Month: April 2021

Wicked Storm On The Hook

Rated NFM (Not For Mom)

Preparing for travel along the east cape of North Island New Zealand is not to be taken lightly.  By all accounts you wait and pick your weather window and hope for the best.  We left Gisborne with what we believed was as good a plan as any.  All the squiggly lines on the weather prediction models lined up for our plans to scoot around the north end of East Cape by Thursday of this week.  All we had to do was pick a decent anchorage to be protected and wait out a fast moving low pressure system predicted to pass through sometime between Tuesday night and Wednesday morning.  We made our pick at Tolaga Bay and the storm on the hook ensued.  

Our first day out of Gisborne was uneventful as we only had 2-3 knots of true wind to get us north about 35 miles to Tolaga Bay.  There are about three small bays along the eastern shores of this passage area to anchor with the hopes of protection from the northerly blow of the low pressure.  We knew we’d see winds while on anchor from 15-30 knots.  The only wild card was what direction would the wind actually come from.  Once at Tolaga Bay we anchored near the famous wharf located at the southwest corner of the bay.

Storm on the hook
Tolaga Bay Wharf

The next day we moved to the northern edge of the bay for some planned protection from the mountains along the northern shore.  We anticipated the strong winds to arrive in the middle of the night.  Oh course, it always happens in the middle of the night.  It seemed like I was checking the weather models every couple of minutes to see if there were any changes.  But, like staring at the kettle waiting for it to boil, it never works.  

One of the weather models indicated that the winds might have a northeastern component to them.  As with each of the different weather models they all have their own algorithms and data that they use for their finished predictions.  Sometimes they are right and sometimes they are incorrect.  I, like many other navigators, have learned to rely on models that seem to have been accurate and reliable for predicting weather during our passages.  The model with the northeast component would make our night very long and uncomfortable.  I was hoping they were wrong.

Tolaga Bay

We expected the winds to start somewhere between 2100 hours and 0200 hours.  That’s a bit of a spread, but weather doesn’t seem to keep a schedule.  LOL  It always arrives when it arrives.  The winds started to build about 2130 hours and by 2200 hours we were seeing velocities in the mid twenties from the north northeast.  Not quite the direction we had hoped for.  Anything from the north and to the west would be just fine for us.  But the north northeast was going to require a saddle and some spurs to stay in the bunk.  

I guess I should mention our reason for being out of the marina and weathering a storm on the hook in the first place.  Well I’ll tell you Shoutie.  After this low pressure system moved through the area, we wanted to be in a position to move around the East Cape with winds in our favor.  Both for traveling northbound and for clearing the East Cape with little to no wind.  

You see, after the low passes there is a kind of vacuum in the weather that will form at the cape.  There will be little to no wind making it a lot easier to navigate and clear without much difficulty.  You could say we made a calculated move to enhance our position and reduce the number of miles needed to get to the cape as we would really have liked to pass around it during daylight hours.

Back To The Storm On The Hook

In preparation of the strong winds we put out an extra 50 feet of chain to provide a bit more catenary to the scope of our 200 feet of 5/16” anchor chain in 25 feet of water.  Like I said the winds started about 2100 hours.  By midnight we were seeing gust of 35 knots.  Dazzler was bucking fore and aft wilder than the four bit pony ride in front of WalMart.  Yea haw!  

Dazzler rose and fell as the wind driven seas were being forced into her bow.  The creaking and groaning of the anchor snubber bridle lines added an oh so eerie sound throughout Dazzler’s interior.  As the winds would build rapidly to 35 knots you could feel the shuddering of her mast vibrate through her hull and bulkheads.  Behold the power of the wind.  

I have to admit that I can’t help but be reminded of Jeff Foxworthy talking about Rednecks and describing what a tornado sounded like.  ”It was pandemonium.  I thought I was going to be killed or even worse.”  LOL  It wasn’t that bad Mom!  What are you doing reading this one anyway?  Didn’t you see the NFM rating at the beginning of the post?

