Month: January 2021

Preparing To Move On

We’ve spent quite a bit of time tied to the dock in the past year and quite frankly, it’s just not our brand of rum. No, we like moving around, meeting new people, seeing new things and having wonderful adventures. And while we do adore Whangarei and the amazing Kiwis we’ve come to know & love here, we are both really thirsting to get back to what it is we are meant to do….sailing. So, since it’s cyclone season in the islands and most of the borders are closed anyway we’ve decided to take off and circumnavigate New Zealand’s North Island. After all, we’ve seen a lot of New Zealand by land so now it’s time to check her out from the sea.

Depending upon who you ask, New Zealand has the highest number of boats per capita in the world. And the Bay of Islands is listed as one of the top seven best sailing grounds in the world. So, it only makes sense that we would take the time we have left here in New Zealand and head out to enjoy the great sailing and beauty she has to offer.

Departing Town Basin

With Dazzler’s stores fully provisioned with food and a variety of pirate spirits such a rum and beer, we cast off our lines and head down the river. It’s a perfect day to begin our journey with the sun shining brightly overhead and a ten knot breeze coming over the stern quarter! Dan gets on the radio and calls the bridge tender to open the Hatea River Bridge as Jilly stands on the bow taking in a few final views of the basin area. Jilly tears up a bit as we pass under the bridge. Yes, we’ll be back here but it will be a few months and this has sort of become like home to us.

Hatea River Bridge. It is supposed to resemble a Māori fish hook.

One final call to the bridge tender to thank her for the lift and we’re free! We’re finally free! Within a week or so we will be sailing the world class cruising grounds of the Bay of Islands. Then it’s up and over the top of New Zealand, down the west side and into Cook Strait where we will sail Marlborough Sound for a few weeks before coming up the eastern side of the North Island. What’s there? The Bay of Plenty, Coromandel Peninsula, White Island with it’s active volcano and the Great Barrier Island. Yes, there’s plenty of adventure ahead of us and we are both feeling excited and thrilled to be on our way.

Map of route around north island
We will head north and go up over the top then come down and across Cook Strait to the east side of the island. This is the recommended course by the Kiwis.

Before we can just take off we have to address the issue of Dazzler’s not so sparkly bottom. After spending a few warm weather months in the town basin we knew she was going to need a good washing down. You see here in New Zealand many marinas simply will not let you in if you cannot prove you have either cleaned the bottom within 30 days or put on new anti foul within 6 months. Yes, it’s quite a big deal here and the worst part is they won’t let you clean the bottom of your boat unless you are more than two miles offshore. Not sure about you but bouncing around in swells two miles offshore doesn’t sound like a really safe way to handle it to me. No, we’ll pay the price and let the professionals do it.

First Stop…Urquharts Bay

We couldn’t get an appointment at Marsden right away so we decided in the interest of getting the show on the road we would head out to Urquharts Bay at the mouth of the Hatea River to hang out for several days while we waited to do our haul, clean and splash. It’s not quite an hour from the bay to the marina and it’s a really great place to spend a little time with it’s beautiful bay and incredible scenery. The bay is large enough for plenty of boats without having to be on top of each other which is always nice. There’s some great hikes to be had at Breams Head Preserve onshore. And, one of Jilly’s favorite things is the port across the channel where the big ships come and go. It’s always fascinating watching the tugs pushing them around.

Plus there are fishing boats everywhere and you can dive for clams here. On the weekends at the point of Mount Lion the fishing boats are almost on top of each other. It reminds Jilly of the days of Tarpon fishing in Boca Grande, Florida. You could almost toss a beer to your neighbors they were so close. And, of course, with this many boats out here you have to believe there are fish right?

Where’s the Fish?

