher their handwritten hieroglyphics. It seems maybe if I ever decide to go back to work I should set up a company creating these things for border agencies around the world. Or at least take their forms and fix them for the yachties. No wait….that sounds too much like work and I enjoy being retarded, I mean retired.

The Big Government Let Down

Before we even left New Zealand in May of this year I’d already downloaded the forms for entry and exit for Fiji, Vanuatu and Australia. I not only downloaded them but filled them out too. I filled in everything except the port arrival and departure information and the dates and times. And for those forms that were not user friendly PDF fillable forms, let’s just say…”they are now.” Sometimes I just can’t help myself.

This OCD Best Mate created little country folders on the laptop that contained packages of the forms just sitting there awaiting the last tiny bits of information to be added so they could fly through cyberspace to the appropriate border officials. Yes, I even patted myself on the back with pride as I boasted of my utter efficiency. “Oh yes…this year it will be different.” I thought to myself. “This year it will be easy.”

Oh how we delude ourselves into thinking the best could ever come from intercourse with a government agency. I’m guessing you know where I’m heading with that so I’ll just leave it here and let you fill in the blank………. “No matter how easy it sounds, sooner or later we’re going to get _________!”

Yes, we go into it feeling so positive and come out the other end feeling as if we’d been tried for murder, found guilty and been sentenced to life in a maximum security prison. We know we’re innocent but they always find a way to make us crazy enough to actually commit the crime. Well, folks. It’s even worse when you are at sea and don’t have all the tools available to communicate with the appropriate people.

I’ve Sent This Four Times Now

The very day Dan told me we had a weather window to leave Fiji I sent my exit paperwork to Fiji Customs, stopped by their office in Port Denarau and did everything I needed to do to secure our departure. All in all Fiji wasn’t so bad. There were a couple of hang ups like the fact that we’d paid for an extension to our visa but never actually got one so “technically” we had overstayed. But, the Immigration Officer assured us that as long as our paperwork was in and the fee was paid there would be no issue. Hmmmm…why do I feel like the fee was more important than the actual stamp saying we could stay????

We wanted to enter Vanuatu at Port Resolution on the east side island of Tanna for two reasons. One, it is at the southern end of the chain of islands making it easy to start there and work our way north to Efate an on to Espiritu Santo islands leaving us to check out of country in Luganville. The other reason is that on Tanna there is the famous Mt. Yasur volcano. It’s an active volcano and one of the few in the world that is fairly easy to access.

To enter at Port Resolution you need to have prior permission from Vanuatu Customs. If you don’t have it you are required to check in on the west side of the island at Lenakal or one of the other authorized ports on Efate or Espiritu Santo. Lenakal is another day’s sail for us and not necessarily one we wanted to make. And, once there we’d have to take a two hour, ride in the back of a truck across the mountainous dirt roads to reach the volcano. In Port Resolution you are very close and the anchorage has views of the fiery cone of death for your evening entertainment.

The entry paperwork for Vanuatu is, like most countries, detailed and unwieldy. They all want to know every tiny detail about you and your vessel from the colors on it to the materials used in its construction to just about every single piece of electronics on board. And it’s not just as easy as listing them, you have to have the make and model of each and for some countries, such as Australia, they actually want the serial number. This is where my OCD Captain and hubby comes in as he’s got all that in one place for me.

About a week before we’d even decided on a departure date I began emailing Vanuatu Customs to find out what was needed to get this approval. Much to my surprise I was given a pretty simple and quick answer. Yes we can check in at Port Resolution and they would forward us instructions once we’d submitted our paperwork. Well, where’s my Staples, “That was easy button?????

Oh wait…I keep forgetting…It’s never easy!

With our departure date in hand I completed the final details on the Inward Craft Report, Passenger Arrival Cards, Inter-Island Cruising Permit and the Maritime Declaration of Health. I combined all this, along with our US Boat Documentation, Vaccine Passports and one or two other documents into one easy to use PDF and emailed it to the appropriate email address. I guess I keep thinking if I make it easy for them they will eventually make it so for me. Alas, I’m such a dreamer.

The only thing they were missing to get full and final approval was the RAT test results which could not be done for five more days as they must be completed no more than 24 hours prior to our departure. But, the good news is they had everything else five days ahead of time. I gleefully thought, “That should be plenty of time to get them all sorted and get an answer back to us even if it is contingent upon the negative RAT test.”