Will it be two, four or even six more hours of being buffeted by this storm?  We hope for the best and expect the worst.  That way we aren’t too disappointed if it ends sooner or lasts longer than expected.  

As it progressed through its cycle the winds did clock back to the north allowing us more protection from the mountains along the north shore.  This made the sea state a little more comfortable.  But, only a little.  Thirty knots of wind is still thirty knots of wind.

Silver Lining

Of all the different creaks, groans, shakings and wild horse riding movements we experienced there was one thing that we were thankful for.  The wind was not a steady blow.  One minute it was gusting to 35 knots and a few minutes later it would fall off to 5 knots.  Back up to 25 then down again to 11 knots.  It was either full force or a light breeze.  That provided just enough time in between to pick things up, go to the head or relax for a moment.  

Rest assured Dazzler is a stout vessel and she is outfitted well and performed and protected us comfortably (ha ha ha) from the elements of this gusty low pressure system.  I would swear that there were times that it sounded like the bow was being ripped off of her.  But each and every trip I made forward during the evening to inspect the chaff protection on the bridle lines and the ground tackle everything was still in good order.  

Where Is The Rain?  

There was supposed to be some very heavy rain associated with this system.  Anywhere from 10-25mm of rain per hour.  It was predicted to be raining between 0200-0600 hours.  Be careful what you ask for.  The rain finally started falling about 0430 hours.  As it started pouring from the sky, the wind laid down into single digits.  As the hours clicked away daylight started to reveal the chunky sea and the cloudy skies.  The rain was still falling and the wind had crept back into the teens.  

Only a few more hours to ride out this storm, then we’ll be in the clear.  Given the choice of going through this low pressure at sea or at anchor, I’d choose being tied to a concrete marina berth.  LOL  Seriously, I think I’d rather have been at sea.  At least there you can hove to if enough seaway exists.  Being tied to the ground by an anchor and subject to the wrath of the sea over and over again was a bit trying on our nerves.  Will the anchor hold?  Will we have to weigh anchor in the middle of the night and storm and head to sea?  All are good questions that I constantly thought about durning the night.  

A better protected anchorage would have provided more shelter from the sea.  But, along our current coastline it just wasn’t available.  Perhaps we could have waited in the Gisborne Marina.  The main issue is weather doesn’t always act the way you want it to act.  The additional mileage to get to East Cape means we’d have arrived at night.  Perhaps the weather window to pass around East Cape would then have dissipated leaving us in a lurch there and subject to who knows what kind of weather upon our arrival.  Seriously though, although it was a restless night we knew we’d be better off upon our departure towards East Cape.

As it turns out pockets full of rainbows and sunshine graced us at about 1000 hours.  But, we had a new issue to deal with.  Although the onslaught of 20+ knot wind driven seas had subsided, an offshore 10 knot breeze had developed following after the 996 BAR low pressure system.  This wonderful breeze clearing the skies and making way for the high pressure system to move in was now keeping us pushed sideways to the swell.  

Anyone who has anchored in Chacala, Mexico knows what this means.  Oh that long powerful Pacific swell is wonderful unless it’s 2+ meters and rolling you beam to beam in an anchorage.  Like Chacala anchoring, we decided to deploy our stern anchor to help keep us pointed into the swell.  This stopped the beam to beam roll and allowed us a bit more comfortable position.

Oh But Wait, It Gets Better.  

I take a good look at the south side of our anchorage and it APPEARS to be calmer.  Let’s pull our anchors and move, shall we?  I hear, “Whatever!  Just make it stop!” so we start the drill of hoisting our stern anchor followed by our bow anchor.  Tada!  We are moving south to what had looked like a calmer patch of water.  Ha Ha Ha!  Upon our arrival, we see that the bay is filled with high energy long frequency 2+ meter swells.  “Well it looked calmer from the other side.”  

We then decided to head back to our space of salvation for last night.  Suddenly, as if God herself spoke from the heavens, “What if we just go to sea and leave now instead of tomorrow morning?”  I am now reminded of Bill Cosby having a discussion with God in his stage routine.  “Yes Lord?  Is that you?”  You mean now?  “Yes!  I can’t spend another night like that on the hook!” Hmmmmmm?  