If you know us you know that we absolutely LOVE fishing. In Mexico we killed it! Dan even gave seminars to other cruisers about the best way to catch, filet and cook these tasty morsels from the sea. Unfortunately since we arrived in the South Pacific in 2018 these salty swimmers of the deep seem to elude us. Yes, we caught a few in the Marquesas and in 2019 we managed to pluck some of these slippery suckers from the waters of Fiji but nothing like we’re used to catching. So, you can imagine how excited Dan is to get back to fishing when he hears from the Kiwis that the Kingfish and Snapper are running and the catching is easy!

Dan & Jilly Fishing

The first afternoon we drop the dink in the water so we can go on an exploratory mission. No poles….just a ride around to check out the potential fishing grounds. We take off and head around the point to the other side of Mount Lion. Here there’s a small beach and anchorage but the weather has to be just right to anchor in Smuggler’s Bay which is why most yachties prefer Urquharts. All around the point the water is perfect for fishing. It’s deep and rocky which is what the pelagic fish like so we’re hopeful that the following day will yield a nice catch for dinner.

The following morning we head out while the waters are still calm and the sun is warm. It’s summertime here but I’ll tell you this…it still gets rather chilly when the sun isn’t directly on your skin. And with the breeze here you always have to have some cold weather clothes available. Anyway, Dan prepares the rods and reels while Jilly sets about preparing some liquid refreshments for the trip. Soon we have Sparkle loaded up and have a line in the water as we troll the area.

Fish On!

We’re not gone from Dazzler ten minutes when we run through the pass between the head and Frenchmans Island. We’ve got a hit! WOOHOO! Dan starts reeling it in and just about the time it gets a few feet from the boat the hook comes flying out of the water and over Jilly’s head. Darn fish spit the hook back at us. OK, that’s alright…at least we know we’re where the fish are biting right???

Or maybe not….A couple of hours of fishing around the point and back across Smuggler’s Bay leave us empty handed. After the first bite we got nothing. Not a single little nibble. Guess we’ll be eating filet tonight instead of fish. Well, guess it could be worse. Turns out we didn’t catch a fish the entire week we were here but nevertheless we certainly enjoyed our stay.

At the end of the week the time came to move over to Marsden Cove Marina to get Dazzler cleaned up. We enjoy the haul, clean and splash system they have in place. It’s absolutely no stress at all with the very cool hydraulic trailer they use. The entire process from lift to splash takes right around an hour too so it’s very efficient too. Adam, Remi and Mark make the job look so easy and Brent, Emma, Brian and Valerie in the office take excellent care of you as well.

Jilly with the yard guys from Marsden Cove Marina

We were a bit shocked when they hauled Dazzler to find over a third of her bottom covered in barnacles. Nothing sinister there but lots and lots of barnacles. We just put new anti foul on in March last year. When we hauled her in August it was just a slime coat but oh what a difference a couple of warm weather months make. And the thing is, we move her every seven to ten days to go to the pump out dock. Simply cannot imagine what some of those boats look like that never move. Anyway, the guys scraped her down and we were back in the water forthwith.

After one final night in the marina we are off. We have cast our lines from the dock and are making the four hour trip north to Tutukaka for a few nights. After that we’re Bay of Islands bound. Let the adventure begin!!!

Until next time,

Jilly & Dan

Entrance to Hatea River at Breams Head

Anchors Aweigh Or Not!

You know how you go through life thinking all your ducks are in a row.  Everything is working on all cylinders and your harmonic convergence has all of its feng shui maxed out.  That’s when you’ve told God your plans and you can hear the laughter coming as the last words of your plans slip past your lips.  Well, this has happened aboard Dazzler.  Having been tied alongside a concrete float in the marina was starting to feel like a permanent fixture with some roots starting to replace the dock lines.  Time to break the bondage, get off the dock and do what a boat was meant to do.  Move through the water and explore.  

Sunset at Urquharts Bay, New Zealand

So, that’s just what we did.  Call it a trial run of sorts.  We had a new mainsail resting atop the boom begging to be filled with the wind and harness its power of propulsion.  Oh to feel the movement of the water beneath the keel and the gentle rocking during the evenings while at anchor watching the last rays of light filter upward through the clouds along the horizon.  How could life be any better?  Do you hear the laughter from God yet?  Neither did we.  