With no answer from Customs I decided not to bother them as I assumed they were awaiting the RAT test results. So, on Sunday morning within moments of being declared “Vid Free” I emailed the certificates along with the original package, you know, just in case….over to the contacts I had at Vanuatu Customs. I had been told by them via email that the answer would come almost immediately.

Since all my pre-departure work was now behind me Dan & I spent our last afternoon enjoying Port Denarau. We had a shared plate of nachos while we imbibed on a couple of the best frozen Mojitos you’ll ever have at Cardo’s on the waterfront. We went back and relaxed on Dazzler and then later in the day caught up with our friends, Wilma & Kata, for drinks at Lulu’s Cafe. Then it was time for us to enjoy one farewell dinner at Sails. And oh what a treat that was…but we’ll save that for another time.

This Is Jilly On Dazzler, Can I Get An Answer Or At Least Buy A Vowel?

The following morning as we readied ourselves for departure I continued to check the email over and over for our approval or for anything at all from Vanuatu Customs. Nothing…nope…nada. I hastily sent an email asking if we were going to get an answer but still nothing. It was like they dropped off the face of the earth. So what do a couple of old salts do now? Well, we went ahead and checked out of country and started making our way toward Port Resolution. That’s what.

The worst case scenario is they’d tell us we couldn’t exit the boat or check in there and we’d have to go to another port. Either way we still have over 400 NM and four days to get there. We had some time to wait it out even if it was nagging at me that the issued had not yet been put to bed.

Unlike in the days of Captain’s Cook or Bligh today’s cruisers have the ability stay in constant contact with the outside world. We can be a thousand miles offshore and still be able to place a ship to shore call or send emails via satellite technology. Honestly I’m not sure my dear ol’ mama could handle us being out here if we couldn’t. She likes hearing from us daily while we’re at sea just so she knows we’re still afloat.

Of course with satellite technology there are definitely limits to what you can do. Sending emails via our IridiumGo is great but don’t try to send a photograph or a file unless you have nothing else to do for a bit. One, smallish, not so great resolution photograph can take ten to twenty minutes to get it off flying through cyberspace. This is exactly why we send all arrival documents before we leave our last port. We do it when we have “real” internet.

Now I’m sure there are some out there asking why we haven’t switched to Starlink as this is supposed to be “the thing” to use for internet for travelers. Well, we don’t think it’s quite ready to do what we need it to do and with the issues they are having over the RV service being used on yachts we’d like to just wait this out a little while. At least we know our IridiumGo gets the job done for us and in the event we need to reach someone out here we’d like that security.

So here we are hundreds of miles from shore and I’m now pestering the Border Officials for an answer. After all, I’m at sea with not much else to do but read and write so I am sending an email a day. After a couple of emails a nice lady named Ruth gets back to me saying we should have our approval the following morning. Excellent! All is well…….or, is it???

Yesterday morning comes and goes without an answer so I send another email. Each time I copy everyone I’ve had contact with there. Someone has to be able to get this done right? Well, finally late yesterday afternoon I see an email has come in from Ruth only this time it’s some huge file that goes into what is called “big mail”. In order for me to open items that land there I have to specifically ask for them to be downloaded as they can take a long, long, long time.

This particular file is over 2 million bytes! By the time it opens, if it doesn’t just shut the whole system down first, we will have decided we are simply too old to sail anymore and will have sold the boat and moved into some old folks home on land somewhere. No, this simply will not work.

So now it appears I have an answer but I have no way of knowing if it’s yes or no. The thing is they all know we are already at sea so they have to know that normal internet is not at play here. I mean this whole satellite email stuff didn’t just come on the market. And this is border control. They have dealt with this stuff since the moment it did come on the market.

Are you sensing my frustration yet????

I’ll wrap this up by telling you that it took a series of four more emails back and forth for us to finally get something in writing telling us we are approved to enter the country at Port Resolution. So much for my “it’s going to be so easy this year” plan. But, today I’ve been reading about the Ni-Vanuatu people in preparation for our arrival and I did learn one thing that will surely be helpful during our stay and it’s that time is of very little relevance in their culture. The way they see it a measurement of time will not change a thing so my wanting an answer expeditiously meant nothing to them. They knew an answer would come and that answer would be the same whether they sent it last week or next week. I think this adventure is going to be a test of my patience to be sure.

All I can say now is this volcano better be worth the frustration I’ve been through to get there. That and oh, “God, please grant me a huge dose of patience in the next 24 hours.”

Until next time….when we are safely anchor down at Port Resolution, Vanuatu…

Jilly