Suddenly, satellites are linking up with NASA, accessing NOAA weather prediction sites and calls  are going out to Sponge Bob..  The World Wide Web is buzzing and there is smoke coming from my keyboard as I evaluate the Lord’s request.  The answer, drum roll please….Yes we can!

The interior and sails on Dazzler were not ready to shove off just yet.  Things needed to be readied.  Loose items secured.  Sails needed to prepared as well as several other items of housekeeping. 

You know, sometimes it’s better to fight the devil you know instead of the one you don’t.  Going to sea allows more manageability from a seagoing vessel than laying helpless to the buffeting of the sea while at anchor.  There are a pocketful of options at sea.  With a full coffee locker and several weeks of food stores, we could stay out for a few weeks.  LOL  I’m not sure I’d live through the lightening strikes from the Best Mate though.

The words fair weather sailing and New Zealand waters are not necessarily commonly used together at this time of year.  Take what you can, trim your sails, pick your path and then live it.  Because picturesque brochure sailing was last week.  If it were sunshine, rainbows and unicorn farts all the time, everyone would be doing it.    

Until next time from the Captains Deck, outside in the cockpit, safe travels and calm seas.

Captain Dan

Read more stories about our circumnavigation of North Island New Zealand. Click Here.

The First City Of The Sun

The final day of our two day passage was not quite as exquisite as the first but still a good day. We did experience a few hours of beating into the wind which is never comfortable or fun but knowing what it could have been like we were happy with it.

I was on watch as we reached the southern end of Poverty Bay. It was 0400 and out to the starboard side I could see what I thought was land. “That’s not right” I said to myself. “Land is supposed to be on the port side!” I checked the instruments again and everything looked right.

It was a bit foggy out and I saw a white light far off in the distance which was putting me even more on edge. At times like these you have to really trust your instruments. And, while I do, it still left me feeling a bit uneasy. I couldn’t wait for Dan to come up and take over but he still has another thirty minutes to sleep and I knew the instruments were true. It turns out what I was seeing was a low ridge of clouds on the water but at night when it’s foggy it looks just like land. When Dan awoke and took over I was more than relieved….time for me to take a little nap before we get to port.

The First City Of The Sun

We arrived in Gisborne in the early morning as the sun was rising. As we crossed Poverty Bay headed for the Turanganui River and Inner Harbour Marina we saw four huge ships sitting at anchor waiting to go into port to be loaded with timber. The harbor in Gisborne is so small that the channel in the river doesn’t even show up as water on the charts unless you zoom all the way in on them. It’s hard to imagine these 600+ foot ships being able to get in and out of the port.

On the way in we were greeted by a dozen or so big, beautiful dolphin. They were swimming and jumping and doing what dolphin do. It’s always such a wonderful way to enter a port. Just makes you feel so welcome.

Pulling into the port we passed two huge ships tied at the wharf. They were just a few hundred feet away and towered over us like aquatic skyscrapers. The channel is tight so I was on the bow watching for shallow water. It would have been nearly impossible to see in the murky green, swirling water but I was there ever faithfully on duty. To our left was a breakwater that separates the channel from the Turanganui River. It sort of looks like an off ramp on a freeway.

Before I know it we’re tied to the dock and enjoying our post passage libations. It always feels good to get into port after a couple of days at sea. The Inner Harbour Marina is a nice, small marina with just 61 slips. Most of the boats here are powerboats, charter boats and fishing boats. Seems this is more of a working marina than a place for cruisers. But, it looks very nice with sold docks and quality power stations etc…

A good wash down to get rid of the salt and it is time for us to get our own wash down so we can take a little post passage nap. The marina doesn’t have shower facilities but the Tatapouri Fishing Club which is right here offers temporary memberships for just $15 NZD. They have a huge restaurant, bar and nice shower facilities. After paying our fee and getting a brief introduction to the facilities from Yohanna, we shower and then head to the boat to hunker down for a bit.