Two days on the hook at Urquharts Bay and we decide to weigh anchor and head out of the mouth of the river, hoist the mainsail and let her fly.  Can you hear the laughter yet?  Wait for it….  With everything secure below and on deck we geared up.  Headsets, check.  Engine on, check.  Sail cover removed, check.  Here we go!  There I was on the bow using the 12 volt Lighthouse anchor windlass to retrieve the chain and anchor from its holding power on the sea floor.  A few minutes into the process a small puff of smoke rose from below deck followed by the all stop of the 12 volt mechanical beast.  “Well that can’t be a good thing.”  There’s still more than 100 feet of 5/16” chain and the 66 pound Lewmar anchor yet to be hoisted.  Where the hell is Grape Ape when you need him?  I now have the task of hoisting the remaining chain and anchor by a hand over hand technique that should be duplicated in gyms across the world to provide a real world experience to your daily workout.  

With the chain and anchor now secured onboard we set out to fly the sails to evaluate the new mainsail.  Its performance was nothing short of outstanding.  Its fit and its functionality was amazing.  Thank you Dave at Calibre Sails in Whangarei.  There is nothing like that first outing with your new wind engine.  We wished we could have kept going.  Alas the tide in the Whangarei River, the dock and the windlass issue was calling us back.  By late afternoon we were tied safely to the dock and I hit the ground running after a brief internet search for some local supplies needed to affect our windlass repairs.  Fortunately, back in 2009, before setting out away from Southern California I obtained a complete set of windlass seals and bearings to do an overhaul service of our windlass and only a few other parts would be needed.  Some odds and ends electrical components were needed.  Two days before Christmas isn’t the best time of year to search for components needed, but by noon on Christmas Eve I had everything I needed.  

Saturday after Christmas the job began.  What was I getting myself into?  I first had to remove a couple hundred feet of chain and anchor rode from the anchor locker.  Next was the removal of the 12 volt electric motor mounted below deck.  Once removed the top of the motor had visible grease/oil residue which meant that the lower seal of the windlass gearbox above had been leaking.  This meant that I would also have to disassemble the electric motor to clean all the oil from inside and hope that it would surge with life once the 12 volt power supply was added to the equation.  While in the anchor locker I found that the two main 12 volt terminal posts and lugs had some surface corrosion.  This was the first of several issues found that needed to be corrected.  I had a new deck switch to replace the existing switch that I had to repair and make work in Fiji about a year and a half ago.  While inspecting this switch and its connections, I discovered that the switch had given up the ghost and in fact needed replacing.  By the way, this switch is a high load style switch that I had direct wired to the windlass motor over 7 years ago eliminating the solenoid.  I know, I know.  What an idiot.  

I decided to install a new solenoid back into the system to remove the heavy 12 volt load through the foot switch and add a layer of added safety to the system.  Now it is time to get to the real work.  Pulling the windlass, tearing it apart and learning what I don’t know about the greasy innards.  

Captain Dan working on the windlass in the cockpit

Where do I begin.  I do have all the instructions from the Lighthouse Windlass manufacturer to follow.  I read through them a dozen times or so in attempt to somehow be blessed with some form of enlightenment.  At this point I would have given anything to have had a work bench available to me.  The windlass is machined out of a large block of stainless steel which is why it’s is SO heavy to muscle around while bending over on the dock.  Carefully following the directions, I dissected the beast trying to memorize where each part lived as it was removed from the 3 pounds of grease that was inserted the last time it was serviced.  Literally three pounds of grease had to be removed and cleaned from the gears and case.  I think I went through a kilo of rags, two rolls of paper towels and a half a box of nitrile gloves during this process.  Sure I could have done this on the hook in some exotic local but I’m glad I was on the dock and had access to the trash cans and supplies nearby.  