Not long after we get comfortable I hear a knock on the side of Dazzler. It’s Sonny, the Harbour Master. Turns out he’s from the States and was alerted to our arrival by Daniel, the Dockmaster. Sonny and I have a great chat and he offers to assist us with anything we need while we’re here in Gisborne. This is truly a first. Never had a personal welcome from the Harbour Master before. Nice!

The town of Gisborne is known as the “The First City Of The Sun”. Why? Well, this is the eastern most city in the world and is the first city to see the sunrise each day. Its Māori name is “Tairawhiti” which means….the light shines on the water. It’s a small town of just over 37,000 people. Gisborne or Gizzy as some call her is also the site where Captain James Cook first landed in New Zealand in 1768.

A Gisborne Sunrise….First the world will see today!

Driving Up The Coast

Gizzy is well known for her vineyards and especially for her Chardonnays, Pinot Gris and Merlots. And, as we found out by taking a drive up the cost, this area has some of the most beautiful beaches we’ve seen in all of New Zealand. They are unspoiled beaches with few people on them and the waters are incredibly clear. They are absolutely breathtaking!

We visited one beach named Wainui Beach and found that this is a surfer’s paradise. While it wasn’t a particularly great day for surfing on the day we visited it is pretty obvious why surfers flock to the area with its clear water, shallow beaches and ocean swells. Just a couple of miles offshore the water is over 2000 feet deep. When ocean swells go from 2000 feet up to 20 feet over a short distance they will definitely produce some great wave action.

Our drive up the coast was simply stunning! From surf beaches to mountains, the views were beyond beautiful. We drove up to Tolaga Bay which is a place we may anchor at on our way north. This large bay has a 660 meter long wharf that extends from the southern beach far into the deeper waters of the bay. The wharf was originally built in 1929 at a cost of £60,000. This is equivalent to around $5 million in today’s money. 

Tolaga Wharf
Tolaga Wharf

It has rail tracks that were used to deliver meat, wood and livestock to waiting ships. In turn they would bring petrol, kegs of beer and other general merchandise back to shore. Interestingly enough this wharf was built to further the shipping industry in the area, however most of the goods transported were those that would expedite the building of roads in the area ultimately making the wharf unnecessary. Today it’s used merely for pedestrians to take a walk out onto the bay and enjoy the fabulous scenery.

The Gisborne area is definitely a wonderful and remote area. We’ve found our time here to be quite enjoyable. The people are AMAZING and so friendly! Just this evening we were walking back from the Fishing Club after showering and having a couple of beers and this man was walking down the dock.

He asked if we are yachties. We told him we are and then he asked if we’d like some fish. Well, duh! Steve runs a fishing boat here and they had just come back in from a particularly successful run. We followed him back to their boat and he handed us a huge chunk of Bluenose as a gift. We’d never even seen this man before and here he was giving us this beautiful chunk of fish!

piece of Bluenose

We didn’t know what a Bluenose was until we looked it up. Turns out this is an incredible tasting white fish with a firm texture. We ate some tonight and have plenty left for another meal tomorrow. It was brilliant to say the least.

Bluenose are found on the steep slopes in deep water. Apparently ours was caught at about 400 feet. This was such a kind gift from a complete stranger. We never cease to be amazed by the friendliness of the Kiwi people.

Bluenose…. This photo from Fishspecies.NZ

We’re especially grateful to have met up with Daniel and Sonny who have made us feel so welcome. Their amazing kindness and generosity have made us feel so special in their little piece of the world. Thanks Daniel and Sonny!

There are some great little restaurants around including four that sit on the water here at the marina. The Lone Star is an excellent steakhouse with a great filet. Another, called Rivers, is just a short walk away. It’s an Irish pub and serves the best Guinness Pie we’ve had in all of New Zealand. And, while it’s not really our thing, there are several vineyards in the area that offer wine tastings and meals too.

We only planned to stay here a few days but as always the weather is dictating we wait a bit longer. That’s okay though. We’re enjoying this wonderful little town and don’t mind hanging around.

Until next time,

Jilly