I’d like to interject here.  I like to think of myself as on top of a good maintenance schedule aboard Dazzler, but I have to admit that this job was something that kept being pushed down the To Do list as others might be guilty of as well.  As I came upon projects like this I swore to myself that I wouldn’t let this happen again.  I’ll be more diligent in the future by replacing seals here and there, cleaning electrical connections and the like to help prevent issues in the future.  My intentions are well meant but reality gets in the way thus pushing certain items down that all powerful To Do list.  Let’s face it I’m not a slave to the boat and there has to be some time for enjoyment, fishing, visiting with locals and sundowners.  Right?

Back to the grease bucket.  LOL  After the windlass was all taken apart and cleaned, I set it aside to get into the anchor locker to do some maintenance and electrical work.  I first cut off the old 2/0 cable lugs from the positive and negative cables and re-installed new cable lugs.  The terminal posts were removed and cleaned as well.  I replaced the foot switch and installed wiring to actuate the windlass solenoid.  Over the last voyage from Fiji, we noticed there had been a leak emanating from the top of the anchor locker bulkhead that separated the Vee berth, so I added a thick bead of caulking along the upper edge of the bulkhead in the anchor locker to prevent any further leaks.  I also replaced and re-bedded four large bolts that were the apparent source of the water intrusion into the anchor locker.

Next I decided to disassemble the 12 volt motor.  My philosophy regarding things that don’t work is simple.  If it doesn’t work before you tear it apart and then doesn’t work once you put it back together you haven’t lost anything but your time.  But!  If it does work again and provides many more years (or days, weeks or months) of service you have gained a level of confidence.  The disassembly went well.  After about a half a can of contact cleaner, brushing here and there and a pound of rags it looked clean enough to reassemble.  Before I added silicone to the the end caps, I decided to give the motor a test.  I hooked it up to a 12 volt power supply and bingo.  The motor surged both forward and reverse with gusto.  Wow!  Onto the next part of the project.

Dan injecting grease into windlass

Back to the windlass.  I had three 465 gram tubes of grease to insert into the gear case as I started the task of putting it all back together.  I only ran into a few glitches during the reassembly that required a trip to Donovan’s Engineering supply for some replacement bolts.  I also had to order some replacement seals for future repairs.  Hopefully they won’t be needed for many months from the completion of this service.  The reassembly went smooth.  Perhaps too smooth.  It was now time to finish this project and reinstall the windlass onto the foredeck.  Very straight forward install.  I bolted it down onto its deck plate and then went below deck to crawl into the anchor locker to install the 12 volt motor.  Check!  I finished all the electrical connections in the anchor locker.  The 250 amp fuse had blown during the windlass failure so it also needed to be replaced.  

Drum roll please…Time to push the foot switch and feel the power as it roars back to life.  Waiting, Waiting, Waiting.  A few small adjustments below deck to correct my oversight during the electrical connections.  Drum roll take two…Pushing the foot switch and the windlass lurched into operation.  Tada!  Wait a minute.  It is running backwards.  Okay.  Back to the anchor locker to change the connections of the solenoid.  Back to the windlass.  It’s now turning in the right direction, but something isn’t right.  Another setback by the mechanic, me that is.  I somehow flipped the shaft and main gear 180° during reassembly.  Apparently the one way rotation of the shaft slipped by my eagerness to reassemble the gearbox.  Damn!  This meant, removal of the motor and windlass, reopening the gearbox full of fresh grease, flipping the shaft 180°, reassemble, reinstall and reattaching the motor.  Let me tell you this…  With the precision of a racing pit crew, I had the windlass back in the cockpit being disassembled in less than an hour.  Within the next two hours it was reinstalled on the foredeck with the motor below deck reattached and now working properly.  

The only difficulty this shade tree mechanic experienced during the whole process was that the anchor locker seems to have shrunk some over the years.  The last time I was in there I remember there being more room between the motor and my belly.  I didn’t know fiberglass shrinks over time.  Good bit of information to know.  LOL

Until the next time from the shrunken anchor locker, may your wake be bountiful with fish, your soul free and your anchor windlass always rise to the occasion.  Cheers!

Captain Dan